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jamhass

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About jamhass

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  1. Last time this happened to me, I ran the stereo to max, put on some low-bit-rate bagpipe music and donned my noise-cancelling headphones. 15 minutes later, the little anchorage was all mine.
  2. Dinty Moore Beef Stew. A can last for-ev-er. My wife says I can eat it only as I step into the life raft. We keep a can on board as a reminder ...
  3. I dunno, but faster than my boat. Start from there and start subtracting numbers until the competition quits bitchin'
  4. Even ignoring voltage conversion efficiencies, laptops are very often one of the heaviest electrical drawn on board. Best leave them mostly off if on a low-e budget.
  5. I used an overboard zinc (an old hull zinc) when in a marina, mainly as a tell-tale. If there is a hot boat nearby, the overboard zinc shows erosion as a warning. I mounted a bronze screw out of the way in a cockpit cubby and wired it to a good ground, and I clip the zinc to that. This system has alerted me to nearby electrical issues, more than once resulting in moving to slips farther away from the offenders.
  6. I had an old Forespar adjustable whisker pole with internal rigging that was shot. Called Forespar to inquire about parts and they sent me all the internals (line, sheaves, misc bits and pieces) for free. Maybe worth a try. Course, none of the parts made the pole any lighter...
  7. Should be able to look at a bilge hatch to tell. We used wipe-on poly for our vertical surfaces. Love it. Easy to apply, dries fast. Used it fairly often, as we would reapply to spots that started to look worn or tired. Never a problem. Saved varnish for real wear areas, such as handholds, fiddles, and edge trim.
  8. As MiddayGun said, there is a special cutter to resurface the sealing surfaces on the insert without the need to remove/replace the copper sleeve. I don't know where to find one, the old mechanic I used to fix this same problem (2003T engine) was in Mexico and had lots of weird old diesel stuff. Maybe look for a mechanic as old as me?
  9. My diver in La Paz Mexico does this all the time to install/replace thru-hulls. He replaced a seacock for me with the boat in the water and didn't get a drop of water in the boat -- OK maybe 3 drops. But he uses a plastic salad bowl and a bit of toilet-ring wax to seal it against the hull.
  10. Or these https://gemlux.com/collections/miscellaneous-hinges/products/139
  11. There are high-density foams used in high (compressive) load areas. Had them under my cabin-top mounted winches. Really strong stuff, yet still much lighter than other options.
  12. At least for epirbs mmsi numbers obtained from boat us etc are not for use outside the US. I suspect that holds true for all vhs use outside the US. Were me, i would use my boat mmsi
  13. What Zonk said, but on #4 (film can) just drill and tap some extra holes in the static part to hold the "extra" screws when broken down.
  14. Another vote for a side-tied dink. Saved my bacon more than once.
  15. EDM salvaged a similarly broken bolt in my 1959 Lotus (aluminum block) engine! Even left the original threads undamaged. Plus, given the cost (now like $50) for a metric helicoil, and the potential for busting through to the water jacket, go with the EDM.
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