Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by allweather

  1. Makes me wonder though. I know my mom went through some foul weather gear suspiciously fast. What's the resistance of waterproofing? Probably depending on specifics I suppose. Has anyone tested this? Apparently goretex itself is resistant to gasoline...
  2. Convenient thread for gas related questions? Was guest on a small boat with a gas outboard, tank somewhere in the lazarette. Left my foul weather gear in the cockpit locker for a day or two. That is connected to the lazarette and not really vented. Hence it did take on that nice gasoline smell until aired out... Thing is that all the ironed on seals over the stitching on the inside peeled off within days after. Any chance of a connection there? Meaning if the adhesive could be susceptible to gasoline fumes? I have no experience in that regard.
  3. Well, then you may have used a surprising number of watts for motoring as well. Who knows. Will be interesting to see what the hourly numbers are once you're out on the water with a half full battery. About battery use guidance. Not necessarily unexpected with the E80. They quote 80%cycles (10%-90% charge levels) at around 3000. Which matches general knowledge on the LiFePo4 batteries. By far not as sensitive as some other lithium chemistries but still store best at 50% charge. In practice the wear is so little that you generally don't have to care. Going from 20%-80% can increa
  4. I feel presumptious asking for clarification... How much did you motor in and out? Yeah, I agree with TwoLegged. Sounds like the charger not pouring power into a basically full battery regardless of how much you generate. Besides the natural charge acceptance at the upper end. Yeah, I don't even bother attaching my battery to the grid unless I am below 50% or plan for a long passage.
  5. Alright then. Looking how you don't need high speed and the boat is about a third and a bit of the h-boat let me draw the comparison to the smaller trolling motor I use compared to Bull's much more capable pod. My datasheet is for 120lbs thrust and uses about 1,2kW to drive the h-boat at 4kn and can do so four or five hours with my 24V 230Ah lifepo4 battery. Basically over fifteen miles of range. You should be able to use an off the shelf pod to great effect(very small storage size) and get a battery to fit your range requirements. Either ready to use ones, or DIY your own in a water
  6. No kidding. I even get the feeling but really, really annoying on the boat since it does leave me with needing to fix it all... Especially since when the yard did it we asked for it to be done properly but ended up with this. Took the price drop back then...
  7. Hm, your boat looks quite a bit lighter than Bull's 1,5t minimum. How much power do you reckon you "need?" Because given the space you've shown and what seems like not a strict need for more than 1-2kW? you have quite a bit more in options. Well, depends on what you're goal is really.
  8. Well yes, but I didn't know the factor of that and forgot to ask at the time. I marked out the distance I needed between a measurement mark and the top end of the fitting. He even pointed out to me that it would elongate as makes sense considering the process. Guy fit it directly to the mark as intended. So now I wonder how much of the deviance comes from my previously taken measurements being off(bit of a mess I must admit) and how much is the swage itself. Figured that should be on data sheets since its all spec'ed but could not find such. Not publicly available? Well, it looks alr
  9. Been some time. While installing the new standing rigging I noticed that my forestay was a little longer than intended. Not a big issue, I think, as it is within the margin I wanted and I got rid of the turnbuckle in turn. But in combination with what the rigger mentioned about swages elongating had me look for data about that. See if I can figure out how much was myself taking inaccurate measurements(why I gave myself a margin of error) and what came down to said elongation while swaging the fitting? I couldn't really find tables for that and subsequently if I should make any adjustmen
  10. Well, that looks worse than I thought on the picture. Was one of the areas I opened up to take a closer look. Boat will be out of the water in a week and in a hangar where I'll remove everything fully and set things to dry for some time... Misremembered how it was in part... As is the "joint" is just an ugly line where the two paints meet. However the job will be slightly more work intense because in some areas the paint came off. So I'll be checking everywhere for any lose chips, cleaning up the area and repaint those while I am at it. In most places however it is more a questi
  11. Made me curious how your motor well looks? Not going to say I'd dream of such a concept myself since I would have needed to cut one... But if I had a boat with one already...
  12. That makes it a little more difficult. Would have thought the same method should work. (One my senior neighbours essentially does it. Long hook included to fish lines ) How are you handling it now and why won't it work for you? To sate my curiousity and widen my horizon.
  13. Not exactly but kind of? In fact I have used the same principle twice this summer when docking alone at a very exposed port(200m concrete causeway to a fishing/yacht port in deeper water) and 15-20+ knots of crosswind. Did locate slips with guide ropes installed though. Stopped up close to the windward piling near midships where the boat is generally balanced. Clipped a short, 100mm, strop from the shrouds(basically balanced there on the H-boat) to the guide rope and checked that the boat stayed where it was. Put out the two stern lines(took me a few tosses to get the leward one with
  14. Huh, they haven't yet? Weird. They already have the necessary bluetooth transmission. Getting an app like that to work is probably well within a day's work considering it does nothing outrageous at all.(I can't program, so my guess may be way off)(wonder if you even can get such a thing off the shelf somewhere) Have you talked with your dealer about this? Seems like a strange oversight.
  15. Poor phrasing on my part. The proper joint of deck and hull is glassed solidly. No issues or need to do anything there. It is however a polyester boat and there is a small gap between deck and hull paint that leaves laminate susceptible to water and eventual osmosis. That is all the bead is there to prevent.
  16. Whatever do you mean? I can get Sika 295UV 20Euro a cartridge here.
  17. I'll provide those. Boat will be lifted end of october and removing old sealant as well as dropping the rudder will be the first tasks. Until then I already have a roadmap on what to order.
  18. Just to be sure, no go to have a larger fillet that overlaps enough to also touch 2-3mm pristine hull? The hard way it is then... Though I am still considering to clean up the "crack" with epoxy and then add the fillet with Sika afterwards. Is there any reason why epoxy could be an issue? UV stability aside. Bit difficult to explain until I've opened up the joint and took some pictures. But right now the actual, not watertight, gap is 1-2mm wide. I'd like to seal that with epoxy(no fillet) so that just in case the sika ever fails before I got to replace it the area would still be wat
  19. How would I do that without removing everything? For reference, I do keep an eye on moisture as well as stains or the like to find any potential leaks (also no sandwhich core on the boat, just full laminate). And it is all bone dry since I redid the V-berth hatch.
  20. And woe if anything snags while doing all of that One does need to faff around with the extra ropes though. But then, that is basically a given single handing, right? Since you have pilings(missed it first) that should be an option for you. Works the same way while backing in too.
  21. Pretty unanimous for simply using sika295uv then. Kind of hoped for a different outcome, but advice has not steered me wrong here yet! Besides that was probably what they used the first time around and it was my mistake to take off the shelf sika that led to early degradation. Going to post pics when the boat is out of the water and I've started removing the old crap. Until then I want to ask about opinions about bead... width? Personally I'd like to go for a small radius, say 4mm. Save myself some additional work and material. Also wondered if I could then just run another
  22. Seriously. I hope it is just poor translation. They did note in the manual that the sensor is there and that it needs "clear skies" but considering gps, phone for example, works perfectly fine under deck unless you stash it virtually on top of the battery that makes little sense. Its glasfiber afterall, not a metal boat that actually blocks signals very effectively. Second sentence about software (development hell) sounds much more applicable. No less annoying to deal with though.
  23. This winter I want to fix an issue with my H-boat I always postponed or temporarily adressed ever since it came out the yard with a new paint job. This time for good. Yard painted both hull and topsides seperately and then sealed the small gap where coaming meets the hull with some 3M. Which worked but only lasted a few years. Redid it once and used some lesser compound so it lasted an even shorter period. My plan is to remove all the sealant, let the boat dry over winter in case there is any moisture at all(unheated warehouse), and then run a bead of thickened epoxy in spring for a
  24. Picture of your slip? Crosswind are the classically difficult ones but since it is your home slip you could do some modifications to make the job a breeze that wouldn't be available in some guest slips. My own experience is to just accept that it won't be as smooth as docking with two people.(especially in my own case where I don't have that much practice and routine!) Working from that I approach crosswind docking singlehanded very differently. Making sure to stop the boat once the windward midcleat is positioned at the stern docking cleat and fasten a direct line there(and only t
  25. Bull and I talked about that before. He stores it in the cockpit locker(4kg and a little chain right below helmsman) since that is much nicer to deploy from there as opposed to storing it in the cabin more forward as I tend to.(8kg, leaded rope. seldomly deployed)
  • Create New...