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Everything posted by allweather

  1. Not in particular, it is how we also rig it (on farr30 for example) for up and downs in particular. Though why aren't you dropping the jib/genoa which also eliminates the need to switch lazy sheets? Relatively rare for me to keep it up on spinnaker courses since it interferes more than helps.(though that can be boat specific and something to test)
  2. For clarification, I meant compared to stitching through the cover and core in one go. I've experienced it once when somebody didn't put in the stitching and the line parted. Unpleasant... Anyway, the cover is a bit of a pain but I have managed in the past with the exact same material. On the other hand on closer examination I may have also messed up and twisted the eye once while inserting...
  3. Looked up the original study since I was suprised at the severity of findings. https://newsroom.aaa.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/AAA-Electric-Vehicle-Range-Testing-Report.pdf Only leafed through it and can't say anything about the quality of research, but it appears solid enough to me? Though there seems to be room to grow considering the nissan only suffered 30% range reduction at 20F while heating the car to 72F from cold starting. I'm sure some reduction in cabin temperature would help, but most don't like the comfort decerase for obvious reasons.(I only tend to bother fo
  4. One point of that instruction bothers me. They say to sew the core splice before milking the loop back into the cover. Recently made that mistake with a 5mm dyneema core, polyester cover(liros magic pro). Getting the cover back on has been virtually impossible even using the usual tricks and elbow grease. Though if I had a hydraulic press, who knows? My theory is that the stitching added just enough bulk to stretch things to the limits. As is I am left with a tiny bit exposed and decided to call it a day. But question the wisdom of stitching the core itself instead of everythi
  5. Quick reminder that the data is usually just a quick web search away. https://www.naf.no/elbil/aktuelt/elbiltest/ev-winter-range-test-2020/ According to a norwegian test vehicles that start cold have around 20% decreased range when heated with a heat pump like virtually every EV coming on the market.(because as noted by TwoLegged earlier far more efficient use of electricity) If you can plug your car in overnight as everyone with their own parking space in front of their home you can set the car to heat up while still connected to the grid while you're still having breakfast and
  6. You're welcome and please do share any night sailing experience you may gather.
  7. Occasion to practice my poor skills. A little smaller?
  8. That you're reading a navy damage control lesson on how to (re)trim a hull tickles me something fierce. What do you want to accomplish though? I mean, it does cover things technically, but in the end all boils down to shifting the anchor forward until it looks right. So, what's the plan there besides distracting yourself until you have the test drive done?
  9. Certainly it goes to quite dim.(swipe down from the top of the screen, twice. There is a slider there.) But obviously no red lighting and I don't have it at hand yet(lend to family for a trip) or sailed with it at night.(too tired single handed ) I have read on it at night before and you can turn it down quite well, though I have not tried darkmode yet or checked how much if any significant impact it had on vision.
  10. About dings, the Dehler30OD I've been on has rubber rings around the jib lead low friction rings. Virtually impossible to hit with the metal parts and the rubber does dampen any potential impacts well. At least I haven't seen any dings after a year yet.
  11. Glad to hear that cleared up some things. Let me tell you that it would have been so much easier without the telescopic part but the h-boat was never designed for such a thing. Meaning the hatch is too small to allow a full length shaft to pass through and still reach deeply enough so my hand was forced. If I could I would certainly opt for a non telescopic variant. No need to account for variable cable length(right now I just let it slide in and out, a spiral cable would be preferable). One of the shelf carbon tube for load bearing and off the shelf bearings. Only needing to sleeve the
  12. I run the 24V 120lbs thrust motor. Aka EMP120 (see Pelican motors good overview) Before I adress individual points, let me say I learned a bunch of things already and would modify things from this very much beta version. Principles work however and overall it just runs. So I am not in a hurry. As is basically everything is DIY with fiberglass and foam of some sort or the other. As I have it right now it is a slide bearing with the rotating shaft simply sliding in its sleeve.(rotating part is acrylic and the sleeve is lined with teflon foil) This arrangement has its li
  13. It is the same motor I am using for my h-boat. Well, same company with different distributor and slightly varied characteristics.(160thrust wasn't available in 24V when I ordered) What are you interested about in the motor?
  14. We've stepped 420 masts with 15-16 singlehanded but were also quite fit race sailors. The recent kids coming from Opti certainly could not reliably manage. So I reckon not a lot of weight at all. Since you said lifting the mast overhead(quite intense for stablizing back muscles) is the major limitation, how about instead opting for a method of raising the mast that doesn't require direct lifting at all? Getting a pulley set up to raise it instead like on the smaller keel boats? A little boat specific preparation and raising as well as lowering is a two minute affair with little fanfa
  15. Oh that is going to haunt us forever, isn't it? Not that I entirely disagree considering how scummy the car lobby is... (not like other industries in other countries are any cleaner. At all) From all that I have heard, between adopters of Epropulsion and Torqeedo nowadays they're both pretty equal overall and the differences are up to minor personal preference. Or you know, not wanting to drop more money on a model that needs to be updated in case of the Torqeedos.
  16. Comfy. Never seen anything like that in h-boats, but I feel like I should mail my class about this entire thing. They do have a vast treasure trove of experience to fall back on, though most have far newer boats nowadays.(kind of like how most dragons being raced aren't wooden hulls)
  17. Yes, it is a fractional rig with swept spreaders where most of the headstay tension comes from the shrouds.(do pull quite hard on the aftstay to flatten the main, 28LG, and that does have an impact on headstay tension, but not the main contributor) In what way? Do you mean that if I were to measure shroud tension at a given angle of heel(15degrees for example) with highly pretensioned as well as less tensioned shrouds the latter should show significantly less units on the loose gauge? Also about warping the hull, are we talking simply about the bend induced by tension or something
  18. Yes, was the 2.0 they bolted to the hull.
  19. Got into a discussion after a round the cans club race about if I am not worried about sailing with such tight shrouds. Specifically someone wondered if my shroud's are failing(replacements in the trunk, just need to drop the rig and switch) because of the high tension and that it may be dangerous in general. Also mentioned hull stresses and so on. Point is that I didn't have any facts to quote to refute them and would like to ask you guys about it in general. Considering the numbers I sail with on the loose gauge are after the guidelines from the class association and have been used
  20. Fingers crossed, it really has been a long time! Funny, I just yesterday chatted with a yard owner who does the sale of the Saare H-boats. Was picking up my new shrouds(still need to swage the hull end terminations and that is going to be as time intensive as your yard time turned out to be because the local shop does sailboats "on the side") and used the occasion to talk about replacing the rudder and more. Point is, he also mentioned that he already fitted out a H-boat with a torqueedo pod and had an outboard H-boat in the area. Basically what you have and his testimony is that the
  21. Yeah, that sounded like a lot of steps for some god damn inserts Good thing I can put it off for now. H-boat is 5-6mm full laminate in the area which is not really enough for most commercial inserts(in stainless) I've seen. Seriously thought about tapping into the solid laminate but will need to see how that actually works when I get around to it in hopefully some years. The other idea we had while idly musing on a becalmed day was to get some 2mm aluminium strips to drill and tap, then screw into that. But at that point you aren't saving weight and it is maybe marginally neater.
  22. Ruminator already pointed towards the less accidental removal prone variant. But anything against ordinary split pins?
  23. Ah, I think mine isn't either and it was a thing the yard just didn't do quite right. Not even sure if the primer isn't continious and it is only the final paint that has that ugly 1-2mm gap. Basically right where your boat transitions from blue to grey I have a little different shades as well and the edge where the two meet is ugly like if it was taped poorly while painting or something like that. The yard used some semi flexible compount to run a nice bead all around but that is of course not as long lived as something as long lived as epoxy and paint.(especially in my pretty dirty
  24. Inserts! Makes sense and I always forget about them.(or try to because finding stainless ones is always a pain ) I forewent the teak battens for simplicity when redoing the windows and cabins, but still have the dozens of bolts you mentioned. Maybe I‘ll try your method and/or countersinking them when I need to do them again. (Still don‘t trust myself with going just with glue here) Right now the outside beads starts to show aging(nothing deeper) and will eventually need to be redone. But before that the deck hull joint is scheduled. Yard used some flexible compound (3M something) an
  25. Even with all that prep(the thick layer you posted a picture of earlier)? Hm, the picture you posted of the transom after painting does show a little wavy reflections compared to the sides which are mirror shine. Is it that we're talking about? Great that the yard is doing it on their own initiative. Even if waiting time isn't fun regardless of whether it is good sailing conditions. Much more pleasant than having to argue upon delivery! I wanted to ask about the portlights why not use countersunk screws for a flush appearance? I don't have that either and won't change anything un
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