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Wet Spreaders

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244 F'n Saint

About Wet Spreaders

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  • Location
    SF Bay
  • Interests
    Sailing

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  1. With my luck the crucial, critical and unreplaceable part would hit the taught nylon, bounce a couple of times harmlessly and then take an unlucky hit on a strut and bounce into the water at a jaunty angle in a way that makes locating it on the bottom completely impossible.
  2. Yes! Don't hit it with anything. Heat - yes. Debond - yes Heated scraper - works well But my favorite is a cheesewire. Make a loop of cheesewire attached to a line and put the line round a winch. get the cheesewire started under the part to be moved and crank very, very slowly - a few clicks per minute. Since it's a metal part, heating will help speed things up. The great thing about the cheesewire is that it has a circular section - wont scar the deck like a scraper.
  3. Scroll down on the signup page - Hobby use is free
  4. Hmmmm - I suspect that they are setting us up to discover that Cleon is a puppet and Demerzel is the real power - achieved by manipulating/replicating Cleon. That's why we're being subjected to sympathetic character development of Dawn and Day.
  5. I would go with Fusion 360. it has a nasty learning curve to start with because it gets into modes where it wont do anything - but once you figure the modes out, its really powerful. And free! Youtube has a lot of tutorials - easy to learn by monkey-see/monkey-do.
  6. The good news is that the layer adhesion for the flex filaments is excellent. You can modulate the squashiness with perimeter count and infil density.
  7. TPU/TPE - Thermoplastic Urethane/ thermoplastic elastomer - depends on the formulation. https://www.matterhackers.com/store/c/pro-series-flex?ref=mh-nav-dd
  8. Space is big - really really big. Satellites are predictable and easy to deorbit. They are not the problem. The problem is the world militaries testing ASAT weapons and spreading shrapnel all over the place.
  9. They grow up fast. You're gonna need a bigga boat.
  10. Great work! I really like designing and printing out boat parts. Saves a lot of money and aggravation, and it's really satisfying when you get it right and something you invented just works well.
  11. I've done two versions of the MPCNC - the old one that I really liked, but left out in the sun one day when I needed shop space. It melted. And the new one that I'm still learning to love. I'm having a really hard time getting the cutting head to be stiff enough with the new design and it's hard to cut small pieces from G10 accurately due to the cutter deflection and vibration. It does a fine job on wood provided the cuts are shallow. I'm starting to lust after a Shapeoko or one of the other small desktop CNCs
  12. I use a PRUSA Mk3s and I build a lot of parts for my boat. You would be amazed how many little pieces of plastic there are on a keelboat that all cost $5 to $100 to replace when the sun or clumsy crewmember breaks them. I use ASA filament for anything structural. Strong, tough, easy to print, doesn't stink and UV safe. And I use TPU/TPE for stuff than needs to be a little resilient. Both print great on the Prusa ASA - Emergency stripper arm and nut for a Lewmar 45 evo winch - could not source a metal replacement for 3 regattas. Replacement for Harken mainsheet swivel bearing cage. Co
  13. Who paints walls with a good brush? Use a shit disposable brush for the corners, and then roller over the top. Toss both. Life's too short to be 1. Painting with a brush and 2. Being my dad and washing brushes like his dad did.
  14. OK - so that explains why they don't seem to fit conduit. Sucks, because I have a ton of the stuff spare.
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