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Posts posted by allweather

  1. 12 hours ago, Max Rockatansky said:

    Rather than possibly compromising strength, just use a lashing to terminate, which is then adjustable. No?

    I'd need to pay attention to equalizing the lashing correctly and have the right dead eyes, but an entirely viable option yes. About compromising strength otherwise, if it is within acceptable margin(5mm dyneema being significantly stronger than 4mm wire), I could easily live with that, hence the question.

    Personally I'd prefer not having to splice anything at all.(easy method would be to simply taper the very long bury and simply pull out to the right length as needed before stitching. But then I'd also have to get it right which would require more prep than I want to sink into a measure unlikely to see use)

    6 hours ago, European Bloke said:

    The forestay and shroud are a very different length.

    Actually not that much, I'd have to put them side by side when the opportunity arises, but from the top of my head its less than a meter for my boat.

    6 hours ago, European Bloke said:

    Do they have the same top fittings? How long will it take the spreader to destroy a bit of D12?

    Yep, all use the same t-terminals(eye t-terminals available, but super expensive if original Selden. Cheaper not "perfect" fit on the market), so that is not an issue.
    About the spreaders, I missed the opportunity to smoothly clean up the tips, but checked that I can fit pet or heatshrink tubing for chafe protection. Not ideal, but long lasting enough to finish vacation with some checks to control for potential chafe.

    2 hours ago, mgs said:

    Could just carry a length of 4mm wire for the longest shroud/stay.

    Not an option. While I do already carry a wire cutter in order to be able cut the shrouds in case the mast ever comes down, stowing the extra wire is way too cumbersome and heavier than dyneema for my tastes. Plus I already carry the fittings, at that point I can go back to finding a local company that can make me some temporary wire but the idea was to not have to bother with any of that.

    Dropping the mast and switching is a 20min affair once a little practiced and with two people. Dyneema would give me the opportunity to do so wherever with little weight penalty...

    But I suppose I'll just keep carrying the t-terminal with an eye and a roll of dyneema to splice to length as usual instead of premaking them.

  2. Long story short, what is strength decrease to dyneema if I don‘t bury the tail as usual, tapered and all, but have it exit as done with adjustable eyes?

    Tried to find an answer but it was all about bend radius and splice length which I mostly already knew. Though still not sure if 24diameter bury is applicable anywhere anymore...

    Asking since I want to carry some easy to store and reasonably light weight emergency shrouds made from 5mm dyneema in case the 4mm 1x19 wire gets damaged and I notice before the mast comes down. Something to keep sailing with no rigger at hand but not having to worry. 

    Since I still want to carry as little as possible, And thought to simply use an adjustable eye so that main shrouds and forestay can be covered by the same prepared dyneema. Plus less worry to get the length/lashing right if I can just adjust the eye length and use a rigging screw.


  3. 1 hour ago, Pertsa said:

    I still have no idea how to tie rope to it.

    Most I see clipping the bow lines with a snap shackle. Though that works less well if one needs to adjust length from the boat and best for the primary dock where it's always the same...

    1 hour ago, Pertsa said:

    He said that now they are almost dry.

    Isn't that the truth? "Almost" dry...
    I have been using similar(foamed rubber tape) to kind of reasonable success, but hatches are old and wood, meaning I can't get enough "down force" without worrying about the fitting in the relatively soft wood...

    Really thinking about building entirely new hatches because bone dry is ultimately the way to go. Going to have to figure out how to make it work though, especially since the Artekno ones end up with water standing at the lower seal when heeled.

  4. :lol: Haha, yes! Isn‘t it a single eye now or nothing even?(could have sworn I saw someone tie to the forestay...)

    Race boats are a different kind of breed, though I believe the cockpit locker sealing has not been solved to satisfaction for older boats?

    Looking to redo mine completely but haven‘t settled yet. Would be easier if I knew where to source the right gasket.

  5. Now I see what you mean, we should be fine then.(yep, used some bigger twine. Frankly overkill but has worked for years)

    You're right on the power cord run forward from the lazarette where I have stashed... 15 or so meters which is kind of heavy but useful.

    The log is the reason why the pic even exist. Sometimes, regular enough, the wood carriers lose some and eventually they tend to find their way through the bay.
    Which I honestly try not to think about too much. Luckily our local fishermen get rewards for bringing those in and that limits some risk. Also not a container...

    In this case it was just drifting(pretty harmlessly) between two neighbours' boats and I got it out of the way.

  6. Uh... Bull? What difference does it make?

    Also, I am more concerned about your knotted bow lines. Those left some scratches in my gelcoat/paint after some time of the boat periodically pulling on each bowline and jerking the knot across the deck.

    Of course your dock is probably less dusty and possibly has less movement than mine, but stuck out to me.

    This is how mine looks, but no guaranty that it actually is as original...



  7. Makes sense to me(picture of wear pending), the boat is now over thirty years old and I suspect the bearing has not been replaced in its lifetime.

    You agree then on sanding the rudder as well... That was the part I was concerned about the most since I knew it was standard to open the skeg, but wanted to avoid unnecessary work on the blade itself. Careful sanding it is...

    Also thanks for the illustration, that is helpful.


  8. Finally dropped my rudder this year to figure out where the play in the system is coming from. Also spotted some osmosis and figured I'll deal with both at the same time.

    Now the acetal(or something like that) lower hull bearing is 25,5mm to the 25mm shaft and not something that needs to be replaced, I think?

    However the bearing bolted to the skeg that the rudder rests on has significant play(see pictures). 4mm or so and was noticable even while the rudder was mounted.

    Already contacted a local shipyard for help in regards to fixing that one, but would like to hear some second opinions as well so that I know what the guy is talking about when we discuss what is to be done.
    I haven't figured out how to remove the lower bearing yet and wanted to ask if there is some trick to do so without essentially cutting off part of the rudder? Felt disconcerting enough to take drill and saw to the skeg to get at the bolts...



  9. 12 hours ago, longy said:

    It's not there to spread loads, (altho carrying the vertical loads out to the hull is good) but to provide a level spot for all the bolts to land on

    Why then use carbon here? Wouldn't G10 not be sufficient and quite a bit cheaper?
    Not a big deal, but sometimes I wonder with how often I see carbon in non structural applications.

  10. 2 hours ago, nolatom said:

    This by the way is very easy if Oscar is a life cushion and not a human being ;-)

    How quick does it drift though? I once had someone throw a blow-up cushion overboard and shout for an on the spot man over board drill(not pre planned at all, which kind of is a cool idea to be honest!)

    Only, unlike a person it took off over the fairly flat water but still 10 or so knots of wind. Actually catching the thing with a fairly slow boat was the bigger challenge.

    Uh, doesn't have anything to do with actual rescue. Anecdote simply came up when you mentioned a cushion. And someday I do want to try how it would be with one of those heavy dolls for simulation.

    And share the idea to actually spring such surprise drills on people. When it happened to me I did not react as one should at all. Simply processing between relaxing at most benign conditions to realizing what is going on took what felt like forever. Showed me how someone could get lost without anyone noticing for seconds and longer.

  11. 5 minutes ago, Roy166808 said:

    No clue what caps are but im sure i'll figure it out.

    Cap shrouds are the ones going to the top of the mast. Then you have main ones running through the spreaders and the lowers(sometimes diagonals I think).

    Also, you did have a look at the old "49er owner's manual?" http://www.49er.org.uk/cms/upload_area/downloads/49er-owner-manual.pdf
    They have a basic setup for the rig...

    Really wished that the class association published something similar for the new masts and generally updated setup. Knew more than one guy that struggled with setting up an older boat when they didn't have personal contact to the race circuit. Sure, they(old guys often enough) won't go for any medals, but still sometimes feels like a missed second hand market opportunity...

    • Like 1
  12. Really looks like it. Makes sense with hull speed around 6-7kn.

    All that „extra“ power should come in handy for a windier day. Eager to hear about that if you get into the situation, Bull. Not really expecting any surprises though. 

  13. 1 minute ago, Bull City said:

    I wish the relationship with AHM had not gotten sour over this.

    Yes, that is probably the worst thing to take away. Passable dealers are so difficult to find, yet all but necessary for some things because they know the guy who can weld together your two halves of a tiller on a Saturday 2100 so you can compete on Sunday...

    Or just help identify a part number and how to get a replacement. I know that those are the reasons I still go to them.

  14. 11 hours ago, Bull City said:

    One thing I will add is that AHM, particularly Sally, seem to spend more time and effort writing lengthy emails with excuses for not doing something, than it would take to just do it.

    Wow you sound unhappy! Understandably so.

    Bit painful since I have been on both ends of this equation before. Especially when acting as a middleman when one really does not know all that much about product and is only there for accounting purposes or similar.

    Doesn't make what sounds an organizational problem better. (seriously, the amount of times I met people, bosses even, that were always busy because their skill to efficiently organize once their business grew beyond them is surprisingly large.)

    One of the reasons I tend to try going at things on my own so often. At least then I only have to blame my own stupidity.

  15. 10 hours ago, bilbobaggins said:

    What d'you guys reckon to this

    What's it supposed to do?


    Bit of a highjack but I'd like to ask here instead of opening a new thread for a five minute question...

    Building a cascade for an under deck aft stay adjuster and there is very little space for the first low friction ring, About 350mm and depending on how much I am willing to compromise I do need 150-250mm adjustment at least. While using 5mm dyneema (due to fitting the through hole in the deck perfectly) with a 250mm(50x) bury that leaves me with too little distance of not thickened rope to get to work.

    My idea was to luggage tag around the low friction ring(a few times) to essentially wind the thicker spliced part around the ring. Which would then give me enough adjustment overall.
    My concern was what impact the relatively sharp bend of the luggage tag would have in strength? Mind, it is massively oversized since I chose diameter for fit and not for strength. The actual wire is just 3mm stainless. But I'd still like to know what I am looking at in strength reduction. If only to know for any other time I may want to use the same method and end up with less of a margin of error.

  16. At this point I have to wonder about my decision not to fully replace the mast yet...

    in other news, boat is out of the water and more work is to be done! Pulled off the mast foot with some difficulty because two sheaves are  beyond broken. Now with the damage in full sight its even worse than expected. 

    I was going to replace them anyway, but getting the pins/bolts out is... a work in progress. Drilling and cutting disks in use. 


  17. To be fair,  I don't know how it goes with the epropulsion ones specifically.
    Yet for some tear down of others I have seen it can be as simple as removing the prop, unscrewing two bolts and popping off an end plate. Overall not exactly no work, but also an hour or two on the dry...

    I also haven't heard of ingress related failures yet. Would be interesting if your supplier had some information on regularity of checks and maintenance, Bull. Everything I ever heard was that these seals last for years, yet that is anecdotal at best.

  18. 23 hours ago, weightless said:

    I expect the seals will be a point of failure. They're wear items. Hard to inspect, too.

    Probably, yes. Parts are available and repairs look doable according to youtube.
    But as you said, hard to inspect casually and who wants to take everything apart regularly?

    Though, is that any different for diesel shafts? Mostly asking for my own curiousity since I don't have a boat like that and always gave the petrol outboard to maintenance... And wondering if that is a similar case to the range anxiety a lot of people in my area profess to.

    With which I mean how suddenly everyone and their grandma is a broker or on call specialist that needs to drive a thousand kilometers a day. And back. Uphill and upwind too. ;) When the average statistical daily driving distance is around 30km.

    • Like 1
  19. 1 hour ago, floater said:

    But I guess the pov I am adopting here is when out shopping used boats, and it has an electric drive aboard,

    I had not considered that angle yet.
    Sure, anecdotal evidence shows that electronics that haven't died in a few years of previous use won't die in the future unless there is sudden water ingress. But I wouldn't know how to grade everything else about them.
    I know brushless motors have a very, very long lifespan compared to old electric motors. So much so that sometimes the bearings are stated as the item that wears out and eventually "breaks" the motor.

    No idea how to assess that though. Conveniently electric motors themselves are cheap, comparatively speaking, and much more easily shipped. As a consolation if one buys used.
    Reminds me of the Farr30 a friend of mine got. Bought it together with someone that is pretty well versed around diesels, but didn't take it apart. Few months later the piston failed. Bought a new engine...

    1 hour ago, floater said:

    From the information given about the cycles available on the batteries

    That is a really pertinent point. There are some ways to measure how good batteries still are.(total discharge, wattage/internal resistance if you have gear) Takes time though. Often rule of thumb is to simply devalue them quite a bit if you buy used and live with what you get. If you can't check before.

    Since you can never know if a previous user abused them.(read drained until empty to dead. Which does have more of an impact) Only try to guesstimate, at least as far as my knowledge goes(pro's are likely different), what you currently have via ability to deliver current and overall watthours.

  20. 56 minutes ago, floater said:

     I wonder though, if these electric drives will have the expected lifespan of a typical knotmeter - at best.

    Well, at least with the trolling motor we know the fishing enthusiasts get a lot of mileage out of them. And those are thousands of testers. And reputable brands like MinnKota sells you spare parts for every bit and piece just like Suzuki does. So repairability can be surprisingly high.

    Fixing if its electronics is beyond a layman to be sure. But for the dumb units it seems to happen rarely. Software issues with more intelligent epropulsion and torquedo is a known thing though.(arguably rare, I have little experience but few people nowadays I know of that have issues. As an anecdote)

  21. Convenient thread for gas related questions?
    Was guest on a small boat with a gas outboard, tank somewhere in the lazarette.

    Left my foul weather gear in the cockpit locker for a day or two. That is connected to the lazarette and not really vented. Hence it did take on that nice gasoline smell until aired out...

    Thing is that all the ironed on seals over the stitching on the inside peeled off within days after. Any chance of a connection there? Meaning if the adhesive could be susceptible to gasoline fumes? I have no experience in that regard.

  22. Well, then you may have used a surprising number of watts for motoring as well. Who knows. Will be interesting to see what the hourly numbers are once you're out on the water with a half full battery.

    About battery use guidance. Not necessarily unexpected with the E80. They quote 80%cycles (10%-90% charge levels) at around 3000.

    Which matches general knowledge on the LiFePo4 batteries. By far not as sensitive as some other lithium chemistries but still store best at 50% charge. In practice the wear is so little that you generally don't have to care.

    Going from 20%-80% can increase the numbers of cycles by quite a bit. 5000 and more is not unusual. Running them flat still gets you a thousand or more cycles on most. And important to remember that they don't usually suffer critical existence failure but simply lose capacity and wattage. Now imagine three thousand cycles. That is how many years of sailing already? Even with a 20%(extreme) decrease in range it still should work wonderfully.

    • Like 1
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