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Everything posted by bluefightingcat

  1. Where and how on a sailing dinghy would you attached the insta360? I was thinking at the end of the boom or on the tiller some how.
  2. Thanks for the advice. I think I will do what phill_nz suggested.
  3. You're right. They weren't loose. I just wanted to be cautious considering I have the opportunity to do so. The boat is from 1985 and I suspect that those screws have been there since. Therefore I was thinking it might be wise to strengthen things a little. Maybe I will just dumb a little epoxy in the hole before screwing the plate back on.
  4. Attached a photo of what is below. It's all fiberglass underneath. There is also some sort of strut to strengthen the deck. However I believe this is more related to supporting the mast. The old screws are 2.5cm long and 5mm wide.
  5. I have a small 5 meter sailing dinghy called a Still 525. My mast deck plate got damaged and has been sent for repair. It is attached to the deck with 4 screws (see photo). I was wondering whether I should do something to fortify the screw holes whilst the deck plate is being repaired. This way when I reinstall the deck plate it will be "stronger than ever". Not sure what I should do exactly. Should I just pour some epoxy in the holes? Any suggestions? I do not have access to the underside of the deck.
  6. My dinghy metal shrouds have worn out and I plan to replace them with Dyneema DM20. To connect the dyneema to the mast I plan to use a t-eye: No am wondering what is the best way to connect the dyneema to the t-eye. There are two options. Using a cow-hitch like this: or splicing the t-eye directly into the dyneema eye. I am wondering which one is more secure. The first option is easier in practice but I am wondering whether the strength of the dyneema will suffer alot because of the bends.
  7. Thanks. This is what I'm looking for.
  8. I was reading up on this. Some say that forestay tension is not an issue since, the jib halyard will provide tension. As long the mast rake is ok then it's fine. Also I read that for the shrouds, it's enough that the leeward shroud doesn't go all untensioned when sailing upwind.
  9. Yeah it has spreaders. The jib is attached with hanks, so no wire luff. The boat is old, from the 80s, so there is not much information around about how much tension there should be. I was hoping for some sort of basic "rules of thumb" to try and experiment and see what works.
  10. I've got a 5.25m day sailing dinghy (something like a GP14 or flyingScot). I was wondering what is the best way to ensure that my shrouds and forestay are tensioned enough? This is not a performance dinghy but none the less it would be nice to get as much performance out of it as possible. I'm relatively new to all this.
  11. Thanks for the info. I'm just asking because I've been in a situation where I've had to lower the mainsail (that was not really a problem). In the end I had to be rescued (wasn't a big deal) but I am curious to know whether there is a way to raise the mainsail again whilst out on the water. In my case if the boat is not facing into the wind, then when raising the sail, the sail tends to get stuck in the shrouds because the boom is wide open.
  12. I was wondering what would be the best way to get the mainsail if you're on the water (and you don't have an engine). I would assume that pointing the boat upwind would make it easiest to raise the mainsail but if I am not mistaken pointing the boat upwind without an engine is hard.
  13. Thanks for the replies. I have no intention of not learning/teaching the essential skills. And I have no intention of preventing the boom from gybing. I just thought that with the boombrake I could add a little friction to slow down the swing so in case of an accidental gybe wouldn't be too violent. As opposed to a preventer which would if I have understood correctly will prevent the boom from gybing. I would probably compare it to driving. When you're learning you drive a bit slower, so that if you make a mistake then the consequence won't be as bad. Once you know what you are doing, th
  14. Thanks everyone for the advice. I appreciate it.
  15. Does anybody use a BoomBrake on their dinghies? I have a 17 foot dinghy and I sail a lot with the kids. I was just thinking that it would be great to have a boombrake so that the boom doesn't violently swing across in case mistakes are made.
  16. Yeah I saw that. That's part of the plan.
  17. Yes the forestay would be independent. I would run a wire from the furler at the bottom to the swivel at the top. This would be the appropriate size for the jib. I would then hank the jib to that wire and have the bottom and top of the luff attached to the furler and the swivel respectively. Then the top of the swivel would be attached to the halyard which would be used to tension the whole setup. I would imagine this would be ensure that the jib wouldn't sag. Have a look at the attachment to get a better idea of what I plan to do. Also the separation would be an issue but I think I could
  18. You wouldn't happen to have some photos around. I would love to see how you managed to do it.
  19. I have a Still 525 sailing dinghy. This class is probably unknown outside of Finland but it's much like a wayfarer, Flying Scot, GP14 etc. Here is a Picture of the boat in case it helps to see what I mean. Currently the jib is setup to attach to the forestay with plastic shanks. I was wondering whether it would be possible to instead add a furler and attach the jib halyard to the furler and have the jib furler around the halyard instead of the forestay. The Jib does not have a wire sown into the luff but I believe it will furl round the halyard none the less. Can anybody see a
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