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Everything posted by Pewit

  1. I also sail it flat-ish but try not to have the windward ama fully immersed. If it’s really light (<7 knots) I’ll sit on the front of the leeward tramp to reduce hull drag and move from there up against the mast and then to the front of the windward tramp as the wind increases. In flat water, I’ll stay forward of the shroud upwind up to about 12 knots and then move back as the wind increases or in waves. I sail it flatter downwind but also try to stay forward until it starts planing and be ready to move back quickly in the gusts. If I start to get overpowered I’ll sit on the ama
  2. “A Skiff with stabilisers” rather than yer typical monohull - because we’re closer to skiffs like the B14 and 29er in performance and sailing angles - with low speed drag until it start planing - unlike the more linear speed of a typical cat (until it tacks). And according to RaceQs my tacks (with the optional self-tacking jib and twin tiller extensions) take the same time as a B14. Although most monos can outpoint a Weta upwind. See race video for example The carbon bow protectors are an optional add-on ideal for ramming Nacras or protecting the hulls from a moori
  3. I think the flat cut gennaker helps in those conditions when the wind is swirling around - you can use it as a code zero or a gennaker and, unlike the B14, it's not so big that it starts prawning every time the wind dies. Drag is a big issue with having 3 hulls but it helps to sit on the forward edge of the tramps on the leeward side - so the windward hull is out of the water and you slightly reduce the wetted area of the main hull. There's not much as much drag from the sunken ama as there is from the main hull and you can play the kite direct. But there's always an element of luck
  4. Yes they were his Mk1 tiller extension retention system. He now uses conduit tube hooks tied under the tramps like the one below.
  5. Geoff has a reputation for being somewhat accident prone
  6. I find it's better to get on the daggerboard and (if you time it right) step into the boat as it comes up (aka "The Miranda method" from the video) - or a seal dive into the cockpit if you don't - rather than trying to get back into the boat from the water, especially if it starts sailing. But if you have to, ease the sails and grab the tiller extension to keep it from tacking, then get on the front of the unflooded ama and from there onto the tramp and into the boat. Paul
  7. I use a climbing chest harness because it has straps long anough to allow it to be worn over your PFD. There is an integrated PFD/harness from Salus in Canada but it’s not USCG approved. http://www.salusmarine.com/?products=coastal
  8. To the ring in the centre of the cockpit floor. if anyone wants to make a DIY tether, you need to find an 2m long elasticated webbing safety tether rated for your weight, with a webbing loop at one end and a quick release at the other. Then a climbing chest harness (like the Black Diamond Vario) is ideal to complete it. I have yet to find any safety tether manufacturer that makes a suitable tether off the shelf. The yachting double action hooks aren’t suitable for hooking on to the harness as they are designed to stay attached - they are suitable for clipping onto the floor hook but
  9. I think it’s highly likely to inflate just when you don’t want it on a Weta - the name is not only because it’s a NZ insect. Get a 50N PFD (70N in the USA) with a low neck so it doesn’t catch on the sail or sheets.
  10. I think the difference is, even compared to a cat, a trimaran has more stability and therefore is more likely to sail away from you if you fall off. Also many cats have a trapeze which pretty much does the same thing of keeping you attached to the boat. Finally the Weta chest harness & tether supports your back when hiking off the ama and makes hiking more comfortable - particularly on marathon events when you may have to hold the same position for some time.
  11. Having the radio on the boat is fine but if the boat has sailed away it’s not going to be much use to you. Radios are not emergency location devices - although some can transmit a location signal. Even if you have it, it’s harder to get a reliable signal unless you hold it above the water and you have to try to explain your location to rescuers. How are you going to retrieve the radio and hang on to the boat and talk to rescue all at the same time? Fortunately technology has improved since hand held radios came out in the WW2 - a PLB transmits your exact location attached to the shou
  12. I think the fact that he wasn’t wearing a PFD means that there was no alternative other than to stay attached to the boat. if you’re wearing a PFD, you have enough buoyancy to float even if you’re too exhausted to swim. If you have a PLB or InReach attached to the PFD you can detach from the boat instead of ingesting water and summon help. https://media.amsa.gov.au/media-release/solo-yachtsman-saved-personal-locator-beacon-life-jacket
  13. To be fair to Peter, it was in protected waters on a lake with rescue cover - you have to balance out the risk of being trapped by the harness (Geoff Waldon had the tether wrapped around the shroud and his foot as the boat turtled - see video If you’re dragged under you could drown before a rescue boat could get to you. If you’re in the water wearing a PFD but separated from the boat, it may take a while for them to get you, but you’re unlikely to drown. However, if you’re sailing alone in open water with no rescue cover but other boats around and emergency services, ther
  14. Insulated Artic heated diving dry suit with heated dry sealed gloves would be my recommendation - but I still wouldn’t do it!
  15. I use a clamp on the trailer as well as a hidden GPS tracker. If it moves out of zone I get an SMS and can track it.
  16. I used to launch my Weta Trimaran by rolling it onto a floating dock reached by a 2M wide gantry (the Weta is 1.98M wide on the trolley). Then I'd assemble the boat to it's full 4m x 5m size - this used to piss off the fisherman and party boats but it meant I could cycle to the boat in 5 minutes downhill and keep it "moored on the road" on the trailer across the adjacent park. Have you thought of getting aluminium folding ramps to help you to launch down the steps? Getting back up would be a bit harder. But you could have a pole you slid through the railings at the top either s
  17. I'm a WSC member and while they do make money off the kayaks (not many paddleboards as thankfully that fad seems to have died down) but they don't take much space. Windsurfing seems to be making a comeback and Wing Foiling is growing. But many people mix and match as their lifestyle, wallet and competition for time allows - which can only be a good thing to keep them on the water in one way or another. The Finns and (recently) OK fleets are keeping their numbers as well as the Moth/Wazsp and Tasar fleets. Skiffs in general seem to have fallen away but there's a growing youth program for
  18. I’ve found in really light winds (<5knots) you can gain by sitting on the tramp at the front of the leeward ama as this - raises the windward ama reducing drag - Reduces the wetted area of the main hull slightly to reduce drag as the shape of the ama develops less drag than the main hull (think of cat hulls vs mono hulls) - Allows you to see the entire Gennaker so you can take the sheet directly from the clew and keep it filled. - Helps to keep the shape of the main and jib. - Since the ama is now providing lateral resistance you can raise the Daggerboard higher.
  19. Try using RaceQs on your phone to track and analyse your race. If you can get others to run it. You can compare tracks and it also gives stats on tacking and gybing performance. I put the phone below deck in a waterproof bag and preset the start time in the RaceQs app which is free. https://raceqs.com
  20. There’s a nice article on Sail World here
  21. My 15 seconds of fame :-) it wasn’t really a Weta day with light and flukey winds with all the chop from the boat traffic. The best bit was the very tight kite reach back to the sailing club. :-)
  22. I've got one of the Vanheim locks and tried it on my original boat - the problem is that it's designed for a large knot and the slot for the sheave through the mast is quite narrow - I had to file it to widen it but the knot would still occasionally catch while trying to lower the sail. Dyneema is stronger than steel and I've not heard of a knot failing if they kept the right size - if it won't catch in the v, then just tie another knot over the first. The worst that can happen is the sail drops a bit - which is much less inconvenient than having the entire sail slide down the mast as hap
  23. Description with links to instructions for required splices http://wetaforum.com/forums/topic/dyneema-leader-for-mainsail-halyard/
  24. McLube or dry silicon spray may help and won't leave a residue but Tom's suggestion to retie the tramps will probably help. I often find that tightening the tramp attachment lines after sailing for a while is usually a good idea just to take up any slack and also I repeat it between races. The wire leaded (strop) hasn't been used for the main halyard for the past 2 years since it was prone to failure when the swage came undone (happened to me at the World Masters Games when my boat was less than 6 months old). Many owners (and Weta Marine) switched to a Dyneema core Halyard which
  25. You can avoid damage to the rudder on sandbars by adopting the bungee auto-kickup system - just wrap thick 8mm bungee three times around the stock and foil and it will kick up when you hit something but go back down again. Slide the bungee to the bottom gudgeon to stop the foil rising at speed - slide it up to the "horn" of the foil to keep it flipped up. https://www.wetaforum.com/forums/topic/bungee-rudder-kickup-system/
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