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SimonGH

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About SimonGH

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    Westbrook CT
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    Sailing

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  1. That's funny. Similarly my boat is all B&G, but the N2K network is setup using SimNet hubs. I have yet to find any device on the boat with a simNet connector, so then every drop cable is simNet to Micro-C (the standard N2k connector). But I will say the SimNet hubs are much better than lots of micro-c Tees... I really like the Zeus line from B&G. It's both touch and has hard buttons, so you can choose either method of use. At the helm I rarely use the touch. Inside I have a Vulcan 12, as the touch is fine in that setting, the screen is fantastic, you can mirror the d
  2. I used this with a 12v-5v buck converter. I also replaced the speed controller with a pwm version so it was more efficient- the resistive controller they had got very warm. AC Infinity AIRPLATE S7, Quiet Cooling Fan System 12" with Speed Control, for Home Theater AV Cabinets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009CO543S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_BS1NQVSM925ZETCWRSC1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
  3. Did you figure this out? Curious as to the issue & solution...
  4. This is how Beneteau did it on my 41.1. I bought the parts (the bobstay and the extra roller) and installed myself. There is a stainless backing plate inside and it's thru bolted. I think the double anchor rollers give good lateral support, so you just need to react the upward forces. Are you using this with a bowsprit tube, or the trogear triangle, or something else?
  5. Good catch. So what do you clean with? Acetone?
  6. If you're only bonding then ensure you're extra clean. I.e. abrade both mating surfaces, clean with IPA turning the cloth with each pass, don't touch it afterwards etc. If you do reinstall fasteners or helicoils or inserts, ideally you "wet install" them with something that prevents water intrusion. Sealant or TefGel, etc. would suffice. I've not really used 4200 as a primary adhesive - Zonker, do you need to have proper clamping force to get a decent bond?
  7. This is very detailed, but there are a lot of considerations with putting stuff into carbon. Galvanic corrosion is a big one... https://www.shur-lok.com/salesapp/product_dls/Advance_Composites.pdf
  8. Which bracket? How much load is on it? Can you remove the bracket and get to the holes the screws are going into? There are some blind nut solutions (aerospace) for CF that could work, but it depends on size, load, and access to install... Do you have a picture?
  9. SteamFlyer is correct. My dad has been an electrical engineer for 50+ years. He always taught me the same thing - "check the ground" On my brand new boat we chased issues like the starter not working, the battery not charging, etc. Had the Beneteau rep out, replaced parts, batteries, etc. all in all, Beneteau spent over $3000 chasing the issue. Then I grabbed the big ground cable running to the engine, and the cable pulled right out of the crimp lug. The only thing holding it together was the adhesive lined heatshrink. $5 fix at WestMarine. "check the ground!" my dad sa
  10. The first thing I would check is the power. It is possible that when the MFD boots, the power demands increase, and if you have a loose or corroded connection, you may get enough voltage drop that it powers down. It may not be right at the connection with the MFD, so you may have to check all the way to the power source. Alternately you could run a dedicated 12v power supply so you know the power is good... if it still does the same thing, then you want to call their support - they are pretty good, and It may be still under warranty. Until you can get it to stay powered, I don
  11. After lots of panic envisioning having to call B&G, remove and ship hardware etc, I came across this in another forum. I don’t know why B&G wouldn’t post this prominently on their software update page, but following these directions recovered my NAC-3 and restored it to fully functional. phew. Failed_NMEA2000_updates_-_Diagnosis_&_Recovery_2021-05-02_21-33-22.pdf
  12. So while updating the software on my NAC-3 via the MFD, the update failed and now the NAC-3 doesn't appear on the network at all. I just get "no autopilot computer". Is there any way to "force" an update, or reset it? I'm so frustrated!
  13. With my recent wind sensor troubles (which now looks like a bad mast cable) - I was curious as to other solutions out there. Is anyone using these ultrasonic type sensors? if not, why not? Are they not accurate enough? https://www.hodgesmarine.com/nco000-11741-001-navico-110wx-ultrasonic-wind-sensor-w6m-cable.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjw--GFBhDeARIsACH_kdbb6TNr4yTsbJ4IPfDwpPL7a8w7ikvNpT2Z50bkqFgtkRzKXxx9qK4aAtxWEALw_wcB There was an old review (2015) of a Maretron WSO 100 product that was discontinued, yet the reviews were very positive. What happened?
  14. I sent you a PM, but i figured i'd post what i'm doing here incase folks have good suggestions: * The background: I have a 2019 Beneteau 41.1 Current batteries are AGM group 31. There are 4 house batteries and one starter battery. Alternator feeds a Cristec MOSFET charge divider between the house and starter bank. Theres also a 60 Amp shore charger that feeds each battery separately. I have a Victron battery monitor and smart shunt. There is also 2 batteries up front for the bow thruster, those are old school lead acid. My plan is to shuffle things - i'm going to take 2
  15. I just put mine aboard a couple of days ago. it's an interesting question, I honestly hadn't considered it. The plastic film isn't doing much, perhaps it would be better to remove it and paint it with zinc chromate primer or even epoxy enamel. The cost differential is significant... my 280Ah cells were $120 each (including shipping from china). The other thing to consider is that if you watch the videos where they cut open a commercial battery (like battleborn), they are full of the cylindrical cells with bare aluminum cases and that blue film. Not saying it's right, but
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