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Jangles13

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About Jangles13

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    Maine

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  1. Thanks, I was thinking of getting a new pair of slides and separate blocks with beckets. Probably the cleanest way and I can either sell the stock pair or keep them to revert later. I may make up some skinny soft shackles and see if I can get them in the existing mess first.
  2. The Harken cams require an inward and up motion to release, so reducing the effort to sheet in is the same goal. Added benefit of being able to adjust easier from rail upwind, etc.
  3. I don’t mean to doubt you, but the sheet and cleat work fine for me, and not for her. I can sheet the jib in while it’s loaded while seated at the tiller. She has to stand and use both hands while bracing. The boat we were borrowing has the same set up as our new one. Sheet goes from clew, through schaefer lead, to harken swivel cam. NE sta-set. Nothing weird with angles or even old gear. While she goes to the gym I still want to go to 2:1
  4. Well she's 120lbs at 5'10" and mostly leg... so... yes, user is the issue, but that's why we have mechanical advantage.
  5. 2:1 Jib sheets My crew has trouble releasing the loaded sheets, so I was thinking 2:1 would be a good addition. It's either that or try spinlock PXR that have mixed reviews. Maybe I'm being dense, but I don't see how to attach the sheet end on a the jib car. This boat has stock Schaefer hardware (19mm) and the base of the block is stuffed. I don't plan to change out the tracks/cars for proper Harken at large expense, so what's the solution? Just weave some lashings in there to create a loop?
  6. I wouldn’t go with something for “a season or two” personally. Either learn to sail on OPB, rent, or buy something with longer term potential. With that many females in your life DO NOT underestimate the value of an onboard head with some form of privacy. A bucket behind a curtain doesn’t count. If your family hates it you’re selling regardless. If they like it, you don’t want to have bought in twice. Selling a boat is rarely as easy as hoped. Ensign over Typhoon or Bristol, unless you’re doing class racing. Actually I wouldn’t pick any of them. They’re attractiv
  7. I don’t even know what RYA PN is. Guessing Royal Yacht Assoc? I ordered Doyle race sails, as deadline is 31st. Class favorites and best price against N & Q, only marginally more than a local loft could build something. Yeeeoch.
  8. Yeah, the “fleet” is 7 boats and no one has even recent sails. Even with that competition, I can’t sail this thing with 20yo pillow cases. No sign of a used market. I haven’t seen any listed other than some candidates for hand bags. Plenty of wanted ads. I suspect owners just rotate down until they’re soft or donate them to schools & non-profits with R19s.
  9. SAILS! Need 'em. Don't like how expensive they are for a little boat... especially since we're not going to be racing at top level. Doyle, North, Q are all close in price for their off-the-shelf OD race rags (currently 15% fall discount). North offered "Sport" which I gather is a recreational sail for about 25% less but it's missing features like windows and jib battens and probably a so-so cloth. Local loft is somewhere between in pricing. Looks like almost everyone in the class uses Doyle... Any guidance? Not really sure there is a question here, just a grumble.
  10. Some sort of connection to the Bullitt GC32 team? Complete guess, absolutely nothing but the name & catamaran theme to correlate.
  11. Stay inside as much as practical (no night sailing outside). It is possible to get along with *just* charts… the horror. Radar for daytime travel isn’t necessary. Perfectly capable vessel if properly kept. You can anchor in a great number of places. I prefer to skip the Dismal Swamp, but to each their own.
  12. Yes, sailboat trailers are fiercely expensive. “On The Road” made nice painted channel iron units for them but are no longer, so new boats come with Load-Rite with custom bolt on posts, the trailer itself being boxed galvanized which I’ve found rusts quickly (@$5k). The Stuart I’m purchasing doesn’t have a trailer but I stumbled on a cheap On The Road trailer (3hrs away) that required some rebuilding; minor welding, new keel tray, lighting, a couple poppets, and paint. Many of the older boats have sketchy trailers. As you pointed out, easy to double the boat value with a new setup.
  13. Correct, Hull & Hingham combine fleets from what I’ve been told. Fleet #5 is quite active in MH. The only boat publicly listed is #606 in Hingham (1979 champion), and I have looked into it, but I think there’s a Stuart near me that I’m going go with. My “crew” has indicated she much prefers the newer interior layout. As an added bonus I won’t get trapped into a restoration project. Now onto how to optimize the possibly slower version. Not that our club will be competing anywhere remotely close to the Mass fleets.
  14. Ah, yes I can see the nose job. Some of our DS1 boats have had a strop installed from the forestay plate to the bow eye bolt end, to prevent such an event. Allegedly the shear strength of the bow eye in the stem is considerably stronger.
  15. So it's a 60 year old development class. Fantastic. Between the jib lead, mainsheet/traveler arrangement, jumpers, and a few other things it's hard to know which way to go. I like the custom bracing 121, that's slick. I also didn't consider disassembling the boat... I'm guessing stapled flange under the rub rail. Our club has a fleet of O'Day Daysailer 1 and a couple of them have ripped the forestay tang out as a result of excess main sail leech tension. Or rather, opened the deck up like a tin can. Is that something to be watchful of on the Rhodes too? I noticed Small's shop ap
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