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Posts posted by allweather

  1. 11 hours ago, Bull City said:

    The battery was 95% when we started, and 96% when we finished.

    I feel presumptious asking for clarification... How much did you motor in and out?

    Yeah, I agree with TwoLegged. Sounds like the charger not pouring power into a basically full battery regardless of how much you generate. Besides the natural charge acceptance at the upper end.
    Yeah, I don't even bother attaching my battery to the grid unless I am below 50% or plan for a long passage.

    • Like 1
  2. 56 minutes ago, Illegal Smile said:

    I estimate 650 lbs when loaded for camp cruising.

    The issue is range anxiety.

    Alright then. Looking how you don't need high speed and the boat is about a third and a bit of the h-boat let me draw the comparison to the smaller trolling motor I use compared to Bull's much more capable pod.

    My datasheet is for 120lbs thrust and uses about 1,2kW to drive the h-boat at 4kn and can do so four or five hours with my 24V 230Ah lifepo4 battery. Basically over fifteen miles of range.

    You should be able to use an off the shelf pod to great effect(very small storage size) and get a battery to fit your range requirements. Either ready to use ones, or DIY your own in a waterproof box.

    • Like 1
  3. 3 hours ago, slug zitski said:

    painter like caulk beads… they hide the paint transition

    No kidding. I even get the feeling but really, really annoying on the boat since it does leave me with needing to fix it all...
    Especially since when the yard did it we asked for it to be done properly but ended up with this. Took the price drop back then...

  4. 4 hours ago, Illegal Smile said:

    You can see how the Epropulsion outboard's aft end won't fit because of the transom overhang. 

    Hm, your boat looks quite a bit lighter than Bull's 1,5t minimum. How much power do you reckon you "need?"

    Because given the space you've shown and what seems like not a strict need for more than 1-2kW? you have quite a bit more in options. Well, depends on what you're goal is really.

  5. Well yes, but I didn't know the factor of that and forgot to ask at the time. I marked out the distance I needed between a measurement mark and the top end of the fitting. He even pointed out to me that it would elongate as makes sense considering the process. Guy fit it directly to the mark as intended.

    So now I wonder how much of the deviance comes from my previously taken measurements being off(bit of a mess I must admit) and how much is the swage itself. Figured that should be on data sheets since its all spec'ed but could not find such. Not publicly available?

    Well, it looks alright as is and if I ever need it redone I can hand over this one as reference...
    Forgot to mention, the old forestay I replaced? Upon closer inspection while dropping the mast I saw one of the wires was broken. :o(wasn't like that this spring) Good I got to it.

  6. Been some time. While installing the new standing rigging I noticed that my forestay was a little longer than intended. Not a big issue, I think, as it is within the margin I wanted and I got rid of the turnbuckle in turn.

    But in combination with what the rigger mentioned about swages elongating had me look for data about that. See if I can figure out how much was myself taking inaccurate measurements(why I gave myself a margin of error) and what came down to said elongation while swaging the fitting?
    I couldn't really find tables for that and subsequently if I should make any adjustments when measuring out any standing rigging in the future.

    In the meantime cleaned up the ding with the cracks and compared to older pictures. Cracks didn't get any bigger. So I concluded to leave it at that while keeping an eye on it.

    While I was going over my entire rigging I wondered if there is any reason why I can't remove two screws from my spreaders since they aren't in use anymore? Any concerns about just leaving the holes open?



  7. Well, that looks worse than I thought on the picture. Was one of the areas I opened up to take a closer look. Boat will be out of the water in a week and in a hangar where I'll remove everything fully and set things to dry for some time...

    Misremembered how it was in part...

    As is the "joint" is just an ugly line where the two paints meet. However the job will be slightly more work intense because in some areas the paint came off. So I'll be checking everywhere for any lose chips, cleaning up the area and repaint those while I am at it.

    In most places however it is more a question of aesthetics than exposed laminate(second picture). So my current plan is to simply prep the surface and paint over, sand and polish to a mirror finish afterwards and leave things.



  8. 9 hours ago, Illegal Smile said:

    so my shipwright thinks we could install some sort of lifting daggerboard contraption to use the EPod in my existing motor well.

    Made me curious how your motor well looks? Not going to say I'd dream of such a concept myself since I would have needed to cut one... But if I had a boat with one already...

  9. 3 hours ago, Misbehavin' said:

    but you can't really use that system when you get back to the dock.

    Not exactly but kind of? In fact I have used the same principle twice this summer when docking alone at a very exposed port(200m concrete causeway to a fishing/yacht port in deeper water) and 15-20+ knots of crosswind. Did locate slips with guide ropes installed though.

    Stopped up close to the windward piling near midships where the boat is generally balanced. Clipped a short, 100mm, strop from the shrouds(basically balanced there on the H-boat) to the guide rope and checked that the boat stayed where it was.

    Put out the two stern lines(took me a few tosses to get the leward one without changing the length of the midships tether. Need to practice nailing a piling from a distance some more) and slowly pulled myself forward from there with the boat secured against drift amidships and the windward stern line. For my small boat this is more than sufficient. Though it can be benificial(angle wise) to add one line between the guide rope and bow cleat while you're at it.

    It's all a bit more friction though when using a simple snap shackle like this. Which makes manual pulling more of a chore but also keeps the boat from being pushed with every little motion...

  10. 1 hour ago, Bull City said:

    eProp needs to make a product like TorqTrac, a Torqeedo product, which includes a Bluetooth thingie and phone app.

    Huh, they haven't yet? Weird.
    They already have the necessary bluetooth transmission. Getting an app like that to work is probably well within a day's work considering it does nothing outrageous at all.(I can't program, so my guess may be way off)(wonder if you even can get such a thing off the shelf somewhere)

    Have you talked with your dealer about this? Seems like a strange oversight.

  11. 10 hours ago, Crash said:

    your talking hull-to-deck joint

    Poor phrasing on my part. The proper joint of deck and hull is glassed solidly. No issues or need to do anything there.

    It is however a polyester boat and there is a small gap between deck and hull paint that leaves laminate susceptible to water and eventual osmosis.
    That is all the bead is there to prevent.


  12. 1 minute ago, SloopJonB said:

    Pics of the joint would help.

    I'll provide those. Boat will be lifted end of october and removing old sealant as well as dropping the rudder will be the first tasks.
    Until then I already have a roadmap on what to order.

  13. Just to be sure, no go to have a larger fillet that overlaps enough to also touch 2-3mm pristine hull? The hard way it is then...

    Though I am still considering to clean up the "crack" with epoxy and then add the fillet with Sika afterwards. Is there any reason why epoxy could be an issue? UV stability aside.

    Bit difficult to explain until I've opened up the joint and took some pictures. But right now the actual, not watertight, gap is 1-2mm wide. I'd like to seal that with epoxy(no fillet) so that just in case the sika ever fails before I got to replace it the area would still be watertight.

    Reasonable or idiotic idea?

  14. 4 minutes ago, JMOD said:

    also check the sealants at the hardware.

    How would I do that without removing everything?
    For reference, I do keep an eye on moisture as well as stains or the like to find any potential leaks (also no sandwhich core on the boat, just full laminate). And it is all bone dry since I redid the V-berth hatch.

  15. 8 hours ago, pcoe said:

    The time I release the dock line on the bow, hurry back to the cockpit while releasing the stern dock line, put the sailboat in forward and the wind has already pushed my bow to the other side of the slip aginst the starboard piling.

    And woe if anything snags while doing all of that ;)

    One does need to faff around with the extra ropes though. But then, that is basically a given single handing, right? Since you have pilings(missed it first) that should be an option for you. Works the same way while backing in too.

  16. Pretty unanimous for simply using sika295uv then.

    Kind of hoped for a different outcome, but advice has not steered me wrong here yet!
    Besides that was probably what they used the first time around and it was my mistake to take off the shelf  sika that led to early degradation.

    Going to post pics when the boat is out of the water and I've started removing the old crap. Until then I want to ask about opinions about bead... width?
    Personally I'd like to go for a small radius, say 4mm.

    Save myself some additional work and material. Also wondered if I could then just run another bead on top with a larger radius, 10mm, once the first one starts degrading so that I only need to deal with removal every other time.

  17. 7 hours ago, TwoLegged said:

    That blue reply is half way to Chingrish

    Seriously. I hope it is just poor translation. They did note in the manual that the sensor is there and that it needs "clear skies" but considering gps, phone for example, works perfectly fine under deck unless you stash it virtually on top of the battery that makes little sense. Its glasfiber afterall, not a metal boat that actually blocks signals very effectively.

    Second sentence about software (development hell) sounds much more applicable. No less annoying to deal with though.

  18. This winter I want to fix an issue with my H-boat I always postponed or temporarily adressed ever since it came out the yard with a new paint job. This time for good.

    Yard painted both hull and topsides seperately and then sealed the small gap where coaming meets the hull with some 3M. Which worked but only lasted a few years. Redid it once and used some lesser compound so it lasted an even shorter period.

    My plan is to remove all the sealant, let the boat dry over winter in case there is any moisture at all(unheated warehouse), and then run a bead of thickened epoxy in spring for a lasting seal.

    My question is if there are any obvious pitfalls I should be aware of and if using only one epoxy is a viable idea or if I should accept that I'll need to paint it afterwards for UV resistance? I still do have a small bottle of the 2k paint used for both the hull and top sides.(occasional scratch repair)

    Doing a second pass shouldn't be that difficult since while going around the boat is quite some distance, the area that would need scuffing is ultimately small. More pain redoing the masking tape and later polishing than anything else.

  19. 17 hours ago, pcoe said:

    my bow is all the way on the other side of my slip and now I am fighting a piling on the leeward side, rubbing aginst it.

    Picture of your slip? Crosswind are the classically difficult ones but since it is your home slip you could do some modifications to make the job a breeze that wouldn't be available in some guest slips.

    My own experience is to just accept that it won't be as smooth as docking with two people.(especially in my own case where I don't have that much practice and routine!)

    Working from that I approach crosswind docking singlehanded very differently.
    Making sure to stop the boat once the windward midcleat is positioned at the stern docking cleat and fasten a direct line there(and only that). Boat should then be secure and balanced.

    If anything have the bow drifting a little and put out fenders to windward/leward depending how your boat behaves or on both for safety's sake. Force should be low and movement slow so it is entirely adequate.

    If one has a rope running from the stern mooring cleat to the bow one can now run a block/shackle from that rope to the bow cleat(midship or both is good too), which will prevent the bow from drifting while you pull in the boat the rest of the way.

    You can also take your time bringing out the two stern lines now before removing the midship one that had your boat secure while you were doing all that and then simply motor in the rest of the way.

    Departing is essentially the same but even easier if you rig the shackle so that you can open it with a tripline from the cockpit.


    Just general musings, would be helpful to know your specific dock to give more relevant advice. Otherwise there is always foolish's book with worthwhile information.


    • Like 3
  20. 1 hour ago, Misbehavin' said:

    Do you store your anchor in your aft locker?

    Bull and I talked about that before. He stores it in the cockpit locker(4kg and a little chain right below helmsman) since that is much nicer to deploy from there as opposed to storing it in the cabin more forward as I tend to.(8kg, leaded rope. seldomly deployed)

    • Like 1
  21. 35 minutes ago, Bull City said:

    TONIC looks a little squat - I need to loose a few pounds.

    Hahaha, it is like that! (when underway alone/no gear) That's why the race sailors move one crew to the mast in light wind.(or I stash bags and gear in the V-berth)
    Losing a few kg usually doesn't hurt either. But so does delicious food!

    Anyway, beautiful spot and shot! Makes me want to rip off the motor bracket as well...(won't for now as a fallback. Besides, still have the mounts for swimming ladder that are still needed. Rest of the family vetoed rope ladder;))

    • Like 1
  22. 8 hours ago, Bull City said:

    When I press it (for no matter how long), I do not go the battery setting page. I go  nowhere.

    Okay, that complicates your confounding issues by a lot. Any chance you can get your dealer to mail you another remote so you can mess around without fear of bricking the entire drive you kind of need?

    I'd suggest resetting/repairing everything if not for risk of the pod not working at all afterwards. Which a second remote would alleviate and you spent enough that a bit of plastic should be in the budget.

  23. 1 minute ago, Bull City said:

    I don't believe the percentage is accurate either.

    That is significantly more disconcerting for usability!

    Curiousity had me leafing through the eprop manuals for a bit and I wonder if you already tried the old "turn it off and on again?" I mean (re)pairing the remote control with the motor controls. It shouldn't do anything, but you know how these things can be...

    Anyway, from what you've said I gathered you have two issues. The remote shows you the wrong speed and the charge level(range as well) does not appear to display correctly?

    No idea what's up with the former. The GPS sensor is supposed to be in the driver unit. The one you mounted right below the cockpit floor and there shouldn't be any issues, I think.

    But what you said about battery status gave me pause. What settings do you currently have put in for the battery?
    Differently put, have you already checked that you have the right parameters there?(what are they?)
    The battery showing a different readout than the remote control has me hazarding a guess that there is something wrong there.

    In particular voltage if the charge level is measured through the voltage curve. Your E80 battery is nominally 51.2V. If for example 48V is set because everyone knows them as 48V your battery won't drop below that level for quite some time. (Closer to 10% remaining actually) Well, that is my armchair guess of what I'd check next when I'm at the boat.

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