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Everything posted by Pewit

  1. Solution: Get a new set of sails and some mast track from East Coast https://www.eastcoastsailboats.com
  2. I think the easy way to do that would be to tie it the gennaker halyard to the transom bar while you hoist - although I can see that the head of the main could get stuck on the halyard. Also I copied one of our leading sailors at the Australian Nationals last week who had moved the side stay adjusters to the second hole from the bottom which induces significant mast bend. Certainly made a difference to my pointing ability.
  3. No but I intend to. I’ve found it help to leave the Gennaker halyard slack when raising the SQ main as it allows more flex at the mast head. Regards Paul
  4. The battens are not tapered although the top one is thinner as the original one supplied was too stiff.
  5. Which converted back into rest of world measurements makes the Pinhead 8.3 SqM and the Square Top 8.7 SqM. Hmmmmm!
  6. That hasn't been the experience in our fleet and we have had back-to- back testing - we had 19 boats at the Australian Weta Nationals racing in conditions ranging from 5-10 knots to 25+. I've also raced at the same lake location with offshore winds blowing over 25 knots (so flat water) and I tried a pinhead - the Square tops did not loose out upwind and were faster off it. As you know, the aerodynamics of the Square Top are just more efficient at the top of the mast compared to the pinhead - otherwise why would every development class in the world have switched to square top sails? If
  7. I usually sit on the back of the amas downwind because you can keep your weight back and out at the same time. If it’s blowing over (say) 25 knots and rough then you have to move to the back of the main hull to keep the nose from digging in - although you also have to go more downwind as you can’t counter the heal so much. if you have the harness you can go for the “widow maker” position astride the rear ama upright. But if all depends on the doughnut factor.
  8. Steve bought my old 2009 boat (while waiting for a new one in the container) which I had been using as a loaner for demos. It came with an early Norths Jib and the clew tore off (not sure why) and the sail started sliding up the forestay. He managed to finish but the wind was getting up and he couldn’t get the sail down or tack. Just before getting into the shallows near an island, he tried to gybe but instead accelerated into a rock which pushed the Daggerboard back - slicing open the Daggerboard slot leaving a hole in the bottom of the hull and a chunk out of the Daggerboard. Also broke
  9. I went to my local shoe repair place and he wanted the same amount for new soles as it would cost me for a new pair of boots :-(
  10. I have a friend who has one - unless you’re sailing long legs downwind it really is more hassle than it’s worth. You’d get more benefit from upgrading to the 9.3 Square Top mainsail (if you haven’t already done so) as that improves performance upwind and downwind.
  11. My Gill Edge boots have been great but after a year of use, the ridges in the grip of the sole has worn in some places making them slippery at times. Rather than just binning them, is there any way of getting a retread or glueing a new sole to the boot as I’ve seen done for climbing boots?
  12. RaceQs replay does a pretty good job of calculating the wind direction based on your tacking patterns and you can manually change it on a per-leg basis. It also gives you useful anaysis of tacks and gybes: tacking angle, oversteering deg, min VMG, min SOG, duration, recovery time, time lost - although it's best if you have the phone in a fixed central position rather than using a watch for the latter because of the effect on the track of crossing a wide boat like the Weta. https://raceqs.com/race-analytics/ The app uses a rule based algorithm which assesses the likely wind directi
  13. It depends on the country. The North America, Australian and French class rules permit any equipment to be used as long as it does not act directly on the foils or sails. The International Class Rules only allow compass and timing devices and GPS for recording only. However, they may not be permitted under the Sailing Instructions of a regatta. I use the RaceQs app for tracking on an iPhone in a Catalyst waterproof case in a dry bag below deck and set the tracker timer to start at the first race start. You get much more accurate data having it below deck compared to a watch since cro
  14. The problem on the Weta is trying to keep your eye on the water and sail trim and looking at your wrist while going at speed. There are mast-mounted instruments that show VMG (Velocitek Prostart, Novosail NS-START as well as new digital display products such as the Sailmon Max but not cheap. If you do have a Garmin watch then also look at RaceQs Watch app which provides Start and Performance data as well as tracking and analytics. https://raceqs.com/smart-watch/ https://apps.garmin.com/en-US/apps/74c474f8-4140-4794-afb7-f56817083bd5 However, I think keeping it simple is
  15. I'm running a poll on the Australian Weta Class FB Group - so far 17 for cleating when racing and 2 for not. My recommendation for beginners: Upwind (as long as you're not in very windy, gusty conditions) cleat the main but hang on to the sheet to release if required. Make sure the Becket angle is adjusted so you can uncleat from anywhere on the boat. Ease to bear away and round up - sheet in and re-cleat once headed downwind/upwind. Downwind, It's more important to have the gennaker sheet in your hand ready to ease/dump/sheet in - although Randy Smyth suggests cleating it and
  16. I’d also add to Keith’s cleated method that the skipper of one of the other leading boats in the Australian fleet, who often wins (despite still undergoing treatment for cancer) also cleats the mainsheet as does our dealer in Victoria and so do I.
  17. I think you still have problems getting the knot in the V cleat. 1. Check that the knot is large enough to catch in the V 2. When hoisting the main, pull it right up to the very top of the mast then look up the mast and place the halyard against the middle of the mast so the halyard is in the jaws of the v and hold it there with one hand. 3. Grab the foot of the sail with the other hand and pull it down to trap the knot in the V. - If the sail keeps sliding down repeat until it doesn’t. Then tie off the tail on the mast cleat. See 2.1.4 Rigging the Mainsail in the manual.
  18. Most surface scratches can be buffed out with a rubbing compound (I use Meguiar's Ultimate Compound ). If it’s deeper, then you can use increasingly fine Weta and dry paper (used wet) starting with 400grit and working up to 2500, then rubbing compound. Use the paper and compound with a sanding block or orbital sander. Deeper scratches require filling with gelcoat with the correct pigment. You should have received a small jar of pigment with the boat - if not contact your dealer. Theres a document on gelcoat care here as well as Video Tutorials https://www.wetamari
  19. Yes I saw the 18 fleet heading down wind from the windward mark all on starboard and decided it was safer to tack rather than try to cross them. You can just spot me in the distance behind Smeg at 38.40 mins I had the best start ever racing with a B14 and FD in race 1 - first round the windward mark but couldn’t hold the B14 on the downwind leg with their big kite. They went down the mineshaft in race two but caught me on the final gybe to the finish when the wind softened. Video to follow once I’ve brightened it up a bit - it was really gloomy yesterday but mostly flat wa
  20. Try loosely tying the jib while you raise the main - it makes it easier as you have more flex in the mast tip. Then raise the Gennaker as this pulls the mast tip forward and finally, tighten the forestay pulling downwards. The amas should rise in their sockets. Try fitting the main halyard in the V cleat when it’s down so you can see what’s going on and can measure the distance from the top of the mast- it should be around 10cm. Tip: Tape 3” sections of pool noodle onto the hiking straps and tie the straps together at the middle with a loop of shock cord so the straps are pulled cle
  21. Yes but *some* of you have extensive on board insulation permanently attached.
  22. I think the problem with the harness for Weta is the cost of liability insurance for the US market. I have one and use it for sailing offshore solo or on long distance events. But if I sailed offshore solo regularly, I’d get a PLB attached to the PFD for rescue. Much better to have a single button to push than trying to get a signal on a VHF radio while in the water. You could DIY your own harness using a climbers chest harness (eg Black Diamond Vario) and and elasticated safety strap with quick release - although you might need to replace the snap hook on the inboard end with a
  23. The harness is no longer available from Weta due to liability issues if someone became trapped in a capsize. However, putting a hand hood on the side stay can help you to get back on the tramp.
  24. If you haven’t already found it, you may find the rigging video helpful. https://youtu.be/HEb-Dl73iWU Also read the section on speeding up rigging in the manual as it can save you time. Q1 The trick with the stays falling out of the mast is to loop the excess shroud wire in front of the forward ama arm (as shown in the video). So when you lift the mast the you can lift while holding the side stays to start and then keep hold of the forestay with the lower hand. Once the mast is upright in the mast step, look up to check the t-balls are properly located (with the tangs hangi
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