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sailak

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About sailak

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  • Birthday 01/01/1980

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    AK

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  1. I pressure washed part of my dodger that was slimy that I intended to replace anyway. That was 12 years ago.. I've pressure washed it a few times since then too hoping to blow a hole in it but Sunbrella is some tough shit. Not recommending of course.. And.. never pressure wash the teak, or the wood house siding...
  2. I've had some luck backing off and retorquing the hold down nut... To "spec" of course Bits of carbon get pushed under there and not really much you can do without pulling the head once it starts leaking bad. I pulled the head and shipped it off for rebuild on mine.. just under a boat buck if I recall and has been good since then. Also.. pretty sure coolant is in the mix here so if for some ungodly reason you tried to pull a sleeve make sure the coolant is drained.
  3. Tygon is a good name.. should be easy to find chemical compatibility charts. Be careful with return hydraulics. Yes it should mostly vent to atm, but if you get a kink or blockage, or the reservoir gets pressurized it is possible to generate supply side pressures.
  4. I had an O'Day 25 that had a short shaft 15hp. It was horrible, always coming out of the water etc. Got a 5hp long shaft and with 1/3 the power usually had better boatspeed in any chop. The next owner actually motored all the way from Oahu to Molokai with that little Honda 5.. great motor. I have used a 6hp short shaft on a dingy lashed alongside to move my 7 ton 30 footer.. it can do about 3-4 knots and manages ok in chop. From my experience I would never purposefully try a short shaft on a sailboat transom again except in extenuating circumstances.
  5. Oh how many times I got strange looks from the fuel dock attendance and other boaters... Until I moved to Alaska I always used a water separating funnel right in the deck fill. Having something built-in sounds neat but it is also kinda nice in an way to observe fuel quality as fill and be able to immediately detect contamination. Up here I get the some of cleanest most water free fuels I have ever seen anywhere so I stopped doing that. One exception was when I took a bulk delivery of 4000 gallons, of which 200 or so was black oily mostly water sludge. That sucked, but it was for work so at
  6. Anecdotal and not recommending... My engine and mast were secured to the hull with lag bolts. Nothing other than a few layers of laminate and some course threads holding them in. There was no evidence of failure after 35 years, including sailing around the South Pacific and the US coast from San Diego though to Alaska. Some pretty rough seas encountered by myself (one knockdown and a night on the drogue to name a couple) and I would guess the prior owners. I regularly careened the boat on beaches for maintenance which puts a lot of side load on the engine mounts. Of course I eventually
  7. Drill oversized holes for properly sized G10 tube. Epoxy in the tube and tap it.
  8. I have found Corrosion Block or Superlube to be superior to plain old dielectric. They don't wash out. Corrosion Block has been the best performer and is far easier to cleanup and apply. Both of those products are recommended by their manufactures for electrical unlike some of the other suggestions up there but hey, its a free country.
  9. I've had virtually no luck with the sticky pads, even 3M ones. I buy the cheap ones, scrape off the sticky, sand with 80 grit and use West 5 minute epoxy. You have to hold in place for a while but it works. Removal isn't as easy so choose locations wisely.
  10. Being impervious to to holding tank odor is a huge plus. I don't use it below the waterline and prefer schedule 80 when available. Protect it from potential impact damage, use it where it is appropriate, and install properly and it will last the life of the boat easy. There have been threads on this in the past.... they tend to look like anchoring threads after a while.
  11. Picked up a 4 person Jacuzzi for a really good price... It had a large crack in J shape about 6"x8" that was reportedly cause by ice in it when they tried to move it. Otherwise everything is serviceable so I figured I'd give it a try and if it fails I'm out the time and they got a free dump haul from me. So.. noting glass reinforcement visible to the wound I just dove in boat style without doing any research. I quickly learned that these are not fiberglass at all but acrylic plastic with a little reinforcement and some sort of brittle white layer up against the spray foam insulation.
  12. I noticed that after my first post but thought I'd see if the group caught that or not. Looks like they are networked via CAN-bus with the charger, to each other and to the motors. Probably best to avoid any connection at all to a 12 volt bank through any of the options discussed above. Also note that any charging with a 3rd party charger will likely void their 2 year battery warranty... Looks like keeping the house and propulsion systems completely isolated is your only real option without significant engineering and some risk acceptance, certainly technically is possible but probably no
  13. If solar charging your 48 bank is what you want to do then charge them directly with a suitable solar charger. There are many on the market that will do 48 volts. String your panels in series. Looking at something like the C Series PWM charge controller from Schneider you could have up to 125 volts DC input.. basically 5 times what people would consider "12 volt" panels wired in series. Getting a DC to DC converter going down will be a better option that going up.. somewhere 90% efficiency range.. Inverting to 120 VAC and then charging at 48 VDC sounds like the definition of inefficient,
  14. Jetsailer 45: https://anchorage.craigslist.org/boa/d/seward-sailboat-jetsailer-45/7341624805.html I can't find any info on this boat except for a an old brochure they want $35 for : https://boatbrochure.com/products/jetsailer-45-brochure. sailboat data has nothing listed for "jetsailer" and it is not an option under 'Westwind Yachts" From the brochure scan I can make out that it has 2 98hp Mitsubishi diesels. 900amp hours of batteries onboard... My real question is.. did this thing work as intended? I can't image 200 ish hp on jet drives pushing a 45 foot rather conventi
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