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About waXrules

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  • Birthday July 18
  1. Looking for any information stored out there in the collective. Friend just received a pre-owned Raymarine SmartPilotX-10 and it is missing some pieces. Most of the pluggable connectors for the incoming wires are missing. Does anyone know if these parts are available anywhere or who made these connectors? Thanks.
  2. The coupling nut inside the turnbuckle is nickel plated bronze. Having said that, we still lubricate when putting the mast up every year using Boeshield T-9 spray.
  3. The best you'll find for the J/28 is an old scanned copy of the original owners manual, but there isn't really much useful information in it for the electrical system. https://www.j28sailors.org/manuals-resources The manual shows some info for the mast wiring, but there are definite gaps in the info. The electrical panel location in the layout drawing shows it on the starboard side of the boat in the main cabin and mine (hull #4) is on the port side in front of the galley. Maybe you'll find some useful info.
  4. One just popped up this week at my club, but it's located in Ottawa, ON. One of those well sorted out boats where everything just works. J-24, 1988, "Roadrash CAN 4416". J-24 Roadrash CAN 4416 meticulously maintained, very competitive J-24, North Mainsail, Genoa, 2 jibs, 2 spinnakers, carbon spinnaker pole, tactic micro compass, 2008 Tohatsu 3.5Hp outboard, depth sounder, excellent running rigging, anchor, cradle ride road trailer. Boat has been dry sailed at NSC and stored indoor in the winter since 2011. A recent marine survey is available. Price $ 11,500 Cdn.
  5. The boat is a J/28. Rudder is about 52"deep by 29"wide. Probably weights in around 80lbs. Space between center of upper and lower bearings is 31". Someone just asked me why don't I make a new bearing out of fiberglass using the rudder shaft as a mold with graphite powder added to the bearing layer. Sounds like an interesting idea and I have everything needed except the graphite. Can even vacuum bag the layup around the shaft to get better consolidation in the layup.
  6. Plugged the numbers into both calculators and the numbers are the same. Only difference is the recommendation to add grooves into the shaft log for cooling. Just for fun, I plugged the dimensions into their general application calculator (https://www.vesconite.com/design-and-technical/) and the recommendation came out at 6.509" I agree that .021 seems fairly loose. I've seen a couple other recommendations suggesting just slight drag on the bearing. I will most likely be using the rudder to reinstall the bearing. The top bearing is bronze and still in place. It was only the botto
  7. Working with the Design a Bearing tool on the Vesconite website and plugging in the numbers for my boat (6.5"shaft, 7.25"tube, 3"bearing length), their recommendation is an internal diameter of 6.521". Note that I am not press fitting the bearing into the boat; will be epoxied in place. Also interesting is that the internal diameter increases to 6.539" if I select a press-fit application.
  8. Sorry, forgot to mention that the new bushing is being made of Delrin.
  9. After spending the winter tearing out wet foam and rebuilding my rudder, it is finally time to start thinking about the reinstall when the snow melts in a couple of weeks. I have contacted a local machine shop who are going to be machining a new rudder bushing. How much larger than the rudder shaft should the inside of the bushing be for a ~6.5" shaft. The machinist is going to be measuring the shaft to get an accurate measurement on the OD of the sleeve, but I need to give him the acceptable tolerance for the ID of the bushing.
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