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Everything posted by allweather

  1. Honestly, never really saw an Olsen before before coming here, and I agree that they're beautiful! And I like how your scoop fits into the picture. How long and how much money took this again? Looked so easy on the pictures but we all know how that goes.
  2. Still amazed how fast you guys proceed with the project. Awesome to see take shape.
  3. They don't though? Well, I suppose that really depends on battery size, regeneration(solar etc.) and other drains on board. The airtronic for example quotes 40W in use power needs at full heat(3800W), decreasing 10W per setting. And of course a relatively high starting load of 100W for the... five minutes of start up. Which isn't nothing, but actually quite good overall? I agree that stand alone has its own uses and applications, I am just not sure if the arguments outweigh the convenience of an integrated unit. Especially as those take outside air as fuel and vent emissions outsid
  4. Why not spring for an Airtronic (or equivalent) if you can afford it? Those are widely used and rated for boats as well. Can pump diesel from your regular tank and heats air with no fuss.
  5. Diesels don‘t?(never owned an inboard myself and all ships I crew on are either spotless or obviously never touched...) by the way, how much extra space do you have gained there(any sound proofing removed?) and are you using it for anything?
  6. Hahaha, good to know you have that itch a well! The white/red rope hanging around is a pilot line for the one later going to the bowsprit?
  7. Probably depends on distance, regular trips and some other stuff. But yes, I am a fan of going manual for a lot of stuff. (if it is still practical, thinking on adding electric winches for older people. Not that some of the older folks in my club can't winch up a sail, then I'd tell them to get a smaller boat, but to make outings a bit more easier) EP Carry looks like a nice option depending on distance and frequency of trips since it is already a complete system that is easy to remove. Otherwise I'd also argue for a basic trolling motor, especially if no planning is needed, and a separ
  8. My issue is that lashing can be fucked up. For myself that may not be as much of an issue, but family sails the boat on occasion too and I am not going to diagnose a lashing over the phone, unlikely as it may be. On the other hand it may be an option to do one/a strop as you mentioned to account for the differing length which would take out most of the guesswork I don't trust others with.(specifically equalizing strands) On that note I actually measured everything to take away the guess work. forestay: 8350 Main shrouds: 7960 lower shrouds: 4465 Too bad that the lowers are
  9. Not with that exact model, no. What is your intended use again? (you are aware of the wacky horsepower labels when it comes to electrics, right? Aka the linked motor is rated for 2,2kW,)
  10. I have no experience with it(do plan to have the rudder done this winter and see how it goes on my slow boat) but would like to piggyback in case anyone has used one of the antifouling foils like McGlide? Sounds very promising as far as direct impact goes as nothing degrades/leeches into the water and gets removed as a whole while on the dry when it comes to replacing. Pricy though.
  11. Wait, it is? I'm in no hurry to change my own(need to get sailing more before doing anything like that), but had some concerns about the wings themselves going a little soft and wondered about potential replacements... But as said, with how far too rarely I've been on the water lately that isn't even on the list, I am only curious how it would be done. Just bolt through where the current slide is mounted?(can't recall from the last time I had removed everything what kind of bolts are in with the old style wings tracks)
  12. Hahaha, well, I just replaced all the critical bits as far as I know and its fine now. So no new mast for this boat in the foreseeable future(hopefully). But if something more actually materializes I'll probably just take off everything that's still good and buy a new mast, fittings and all. Good thing is that mainsailtrack is part of the profile and gooseneck outside/easy to inspect. Same for the mast top. With all other parts replaced over the last... two years now only the mast itself could fail and in that case? Shucks, I can live with that.
  13. Look what I found in my mast today, I wasn't even looking for it! I do check for cracks and the like fairly regularly and do replace backing plates as required. This one though? Looked perfectly fine with no damage from the outside.(the last three plates I replaced had cracking around the hole) I removed it for an unrelated reason this weekend only to pull out a bent piece of metal barely still held together. Can't see that from the outside short of using an endoscopic camera or some very clever mirror and penlight attachment, maybe. Well, everything is new now and it was the
  14. Arguably since such examples probably wouldn't leave their couch otherwise... or the comfy car seat, so riding a bicycle, even assisted one, is marginally more engaging... Though whenever one blasts past me uphill I may be a bit peeved on my roadbike. Actually I wouldn't care, if not for them then slowing to a crawl and blocking the cycle path come next corner/intersection. To be fair to my Suzuki four stroke, it ran basically without issue for the years(I don't know 5-6? of using it once a week for months and then a week through). I did have issues last year that need to be diagn
  15. Isn‘t that just because dyneema is white, then colored and that‘s what is getting sun bleached? Whereas UV as I understand it becomes visible through the rope getting really fuzzy.
  16. Go me, missing the very visible link you had already posted... Thank you for pointing that out and relinking. Interesting that I do find the two grades of fabrics as you've mentioned, but getting the greater strength one in the right weight is going to take some more searching here. Anyway, thanks for the tech talk and now back to boat building.
  17. This is what I meant, I couldn‘t quite match your numbers to those I had found for other fabrics. Specifically since tensile strength and stiffness are both measured in Pascal, and then there are the numbers for finished laminate at given fiber/epoxy ratio. Anyway, in that case I‘ll do some specific hunting to find basalt with the strength relative carbon you quoted now that I better know which you meant. As far as stiffness goes I‘ve only seen 10-20% or so greater than eglass and not near carbon‘s over twice as stiff as either! So that was where my initial confusion came from. (Edi
  18. Looking at some data sheets I realized I have no idea how to read them... When you say 480 MPa, is that tensile strength or something else?
  19. Thank you for your insight Julian, I had not run the numbers for the foam and missed why you'd be fine with slightly lower vacuum. Makes sense now that you put it in relation with what you have(imperial unit wizardry or not) I need to see if that epoxy is available in my area, or something equivalent to it.(well, and just check the jugs I have right now) Last project I messed up ventilation and was somewhat miserable the next day... Also, always like to hear about any tricks when it comes to reduce and reuse, that is the one thing about bagging/infusion that isn't quite as neat as
  20. It kind of really is compared to glass, personally I always use the guidelines for weight fiber/epoxy and weigh out that much. Usually works for myself, otherwise I'd probably end up using way too much epoxy.
  21. I did wonder how long it took considering how sped up the video was! Did you have issues getting the bag absolutely tight, or what was the issue with not getting as high vacuum pressure? Was pretty great to watch for a noob, so thank you for that. Also nice to read about basalt since I found a few online sellers in my area that are not that much more expensive than glas and it looks interesting!
  22. Well, no expert but I am curious if you have a vacuum pump available or some other method to press the panels? As far as I understand it(and from the sandwich panels I diy) there is no need for chopped strand anywhere in your build. Peel ply, what kind of surface finish are you looking for? In other words, if you still need to paint and require a keyed up surface, then yes.
  23. Thank you for that! SK99 in 5mm still leaves me above the break load of the rigging screws if done like that. 6mm would be severe overkill but maybe going for that with SK78 instead. We'll see, with which I mean I need to check how big the holes in the spreader tips are.
  24. Yes, that is the chart I had seen as well. And that is exactly the intent as you put it, six dock lines take up far more space(and weight) than some dyneema that also can be used for all kinds of things in a pinch. Personally I have no issue carrying a spool and splice as needed, but the boat is also used by other family members on occasion who do not have the skills/confidence for that. Hence the idea to have some premade and labeled ones around.
  25. Had to double check myself here since I do not know stretch/load characteristics off the top of my head. I knew to to size so that creep is within an acceptable range(6mm would be ideal, 5mm somewhat lower bound but since its not a long term solution...). I was not aware that stretch characteristics differ significantly when using same diameter. Going by the one table(rigging company this or that), for replacing 4mm wire 5-6mm dyneema is recommended which fits. Do you happen to have better tables at hand?
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