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Everything posted by Pewit

  1. Yes but it does give some eye strain and it’s always a relief to take them out after sailing - although it has improved with time. But it’s certainly much better than trying to wear multi-focal glasses which just fog up and aren’t as effective. The Gill Marker sun specs float, have a hydrophobic coating on the lens and have a gap in the frame which lets air circulate (possibly by creating a Venturi) that stops them fogging up downwind. You can DIY with a cheap pair of specs by cutting off the corner of the lens.
  2. I may have poor memory but even I can remember the tacking angle of the last tack ;-)
  3. I agree about having your head out of the boat and having telltales on the shrouds - I use flagging tape available from hardware stores for marking out building sites. I have 2x Ritchie X-Port analogue compasses which I used at the World Masters Games when digital instruments weren't allowed (go figure - we are in the 21st centaury!). I had one mounted on each ama for hiking days, and Dual Lock to mount one on the bow for light wind days. However, given that your head is going to be at least 2m from the base of the mast if you are hiking from the amas, instead of squinting to read t
  4. Upwind, generally go for speed over height - especially in waves. Downwind come up for speed and then bear away for VMG and repeat in a series of S-bends while also trying to use the waves. If you don't have access to a Speedpuck, try running RaceQs on the phone or watch (you can also upload a GPS track) which allows you to analyse your performance. It's free - for best results set it going (it has a timer) and then put the phone below deck in a waterproof case and/or dry bag. You may need to create a fake "course" from your track in order to be able to view the analytics so Rac
  5. The main halyard ends in a loop for the shackle which you use to attach the eye at the head of the mainsail. The knot should be 25cm from the end. Pull the mainsail it all the way up with the halyard alongside the front of the mast then grab the foot of the mainsail and pull it down to check the knot has caught in the V-cleat on the mast. I suspect it hasn't done so in your photo which is why the mainsail has slipped down the mast. Refer to the manual for more info and photos. https://tinyurl.com/wetamanual2021 The US rules allow modification to the running rigging whereas the rules in mo
  6. Nice - If you haven't already found it, the revised manual may help you. tinyurl.com/wetamanual2021
  7. The only development seems to be of the Watch App which is a separate development by Alan Smith in Australia. https://www.facebook.com/RaceQs-Watch-App-Beta-1686063161677280/ If RaceQs had followed the fremium business model of iRegatta and others I think it would have been a much better business. I note that Julia Berg who made the tutorial videos and was Director of Marketing Communications at RaceQs is no longer at the company. https://www.linkedin.com/in/julia-berg-09215329 Probably didn't help that it was based in the USA where the main market is in Europe - more regat
  8. Not according to the class rules
  9. The top batten was replaced with a thinner section a few months after the first batch of sails was released and dealers were supplied with additional battens for customer who had already bought the sail. Sure there is more luff curve than the Pinhead but I don’t find it excessive and it is possible to capsize in waves in a blow as the head of the sail acts as a lever to push the bow down. The solution is to get your weight well back and not let the main out bear away to spill some wind.
  10. I now think I had the main on too much for the conditions - would have been better to spill some wind in the main and get less healing motion.
  11. You were overtaking boat as we approached the next mark as I had sailed a faster angle after gybing later.
  12. Yes he did - although I think I could have luffed him away from the next mark (not in video) as he was windward boat and then turned into the zone so he had no overlap- but it was a very short leg and it wouldn’t have been polite. We’ve standardised on the SQ sail for Class events and it’s quicker upwind because of better air flow off the top of the mast and faster downwind - especially in marginal planing conditions. The only time it’s a problem is in winds over 25 knots and waves where the pressure on the top of the mast helps to bury the nose - the solution is to get your weight
  13. So this forum says post here if you can't find the information in the Help Section - but where is the Help Section? I thought there used to be a way of positing YouTube links (using a button for "video/media") which would show the preview but now there's no button and previews are not showing, just the link.
  14. Another view from the same race https://youtu.be/9mmpDPExaWo
  15. Agreed. And the point I made when comparing prices between Australia and the US in my previous post, is that pricing is very similar excluding the trailer. Which is a better comparison as Weta don’t supply trailers.
  16. The price for a new Weta in standard colours at East Coast Sailboats in NC is $16,200 ready to sail with pinhead main. https://www.eastcoastsailboats.com/product/weta-trimaran-complete/
  17. There have been unprecedented delays in production caused by the global supply issues and Covid - some suppliers factories in Europe closed down during lockdowns and production at the Weta factory in Batam was also affected - although all staff are now vaccinated. Also the global shipping issues caused problems with materials - for example, a container of adhesives from the USA was delayed in transit and after 28 days (normally it arrives in a 10-14) the dry ice coolant ran out so it all went off. The factory is now running 24/7 in two shifts to separate the workforce but demand for
  18. The price for a new Wets in Australia is around the same as in the US without a trailer. I can’t find this ad currently but if it was the one in South Australia, it was almost unused. (I think the buyer had a lot of money but not much sailing experience). Paul in Sydney
  19. You could also put some salt where the water collects to raise the freezing point of the water - then flush it out in the spring #ScienceRules
  20. You could try inserting solid foam pool noodles to keep the water out
  21. Where is the sailing center? Yes they are very forgiving and hard to capsize even in strong winds. But you can still get caught out in gusty conditions- righting is easy solo without assistance - see the video here https://www.wetamarine.com/owners-locker/video/locker/30 If it’s an older boat it probably comes with the 8.3SqM Pinhead mainsail. The 9.3SqM Square Top main is available for higher performance and there’s a small 6.5SqM main for training or high winds. There’s also a furling jib available for quickly reducing sail or you can just remove the jib entirely and sail on m
  22. I gave up on the rod after sailing through a school of big jellyfish going downwind at speed - trying to steer and put the rod down for the fifth time was no fun. Bungee system just gives a thunk if you hit something and you can carry on sailing. Try these links https://www.kiteguys.ca/gwk-fiberglass-round-rod-assorted-sizes/ https://www.thomasnet.com/ontario/fiberglass-reinforced-plastic-frp-rods-68700608-1.html http://www.mapleleafcom.com/fiberglass_products.shtml https://www.grainger.ca/en/category/Fiberglass-Rod-Stock/Fiberglass/c/21123 https://www.rayplex.ca/pulturs
  23. To avoid damaging the stock, dispense with the lockdown rod system and use the Bungee Auto Kickup system instead. No damage when you hit something and it allows you to keep on sailing after an impact - instead of having to try to lockdown the rod and keep steering at the same time. Remove the rod mechanism entirely. Wrap thick (8mm) bungee cord three times tightly around the stock and blade between the gudgeons. Slide the bungee to the top gudgeon to raise the rudder when it pulls against the "horn" on top of the rudder blade. Slide it to the bottom gudgeon after launching to keep the foi
  24. I use these floating Gill Marker sunglasses which have a cutout vent in the corner of the lens that prevents them fogging up on the downwind leg while keeping the spray out of your eyes on my very wet, Weta Trimaran. Polarized lens, hydrophobic outer coating that sheds water and reduces salt residue, Oleophobic coating repel fingerprints, sun lotion and skin oils https://www.gillmarine.com/marker-sunglasses/
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