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About 221J

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    Sailing, cars, biking

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  1. I assume this is without the optional mud palms.
  2. I swung a sextant on the Transpac. We had Loran C and a beta test GPS (spotty satellite coverage hindered it) but, if I recall correctly, I had to submit 3 position fixes to be scored. I took noon sights because it was so much easier. The ancients didn't have accurate time while I had a quartz watch synched to time from a radio station in CO. I still remember how amazed I was at how far the sun traversed in a minute.
  3. There are many problems that can cause a diesel to smoke. To start a list there a rings (as you noted), valve seals, injectors, oil level, scored cylinder walls. You need a solid diagnosis before deciding what repair to perform. How many hours are on the engine and has it been maintained well? Laser 28's are nice boats and deserve a working engine.
  4. Yes, because your shins won't like them opening into the cockpit.
  5. A really good idea that I am trying. The knowledgeable PO is not the recent seller, or the two before that. It certainly would be an effective fish stunner. As a turnbuckle tool, it would be for a maxi, not my 40 footer. Rig tuner is an interesting concept.
  6. Tell me you photoshopped the grime out of the real picture.
  7. That is a real possibility and will look into that. It might be for the spreader pins. Mast is locked up in a barn for the next 3 months so no quick answer to this.
  8. Mine is Plexus'ed. There are keepers at the ends to prevent them from slowly peeling up. The keepers are cf tightly wrapped around both the track and the mast with a slot sawn in to allow the sail to enter. My track is a slot for a boltrope. Mast is a bit over 20' long. It is for an International Canoe.
  9. You won't find titanium with the toughness of stainless. Look at the notch sensitivity values. Steel is really good at prevent a small defect from growing. There is no way to inspect and find a fatal defect in titanium. This is a condensed version of what I learned working with the USN for a decade. This is not a good idea. A titanium bike is a much better idea.
  10. The Mark Grasser external rectifier has a substantial heatsink and a fan.
  11. The rectifier inside an alternator dissipates about half the total heat of the alternator. Install an external rectifier and that heat is dissipated elsewhere.
  12. Thanks. I too have a Mitsubishi alternator on a Volvo Penta. It is rated at 115A output. I will be charging 200 A-hr of LFP batteries. I have a Wakespeed WS500 external regulator. I went back and forth between the Wakespeed and Nordkyn. I may forego the external rectifier. The external regulator is mandatory for the LFPs
  13. An Intense Spider with a lock-out fork and rear shock. I have one so I know how good it is on trails and on the road. I own many road and trail bikes and nothing touches the Spider for being a do all bike. I've done the Whole Enchilada in Moab on it and 50 mile road and gravel rides. Usually hardtails are slow and uncomfortable on a trail and suspension bikes are bouncy on the road.
  14. I am definitely going to external regulation. However there is still the panel in the cockpit with its warnings to consider and if it isn't happy the engine won't start or an alarm won't stop.
  15. I'm considering installing an external rectifier on my alternator. Has anyone opened up their alternator and made the connections for one? It's a Volvo Penta alternator made by Mitsubishi which means it is n field excitation, not so mainstream. I'm sticking with it so I don't have to modify the engine management system to accept a p type alternator. The external rectifier is to increase the reliability (by reducing heat by about 50%) when it charges a battery with a higher C.
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