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allweather

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Everything posted by allweather

  1. Oh that is very good detail to know. Always had the knot "since one never sheets out that far anyway" but I also always worry about the mast remaining standing so anything against that is nice to know!
  2. With a little luck we're having Julian in here soon to give the cliff notes. Until then I asked similar questions before. Second post outlines how the 49er usually measures prebend/rake with the jib halyard.(that is where you'll get the references for) Usually forestay is within ranges and doesn't deviate much at all. Could be though.(I once mistook an old rig forestay with a new one. 1-2cm difference!) About curve, that doesn't actually looks too bad overall. Does it feel bad while sailing? Not depowering smoothly or other issues?
  3. Imagine my hand wriggling. Because on one hand you're right.(and hydrogen cars can probably cover that gap. Or more realistically biofuels running a generator to power the off the line electric) On the other there is being done some wonderful work on electrifying long distance trucks. Specifically putting some overhead power lines(like for trains) over highways(not the entire road network) so that trucks can run off of the grid while moving those longer distance and recharge at the same time while still being independent from any such infrastructure on the last delivery miles. As you
  4. Wrong thread? Isn't that already the case with CCS plugs? Last I've seen basically all EVs come with those nowadays.(or in case of Tesla's with an adapter in the trunk) Though I'd guess the US is going to fuck up charging infrastructure for some time the same way Germany did?(failing to establish road standards during buildup despite experts calling for that for years. Then wondering how incompatible god damn wall plugs are kind of a hindrance to keeping vehicles running)
  5. No, especially charging below freezing temperatures causes permanent damage to the battery. (Some rare and significantly more expensive exceptions aside and those are still limited in charge rate) Drawing power can still be done to an extent but usually somewhat decreased. Basically the chemistry gets too slow and instead of ions moving as usual between electrodes you‘re starting to convert them into pure lithium which can‘t hold any capacity as a battery. That is why there are cold specific batteries with much better isolation and internal heating for auch climates. Jus
  6. Now I get what you meant. Yeah, we simply don't bother and have the bowman do it before the drop. Which has given us difficulties before, but then so those gybe drops were too close anyway... Otherwise it can help to communicate how you're going to round the last mark(gate) and the bow can just prepare it purely for that(on some occasions disconnected the windward sheet, though that is better be well planned since tacking of course isn't like that) and rerun the sheet quick on the upwind. For those roundings/drops where you just know things are going to get too tight.
  7. Not in particular, it is how we also rig it (on farr30 for example) for up and downs in particular. Though why aren't you dropping the jib/genoa which also eliminates the need to switch lazy sheets? Relatively rare for me to keep it up on spinnaker courses since it interferes more than helps.(though that can be boat specific and something to test)
  8. For clarification, I meant compared to stitching through the cover and core in one go. I've experienced it once when somebody didn't put in the stitching and the line parted. Unpleasant... Anyway, the cover is a bit of a pain but I have managed in the past with the exact same material. On the other hand on closer examination I may have also messed up and twisted the eye once while inserting...
  9. Looked up the original study since I was suprised at the severity of findings. https://newsroom.aaa.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/AAA-Electric-Vehicle-Range-Testing-Report.pdf Only leafed through it and can't say anything about the quality of research, but it appears solid enough to me? Though there seems to be room to grow considering the nissan only suffered 30% range reduction at 20F while heating the car to 72F from cold starting. I'm sure some reduction in cabin temperature would help, but most don't like the comfort decerase for obvious reasons.(I only tend to bother fo
  10. One point of that instruction bothers me. They say to sew the core splice before milking the loop back into the cover. Recently made that mistake with a 5mm dyneema core, polyester cover(liros magic pro). Getting the cover back on has been virtually impossible even using the usual tricks and elbow grease. Though if I had a hydraulic press, who knows? My theory is that the stitching added just enough bulk to stretch things to the limits. As is I am left with a tiny bit exposed and decided to call it a day. But question the wisdom of stitching the core itself instead of everythi
  11. Quick reminder that the data is usually just a quick web search away. https://www.naf.no/elbil/aktuelt/elbiltest/ev-winter-range-test-2020/ According to a norwegian test vehicles that start cold have around 20% decreased range when heated with a heat pump like virtually every EV coming on the market.(because as noted by TwoLegged earlier far more efficient use of electricity) If you can plug your car in overnight as everyone with their own parking space in front of their home you can set the car to heat up while still connected to the grid while you're still having breakfast and
  12. You're welcome and please do share any night sailing experience you may gather.
  13. Occasion to practice my poor skills. A little smaller?
  14. That you're reading a navy damage control lesson on how to (re)trim a hull tickles me something fierce. What do you want to accomplish though? I mean, it does cover things technically, but in the end all boils down to shifting the anchor forward until it looks right. So, what's the plan there besides distracting yourself until you have the test drive done?
  15. Certainly it goes to quite dim.(swipe down from the top of the screen, twice. There is a slider there.) But obviously no red lighting and I don't have it at hand yet(lend to family for a trip) or sailed with it at night.(too tired single handed ) I have read on it at night before and you can turn it down quite well, though I have not tried darkmode yet or checked how much if any significant impact it had on vision.
  16. About dings, the Dehler30OD I've been on has rubber rings around the jib lead low friction rings. Virtually impossible to hit with the metal parts and the rubber does dampen any potential impacts well. At least I haven't seen any dings after a year yet.
  17. Glad to hear that cleared up some things. Let me tell you that it would have been so much easier without the telescopic part but the h-boat was never designed for such a thing. Meaning the hatch is too small to allow a full length shaft to pass through and still reach deeply enough so my hand was forced. If I could I would certainly opt for a non telescopic variant. No need to account for variable cable length(right now I just let it slide in and out, a spiral cable would be preferable). One of the shelf carbon tube for load bearing and off the shelf bearings. Only needing to sleeve the
  18. I run the 24V 120lbs thrust motor. Aka EMP120 (see Pelican motors good overview) Before I adress individual points, let me say I learned a bunch of things already and would modify things from this very much beta version. Principles work however and overall it just runs. So I am not in a hurry. As is basically everything is DIY with fiberglass and foam of some sort or the other. As I have it right now it is a slide bearing with the rotating shaft simply sliding in its sleeve.(rotating part is acrylic and the sleeve is lined with teflon foil) This arrangement has its li
  19. It is the same motor I am using for my h-boat. Well, same company with different distributor and slightly varied characteristics.(160thrust wasn't available in 24V when I ordered) What are you interested about in the motor?
  20. We've stepped 420 masts with 15-16 singlehanded but were also quite fit race sailors. The recent kids coming from Opti certainly could not reliably manage. So I reckon not a lot of weight at all. Since you said lifting the mast overhead(quite intense for stablizing back muscles) is the major limitation, how about instead opting for a method of raising the mast that doesn't require direct lifting at all? Getting a pulley set up to raise it instead like on the smaller keel boats? A little boat specific preparation and raising as well as lowering is a two minute affair with little fanfa
  21. Oh that is going to haunt us forever, isn't it? Not that I entirely disagree considering how scummy the car lobby is... (not like other industries in other countries are any cleaner. At all) From all that I have heard, between adopters of Epropulsion and Torqeedo nowadays they're both pretty equal overall and the differences are up to minor personal preference. Or you know, not wanting to drop more money on a model that needs to be updated in case of the Torqeedos.
  22. Comfy. Never seen anything like that in h-boats, but I feel like I should mail my class about this entire thing. They do have a vast treasure trove of experience to fall back on, though most have far newer boats nowadays.(kind of like how most dragons being raced aren't wooden hulls)
  23. Yes, it is a fractional rig with swept spreaders where most of the headstay tension comes from the shrouds.(do pull quite hard on the aftstay to flatten the main, 28LG, and that does have an impact on headstay tension, but not the main contributor) In what way? Do you mean that if I were to measure shroud tension at a given angle of heel(15degrees for example) with highly pretensioned as well as less tensioned shrouds the latter should show significantly less units on the loose gauge? Also about warping the hull, are we talking simply about the bend induced by tension or something
  24. Yes, was the 2.0 they bolted to the hull.
  25. Got into a discussion after a round the cans club race about if I am not worried about sailing with such tight shrouds. Specifically someone wondered if my shroud's are failing(replacements in the trunk, just need to drop the rig and switch) because of the high tension and that it may be dangerous in general. Also mentioned hull stresses and so on. Point is that I didn't have any facts to quote to refute them and would like to ask you guys about it in general. Considering the numbers I sail with on the loose gauge are after the guidelines from the class association and have been used
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