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ryley

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About ryley

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    Super Anarchist
  • Birthday 03/01/1967

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  • Location
    Boston, MA
  • Interests
    Sailing, Photography, Sailing, Mountain Biking.. did I mention sailing?

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  1. Nice footage. it'd be nice to know the course to the next mark, very tight reach going to upwind based on the chute drops? looks like there was at least one p/s and lp/wp, and lp didn't give room for wp to a) avoid the s boat and b) make their rounding in which they had established a clear overlap. There was contact with the s boat that waited til the last minute to gybe to p, but if there was no damage then I *think* wp gets exonerated because lp didn't give them room to avoid the collision. wp protests lp and lp loses. At least, that's how I see it.
  2. which spec sheet is this? some of the radars may take direct n2k input for compass readings or something, but for the most part the connections are ethernet.
  3. @Ajax the B&G/Simrad radars are ethernet, so you would run the radar connection to the ethernet port on your Zeus3, or through a switch.
  4. try dust cover or "tethered round caps"
  5. The 310 is interesting because it's technically not an N2K device. it's output is 0183, but yes you can put a converter cable on it. Otherwise, without a terminator it would exceed the 20' max length of an N2K spur.
  6. get the maretron field installable connectors. they are a little bulky, but they are bulletproof. if you can't route your transducer cable through the boat, then you have to choose whether to cut the transducer spur or to cut your backbone and terminate that. If you're already going to use unterminated backbone cable, that might be preferable and also one less field terminal you have to install. Also, I don't think anyone's mentioned it but if you add a wired n2k wind instrument, it is terminated in the unit, so it becomes the end of your backbone. if you do something like the ws320
  7. well, you could terminate the backbone elsewhere and then just run a spur to the back of the plotter.
  8. correct, although there are micro and mini cables and plugs. my installations use micro, which I think are the cables that B&G usually supply. There *is* a difference in quality and as I go I'm replacing most of the B&G cables with Maretron - beefier and better made - although I've only had one T-fitting fail. As to the terminator stuff.. I do have two displays that are daisy-chained and they work fine, but it's technically against the rules. Maretron has a network-building app that you can download to plan it all out. Also, yes - definitely a good idea to have a breaker or
  9. Ajax, you'll need two terminators, two tees, one power tee, and a backbone that reaches from your dst to your chart plotter. you'll need a cable from the chart plotter to the T as well, but the unit may have come with one if you kept all the accessories. ignore the GPS. the box off 4 imagine is your speed transducer. it plugs into a T that is terminated. your chart plotter is at T2 and that is also terminated. you need the power T, preferably in the middle of your backbone but if it's a short run it can be closer to an end. Note that the terminators are separate from the T's so
  10. yes on the threads. It makes sense that even if datamarine weren't airmar that airmar would want to make something that is pretty compatible. I'm glad it's going to work out for you though I'm installing an 810 this winter, we'll see how well it works.
  11. it's a 2" hole. you can put any of the data from the 810 on any other nmea display including the chart plotter.
  12. I've had good luck doing exactly what your use case is with the dr. led spotlight: https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|65136|2312572|2312574&id=1380450
  13. this is similar to my B&G WS320 wireless wind story. the boat yard took the mast down and stored it with the wind instrument on it, which killed the battery. Good luck trying to get a replacement. Went to batteries and bulbs and they didn't have a direct replacement. Another guy comes over and says, "oh, we can build that for you." takes the battery so he has the right connector and puts together a $12 replacement that has worked perfectly.
  14. a bag works great on a 25' sportboat. we used one on my Elliott and launched from the companionway and all was right in the world (except of course it's a spinnaker and it's going to get wet and the nylon bag was designed to let the water through). On a 44'er that wants to be competitive? you're gonna need a squirrel and the bag doesn't let that happen. so you're into early drops and two people on the foredeck during the rounding stuffing the kite into an oversized bag through a regular sized hatch? I really only see two options. 1) get another boat 2) move to a non-spinnak
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