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  1. My experience is old and from days of aluminum boats -- no first hand experience with carbon. Everything metal must be isolated electrically -- even the small bits. For instance, vhf antenna will need isolation sleeve on the threaded part touching a metal mounting clip. This boat would be an excellent choice for dry sailing if available to you (not usually possible with cats). On a previous boat, the negative ("earth") which was connected to an engine bolt was fed through a solenoid/relay. Turn key and the starter and negative solenoids were activated. Special engine alarm and sensor
  2. Have had 2 over 30 years on a 41 footer. They work as advertised. When cruising and at dock, we put slip knots in the adjuster line to keep the car centered. They are relatively easily deformed should say a 300 lb guy steps on it. The sheet metal bits can also be deformed by hard gybes when our big hexacat block kinda squashes it.
  3. Jay Herman at Annapolis Rigging made us a tiny LED light that was heat shrunk to the support of the windex. Used almost no power. Haven't seen commercially, but very spiffy. Powered from tricolor running light ckt. Still works after 8 years aloft. Windex/Davis makes a led version of their standard windex light for the bottom of the support -- pretty short money too.
  4. I think the gap filler is PVC wrapped around 1/2" foam used to hide gaps in Irwins and Morgans. A decent caulk bead once everything else is cleaned up would probably work OK
  5. Another low cost almost no weight option is Doel Fin or equal attached to the outboard. No experience with RIB, but mad a big difference in time to plane on our small fishing boat https://www.amazon.com/Davis-Doel-Fin-Outboard-Outdrive-Stabilizer/dp/B0014490TS/ref=asc_df_B0014490TS/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312430092407&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10980910939462837072&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9007828&hvtargid=pla-451595092777&psc=1
  6. Trevor Harney is good. If you haven't googled riggers in Annapolis, others that come to mind are Jay Herman at Annapolis Rigging and the Rigging Company. There are many others
  7. Dremel tool, G10 and patience. Carve your own in an hour. If not class legal, cover with rigging tape.
  8. Delaware Bay to Norfolk is no sweat. Freighters routinely traverse C&D canal through to Norfolk. Your air draft may be a problem if you want to use the Cape May canal Coming around Cape May is no problem otherwise if you have reasonable piloting skills. Approach to C&D is easier in teh daytime, but not a big deal. .
  9. Check/replace deck fill o-ring regularly once you get the mess cleaned up. Helps keep water out of the fuel.
  10. Once broke a tap in cupronickel pipe. Used oxyacetylene torch to burn out the ferrous metal. No harm to alloy. Never tried with alumium
  11. Martel is a good outfit used elliptic props for 20 yrs, refurbished once in reverse, you need to really spin the prop. In forward a little throttle gets you going. Need maybe 50% greater rpm to get similar reverse bite. Common issue forfolders
  12. Bill Gladstone North U sail trim 25 bucks the whidden book is very good also any trim guides from sailmakers for your class boat good luck p
  13. If the loft is local and did a good job, I’d do what I could to help keep them in business Who knows you may be the one that needs help down the road with s repsir a nice word goes a long way in a tough economy
  14. Have not dealt with self bailers... Is the bailer installation rigid? If the bailer flexes in the hull, it's unlikely you'll get much of a lasting seal with the stainless. The failure of the existing sealant suggests flexing of the bailer in the hull. Bailers have a tough life in that they get stepped on stressing the sealant. Epoxy would not be my first choice as a sealant. I'd use a polysulfide caulk like Life Calk and avoid 5200 or silicone. I suspect you have silicone in place now, in which case nothing is likely to stick very well. P
  15. Repowered a 41 a few years ago -- engine was a 25 yo Yanmar diesel 30. The overall cost was around 20k -- about 10k for the new engine, 10k (believe it or not) for the new prop, shaft, drop rudder to install shaft, new motor mount, exhaust, new controls, instruments, even mods to the engine box as the new engine was slightly different. Also needed a custom welded SS exhaust loop. New engine was quieter and nice. Was a shaft and strut not sail drive installation. Bayshore in Annapolis did the work at Jabins. There were some yard charges (crane in and out). It was kid of messy and the
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