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jamhass

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About jamhass

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  1. Hmmm ... My old Raymarine paddle wheel (Airmar unit) had just that kind of thru hull: flappy door inside to help keep the water out. Helped, but not by much. I guess its tough to come up with a door that both seals tight enough to be effective, but still allow the sensor to get past it.
  2. Palmar is, as I recall, owned by the Abaroas. So same caution as before. I agree, Bercovich's yard is "raw" compared to Abaroa (or Fonatur for that manner.) But Abel knows his stuff, does good work, and has never dropped a boat, even in hurricanes.
  3. There's also these: https://www.woodcraft.com/products/screw-extractor-5-16 Work well in wood, likely single-use in FG, as they are hardened and brittle, but with care work very well. These rotate counter-clockwise and often unscrew the broken bit before boring through.
  4. What Zonker said, go with Bercovich, avoid Abaroa. Had work done by both, Gotta watch Abaroa like a hawk, Bercovich fixed what Abaroa short-cutted. Abel, the owner is very capable and professional. Nice guy underneath a sometimes acerbic approach, just bear with him and all will be well. There is a yard at Marina Palmira, but although it allows DIY, has had problems dropping boats, especially in storms. There is also a Fonatur yard and marina deep in the bay. No direct experience with them.
  5. Depending how deep one wants to go ... One idea I have seen put to good use is to add a "plinth" to each chainplate. This is say 1/4 - 1/2 inch preform FG plate, nicely tapered smoothed etc, epoxied where the existing top plate goes. This effectively raises the entry point for the water a bit above the deck, and adding some "caulking" length to the seal, both leaking to less leakage. The original caulking, etc is as before, the top plates attach just as before, just now screwed into the plinth.
  6. I once had a section of the hull where bottom paint kept flaking off. Turned out to be an area where the barrier coat was left to dry too long and paint would no longer adhere well. Sanded well, reapplied barrier coat, primed and painted as recommended. No issues in 10 years.
  7. Sorry no photos available but We had short bits of aluminum angles attached to the floor stringers. A socket head screw recessed into the hatch that secures an aluminum tab between two nuts and lock washers. Fender washers for wear as appropriate. Adjust to fit. Operate with a hex key secured in a convenient place.
  8. The Wichard product claims to re-passivate as I recall. Expensive, but works great and goes a long way.
  9. Once the heavy rust is removed, coat with Collonite Metal Wax. Really great stuff, and removes light rust very nicely without damaging the passivated layer. Their insulator wax is particularly effective at keeping rust away, especially when used after metal wax.
  10. Flame on: https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f152/brent-swain-36-pilothouse-248806.html
  11. Look up "Brick House Valiant" on YouTube. Among his many excellent videos is one on blister repairs on his early V40.
  12. Out Valiant 40 was a joy to sail. Many times we (often just me) were out sailing along nicely when others were high-tailing it to the nearest anchorage. She pointed nicely, easy to balance (we once went 15 miles without touching the helm), delightful surfing (that beautiful bustle just lifted the stern nicely allowing the wave to gently pass), stable in the poundies. Don't know anything about the GW, but hard to believe she sails better. Faster/quicker maybe, but unlikely, and certainly not "better." Maybe Bob will chime in?
  13. When I made my cabin fans (cheap 12v brushless muffins in a teak frame) I ended up making them 2-speed with a single-pole double throw (center off) small switch and a simple (and very cheap) single-value resistor. Used a pot just to decide the right value for the resistance. Never found a need for more variability. Plus, nothing to fail, especially if you coat the connections with something appropriate.
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