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Everything posted by Pewit

  1. My usual trick is pickle forking a moored boat of which there are many near my sailing club. My golden rule is NEVER put your head in the boat unless you’re hove too in clear water. Oh and fit the carbon ama protectors - you’ll need them.
  2. Have a look at the Weta World Map here and contact [email protected] with your details for them to pass on to Weta owners near you. https://www.wetamarine.com/weta-owners/#map
  3. I now use the twin tillers but was one of the first (I think) to develop a bridle which the Aussie team used at the World Masters Games although Martin Cross developed the yacht-style version. Pic shows my original version which involves tying the tails of the bridle to the Dyneema loop under the mainsheet block either side with a bowline, but it was difficult to get the line in the same place each time. You'll need around 4m of 4 or 5mm rope - any thinner and it won't hold in the cleat. However, Weta now use a version of the block with a pivoting spigot under at the base to which a (rath
  4. Oops my mistake. You are correct and I should have checked.
  5. Geoff Waldon has one of the Weta 16.9 kites which I’m sure you could borrow to try it out. He finds it too much effort sailing solo but it might work for you two-up.
  6. Not that I’m aware of. But if you snuffed without furling or dropping the kite you’d end up with a big bag of laundry hanging on the bow which wouldn’t do much for wind flow.
  7. This explains why I’ve had difficulty keeping up with the 29er on downwind legs but they are a good sparring partner in mixed fleet racing as the Weta is as fast or faster upwind. There is the optional 16.9SqM Weta Gennaker available but unless you’re on a long course or have a crew member it’s a PITA sailing solo as you have to drop it after furling. Paul #1300
  8. My eyesight isn’t good enough to read the Ritchie compass accurately from the mast foot when my head is over 2m away while hiking from the amas. I tried using two of them mounted on each tramp using kayak mounts during the World Masters where digital instruments weren’t allowed. But it’s much easier to read a number from a display on an angled screen (Tacktick or Prism) compared with trying to work out which tick you lined up with last tack. Paul
  9. You can’t use a GPS while racing under the class rules but you can use it to record your races - so either run the free RaceQs app on your phone/smartwatch in a (put the phone in Catalyst waterproof cover below deck in a dry bag). The Raymarine T060 TackTick or Velocitek Prism compasses are ideal because you need the angled screens to be able to read it easily while hiking from the ama. I prefer to wear a large display start watch because you’re a long way from the mast and it’s easier to set/reset/start than having to sit by the mast. Wear it on your right wrist so you can read it from y
  10. It depends on wind strength - coming up for planing speed and bearing away for VMG in a series of s bends is the most common tip I’ve heard as well as aggressively using waves. in light winds when you can’t plane, low and slow may be better and sometimes I’ve used wing- wing with the kite in such conditions but you need a longer mainsheet to stop it from gybing. In drifter conditions, I’ve found sitting at the front of the leeward tramp to reduce drag by raising the windward ama and raising the stern while playing the kite direct from the clew to keep it filling works - although not
  11. There's a used Weta Buyers Guide here http://www.wetaforum.com/wiki/weta-wiki/buying-a-used-weta/ If you can find one, the Singapore-built boats (<#1000) are better quality than the Chinese ones. Early boats (<#500 approx) are lighter built but a bit fragile. Although as you can see from some forum posts, it's not hard to repair them if you have fibreglass repair skills or follow tutorials on YouTube.
  12. I've switched from the fixed bridle to the Weta twin tiller extension setup and it's taken a bit of used to - notably trying to remember not to take the tiller with you! I've made a few mods which may help http://wetaforum.com/forums/topic/twin-tiller-extension-kit-mods/ I've also been playing around with the ring bungee attachment point by threading it through different loops on the tramp edge and then adjusting the bungee length. So for example when it's windy, I use an outer loop so that there's more force to prevent the extension from being swept off the tramp.
  13. Totally agree Tom. We have a local sailor who starts rigging an hour before everyone else. If you double the length of the tramp ties to the hull through the trampoline edge, you can leave them attached and, after inserting the ama arms, just pull the slack through at one end, cleat it off and roll the excess around your hand like the halyards. More tips here https://www.wetaforum.com/forums/topic/how-to-speed-up-rigging-your-weta/ Paul #1300
  14. Further update: I have now replaced the bottom 40cm of track with alloy track from the 29er. The Weta bolt rope is just a bit too thin for the black plastic track and tended to pull out. The alloy track opening doesn't flex as much and you can close it up with a mole grips or a vice. The Square Top sail no longer jumps out with the alloy track fitted.
  15. I have a Self Tacker and Twin Tiller Extensions on my new boat. I agree about the ST issue of not being able to put the boat hove too as I often used it on starts to make a controlled slow approach to the line and then release just before the start. Or to do stuff between races. I’m going to try adding a stop that can temporarily hold the slide at one end of the track using the holes in the track which will work for taking a break. But I also use crossover jib sheets and wondered if I can use the tails to temporarily tie the jib clew to the forward ama upright so it can be used
  16. I think we’re getting confused between Twin Tiller EXTENSIONS and Twin Tillers. Wetas use Twin Tiller Extensions not Twin Tillers..
  17. They are also used on many skiffs and the Weta shares similar layout to a skiff as it's equally wide. About 20% of sailors have been using them in Australia as the issue of having to pass the tiller round the stern while trying to face forward makes efficient tacking difficult - in addition to slowing the boat as you have to put your weight on the stern - especailly in light wind. Also for two up sailors twin tiller means the crew doesn't get hit on the head with every tack. In August last year, Weta introduced their own twin tiller extension kit as they had resolved the issue of po
  18. I’ve switched from the bridle to twin tillers with my new boat. However, after trying with various iterations, I used my original bridle setup for convenience - as you can set it up and adjust easily after rigging the boat. Tie a small Ronstan Shock in the middle of a 3m 5mm line. Use Dyneema to lash the block to the mainsheet block. Take the tails of the line and wrap them around the ama arms either side (start under from the rear and exit at the front under the trap) and then through the trolley tie down cleat and pull taught. Mark the cleat position on the line. You may
  19. You may find this thread on outboard motors and brackets useful on the Wetaforum. http://wetaforum.com/forums/topic/outboard-motors-and-brackets/ Personally, I’ve only used a telescopic paddle but I can understand the need for something requiring less effort.
  20. I think either you didn't have the bungee tight enough, not enough turns or didn't slide it down to the bottom pintle - it want to be set so that it requires considerable force to lift the foil when the blade is down and the bungee slid down. The bungee proved itseld recently when we were racing in a salt-water lake with schools of big jellyfish (aka blubber jellyfish) and I hit at least 10 of them, some really hard when moving fast - those using the rod kept having to stop and re-fix it whereas I could carry on.
  21. Try using the "fork" with the bungee to keep it in the half down position as suggested above and then remove the fork and slide the bungee down when you get into deeper water. I find the rod is a PITA when half down as it snags ropes and can damage the horn of the foil if it catches as can repeated impacts. The bungee setup makes it much eaiser when approaching the beach as you only have to deal with the daggerboard.
  22. Go fir a 4th turn of bungee and/or tension it more so that it can rise up. You have to remember to slide it down to the bottom pintle after launch. I’ve tested it in winds over 30 knots without issue except if you get seaweed wrapped around it.
  23. A further development of the above that allows you to steer in shallow water is to keep the “fork” on the end of the bar attached to the foil. Wrap some butyl tape around to provide cushioning then, with the bungee slid to the top pintle, flip it down between the foil and the stock to stop the rudder rising completely which holds the blade in the water enough to steer (don’t make any hard turns as you could damage the stock). Once in deeper water, you can flip the fork out of the way and slide the bungee down to hold the blade down.
  24. The workaround is to remove the rod and use the “Bungee Auto-Kickup System” Wrap thick bungee cord (at least 6mm) around the foil and stock between the pintles. It needs to be tight enough so that the foil doesn’t lift under normal loads when the bungee loops are slid to the bottom pintle after launch. On impact it allows the foil to raise but return to the normal position. To raise fully, pull the foil tip up and the bungee slides up to rest on the “horn” of the foil and hold it up. If you need to raise the foil to approach a ramp or beach, tie a line to the top of the horn an
  25. Try using he free RceQs App to record and analyse your tracks. The replay provides VMG so you can see which angle is faster as well as a “Groove” indicator which shows you are sailing your optimal course. https://raceqs.com/race-analytics/
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