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Everything posted by allweather

  1. Fingers crossed, it really has been a long time! Funny, I just yesterday chatted with a yard owner who does the sale of the Saare H-boats. Was picking up my new shrouds(still need to swage the hull end terminations and that is going to be as time intensive as your yard time turned out to be because the local shop does sailboats "on the side") and used the occasion to talk about replacing the rudder and more. Point is, he also mentioned that he already fitted out a H-boat with a torqueedo pod and had an outboard H-boat in the area. Basically what you have and his testimony is that the
  2. Yeah, that sounded like a lot of steps for some god damn inserts Good thing I can put it off for now. H-boat is 5-6mm full laminate in the area which is not really enough for most commercial inserts(in stainless) I've seen. Seriously thought about tapping into the solid laminate but will need to see how that actually works when I get around to it in hopefully some years. The other idea we had while idly musing on a becalmed day was to get some 2mm aluminium strips to drill and tap, then screw into that. But at that point you aren't saving weight and it is maybe marginally neater.
  3. Ruminator already pointed towards the less accidental removal prone variant. But anything against ordinary split pins?
  4. Ah, I think mine isn't either and it was a thing the yard just didn't do quite right. Not even sure if the primer isn't continious and it is only the final paint that has that ugly 1-2mm gap. Basically right where your boat transitions from blue to grey I have a little different shades as well and the edge where the two meet is ugly like if it was taped poorly while painting or something like that. The yard used some semi flexible compount to run a nice bead all around but that is of course not as long lived as something as long lived as epoxy and paint.(especially in my pretty dirty
  5. Inserts! Makes sense and I always forget about them.(or try to because finding stainless ones is always a pain ) I forewent the teak battens for simplicity when redoing the windows and cabins, but still have the dozens of bolts you mentioned. Maybe I‘ll try your method and/or countersinking them when I need to do them again. (Still don‘t trust myself with going just with glue here) Right now the outside beads starts to show aging(nothing deeper) and will eventually need to be redone. But before that the deck hull joint is scheduled. Yard used some flexible compound (3M something) an
  6. Even with all that prep(the thick layer you posted a picture of earlier)? Hm, the picture you posted of the transom after painting does show a little wavy reflections compared to the sides which are mirror shine. Is it that we're talking about? Great that the yard is doing it on their own initiative. Even if waiting time isn't fun regardless of whether it is good sailing conditions. Much more pleasant than having to argue upon delivery! I wanted to ask about the portlights why not use countersunk screws for a flush appearance? I don't have that either and won't change anything un
  7. Generally one web search for dyneema away, but for expediency's sake a few links. And if you can get someone to look it over once done all the better. Should not be necessary if you follow instructions dilligently though. Splicebook with most of the essentials for general reading Straight bury is on page 23. https://www.gleistein.com/assets/download_pdfs_images/Kataloge/8275014ef6/Splicebookenglweb.pdf https://www.samsonrope.com/Mobile/SiteAssets/pdfs/LockStitch_Whip_Seize.pdf
  8. I have taped wires to the cabin roof before where there was no liner. Appropriately colored sail/spinnaker tape in my case and has held for a long time. Useful for where the wires are otherwise visible but only really practicable up to a certain size.(suprisingly large, smaller of course better) not sure if cooling is any concern. Probably not aince its just lights and such for you?
  9. Do you happen to have a picture of that? I think I understand what you mean, but better be sure. Thanks for the advice up to now.
  10. Let me check my insurance... Joking, the ruined paintjob would be horrible all on its own. Nevermind the situation I'd find myself in if it happened. Good that everyone agrees that I should have replaced it already. In retrospect I do regret not having bought spares during winter where fitting would have been far less of a hassle. Hindsight and learning process. I'm not quite clear what you mean here?(also going to ask the rigger/supplier about if the gear could handle it like that since I have no true understanding of if the sideload would do anything. Guess would say not so cons
  11. And all of those are good. Replaced them over the last two years as parts went bad. Boat is berthed right now and I haven‘t gotten around to cleaning up the small cracks. No news on that front. I did compare pictures from early this year and now and at least superficially it has bot grown. Technically small enough to drill out and put in a rivet, probably eight or ten millimeter. New standing rigging... is a work in progress. Want to get it right(read the actually correct t-terminals and lengths. H-boats here mostly sail without spanner in the forestay. Fixed length instead. W
  12. Rigger(that I got locally) agreed on the transversal crack in the terminal. Replacements are in the works, a temporary fix has been applied to secure the mast.(wire clamped on to the shroud and lashed down. Enough to hopefully save the mast if the terminal fails until home and replacements arrive, not for winning races) Didn‘t have a comment on the mast... so going to find another specialist for that.
  13. A closeup of the likely crack. Sure doesn‘t look nice.
  14. Crap. I don‘t have a magnifying glass right now, but it sure looks like a transversal crack running a third of the way around. Already talking with the supplier for replacements. May take longer though on account of my mast being old and using backing plates that the new boats have changed so the stays he has on stock may not fit.(which I could have within the day) The corrosion is something I spotted on a check and thought to fix once I‘m back home. The crack could maybe explain why I heard „knocking“ from the mast yesterday when beating to windward. (Couldn‘t figure it out while s
  15. Found two issues with my rigging I‘d like to hear people‘s opinion on before I get a rigger(that I still need to contact and have no knowledge of reputation/skill off) to take a look at and see what needs to be done. Jib sheet was attached via metal shackle for some time(before me) which did beat the hell out of the mast but those spots have pretty much stayed like that for all the years(at least a decade) since I went with a soft shackle. Should I be concerned and is there anything to be done about those? I am worried about this spot that is radiating cracks. Not sure when it
  16. I would not dare. No space to turn around in case of an abort, is there? And with how man people did you do it? With two to confidently douse sails I could see myself doing it. Alone I‘d always anchor and look for no wind to paddle in or a tender in case of motor damage. (Or drop a line at the first/front dock and sort things out if the marina has a „turn table“ protected by breakers I can drop the sails in without crashing into something or glide into.)
  17. Funny story about twelve meter in my area. They use to dock without motor or tender. (At least coming ashore. Leaving port they often got backed out by support) involves dropping sails in the port entry, glide into the slip(fairly straight shot) with quite a bit of momentum and hook the stern lines that are on winches midships. Then slow it down. One time they missed one stern line. Little damage to the boat. The wooden dock needed some planks changed. The big one snapped in half. Anyway, I do find the h-boat doesn‘t perhaps have hydraulic disk brakes, but the rudder still doe
  18. You joke, but the guys here are free stepping their masts easy peasy. (One or two to hold it, one pulling it up at the jib halyard. No guides or anything.) Anyway, bit of a long day yesterday and the post race chat was not as fruitful as hoped. Specifically the guys I managed to grab didn‘t know the weight off the top of their hat. (And I didn‘t meet the class head) Agreement was though that if you really do care about it mast weight is the dominating factor and stays, boom and sails too much of a pain in the ass to figure out when scooting fore or aft by ten centimeters has more of
  19. Probably a little less than what twolegged said. I know Imcan carry the mast on my own and the stays aren‘t that heavy. You know, I‘m at a H-boat race right now. I‘m sure someone knows the rigging weight. Let me know and Give me until the evening in case you haven‘t figured something out already.
  20. Transom starting to look nice! I too doubt you have anything to worry about in regards to efficiency. Some may be there in the electronics since the price difference isn‘t just in the name. But at the same time the pods are better suited to a larger boat like our small sailboats compared to the still dinghy focused outboards. I really like how well everything is sorted under the companionway!
  21. No, it definitely looks like that to me too. Probably only an artifact of light like you said though. Can't think of a single reason why the yard would not get that right. Their other paint work is perfect afterall.
  22. Sure, as long as the tiller pilot manages to keep the boat pointed in the right'ish direction.(looking to upgrade. Likely Pelagic from the TP10 but need to figure out placing the control unit...) It is fairly straight forward on the h-boat to launch from the companionway, having rigged the spi pole first, and then sheet on. The good thing about the cockpit is that standing forward of the traveller I have full control of the spinnaker, all the sheets easy to grab and can intervene in case the computer does a stupid. With the old autopilot the biggest struggle is going forward to place
  23. I could see it working if they have time for it and plan things smart. But they're probably swamped with work? At least that was the case when my boat was in the yard(years ago) for complete overhaul and spent far too much time outside waiting for them to have time to work.(not counting the time period needed for drying out as part of osmosis treatment) Sorry to hear that considering the season right now. Can commiserate though on account of no wind the past four days... On the upside, test fitted an adapted companionway spinnaker bag. Looking forward to trying it out on the water.
  24. Would be a simple case of hauling out, switching the prop and being back in the water then? That sounds like a reasonably simple thing to do in an afternoon. I mean, your boat is going to get back in the water relatively soon going by current progress?
  25. Those are really news one does not wish to hear! Not the hull work being done. That seems to come along nicely.(how's the transom looking?) But supplier screw up like that... My bet is a different shaft size and potentially adjusted shape owed due to the significant difference in power. Good on you asking the maker directly. Sure sounds like someone in that company is going to write some emails to the eprop contact as well. Surely not the kind of image they wish to project.
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