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About mvk512

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    So Cal

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  1. As Longy said, there are really no viable anchorages in SoCal for what you want to do. The cheapest slips I know of in So Cal are in the Wilmington area of the inner LA Harbor. It's pretty industrial around there, but felt safe when I visited a friends boat. It just takes awhile to get to open ocean. CYM Wilmington 40' slips run $500/mo, Yacht Haven Marina slips run $476/mo. Going down to 35' gets you down to about $420/mo at both of those. Compare that to CYM Port Royal in King Harbor, Redondo Beach, which just raised its rates for 40' slips to $1100/mo... ouch. If you want live-aboard.
  2. I used Semco natural on the handrails and toerail and it came out good enough for me. I chose natural over clear for the additional UV protection. The rails were previously coated in Cetol which had deteriorated and disintegrated through the years prior to my purchasing her. I don't like Cetol, and I didn't want to deal with varnish and the ongoing maintenance. I primarily race her... looks are not a priority. I was contemplating just painting them, but I thought I'd give Semco a try. The old coating was easily removed with heat gun & scraper. It took a few rounds of teak cleaner and
  3. Nacho did a great job on a challenging rudder bearing replacement last year. His price was fair and he stands behind his work.
  4. You might try these guys. The do a lot of work around CYM Cabrillo Marina. The owners son seems like a good guy. They do good work, but I expect they're not cheap... and are typically booked up several months in advance.
  5. As others have said... Start slow. I'd recommend not just swimming. Throw in cross-training and core building/stretching exercises. I failed to do this and am paying for it now. Muscle strength and cardio will come much quicker than the tendons can deal with it. Cross training can help to keep the cardio up while distributing the load across your body. I was a competitive swimmer from a young age, through college and a several years beyond. After that came 30 years of little to no exercise except to beat myself up at annual surf & trips, and sailing whenever I could find the time. Up
  6. mvk512

    Radar pole

    FWIW... Stan Honey made a custom spin pole mast track radar mount for his Cal-40. His discussion on it is a little over half way down this link.
  7. Yes, at one time she was. Now more like an Express 38.5 with several cool mods designed/engineered by Carl Schumacher prior to his passing and implemented by the original owner back around 2000. Unfortunately, no class racing for me and several E37's just moved into the harbor racing one design. If I had only known that would happen three years ago...
  8. I have the Origo 6000 and love it. If you can find one and are looking for an alcohol oven/stove combo, I highly recommend it. While the oven doesn't have a thermostat as Alex points out, it has a temp gauge and it's not hard to control the temp. The oven takes a while to heat up, but not a problem as long as you plan in advance. The stove top boils water quickly and not noticeably slower than the propane units on friends boats. The gimbal works well to keep the oven and stove top stable. We reheated a large somewhat thawed large lasagna in about 45 minutes recently on an overnight race
  9. I have a Wichard U-bolt for the bobstay on my 38’, 92m2 C0 on a 0.45m prod. It works fine with high loads. The angles are important. The u-bolt loads are mostly in shear.
  10. The UK Lazy Cradle does look interesting... https://www.uksailmakers.com/lazy-cradle-detailed.
  11. 6hp should be plenty of power for an Evelyn 32... even in the PNW. Anything larger is just too much weight for that boat.
  12. Yes, snapping the Simrad arm off the pin does take a bit of force. Placing a thumb on the tiller stock and reaching down with fingers to pull the arm up always seemed to provide plenty of leverage to release it quickly and easily though. That said, the uncontrolled upward force of the arm banging into to the under side of the tiller stock did result in some small dents over time, but that was easily remedied with a chafe pad. The tiller arm pin socket did loosen up a bit over time too. Perhaps your fit is tighter. You could ream out the socket a bit. I haven't had issues aligning the arm
  13. I don't know if they've changed the design in the past few years (or perhaps it was an option) but the TP32 unit I bought (over 10 years ago) came with a tiller pin identical to the Raymarine that works with the current Pelagic. On the SC27 I had a bracket that allowed mounting the pin below the tiller (photos attached)... similar to yours but with a pin instead of a ball joint. On the current boat the pin is just bonded right into the tiller (epoxied into a drilled hole). I know overpowered well... Reef often and early! I don't like flogging sails.
  14. I use the same tiller pin with the Pelagic, Simrad and Raymarine units. The Pelagic doesn't grab the ball on the end of the pin like the TP32, it just sets on it. The Pelagic has never hopped off the pin, but occasionally I use a light bungee loop just in case. I haven't had a problem popping any of the tillerpilots off the pin quickly when needed (obviously as long as I'm nearby). I guess I'm used to it after many years. With any of the tiller driven actuators, it's going to be a pain in the ass if your overpowered and on your ear. An under-deck drive with a clutch would solve that, but
  15. I'm using the standard actuator on a 38ft displacing 4.8 tons. So far it's been great. Mike at Scanmar has been extremely helpful in the setup and his recommendation was the standard actuator for me. The boat is fairly responsive to the helm, but it will load up quite a bit on a code-0 reach. So far, the Pelagic hasn't had a problem keeping up. It is certainly happier and uses less power if I back off a bit to balance the boat... but I cant help pushing it a bit when racing. I haven't been out in heavy seas with the Pelagic yet. Sloppy seas down wind with the chute up will be the test.
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