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Everything posted by jamhass

  1. I prefer BUD for cleaning. IPA is for drinking after/during/before long project.
  2. Another vote for TankTender. They offer an option for black water tanks. Easy, simple and reliable.
  3. Did that trip in reverse some many years ago (albeit not solo.) As I recall, no overnights until south of Sandy Hook, so no real fatigue issues. Also, I soloed Sea of Cortez and Mex Riviera for several years, including many solo 300 mile crossings and bar crossings. You will be just fine. Only real comments to your preps: 1. a stern anchor may be useful, but not likely needed on this trip. 2. An anchor buoy can be very useful especially in crowded anchorages.
  4. Just a wild-aaa-thought, but isn't that essentially what a solar MPPT controller does? i.e. take a potentially high DC voltage / low amperage current and output a regulated lower voltage / higher current output tailored to the battery?
  5. We left the boat in the water in La Paz, BCS over the summer. Osprey decided my boat was the spot. Seems when ospreys need to dump, they fly off and unload with the second flap of the wings. Fortunately (for us, not so much for our neighbors) that took it directly over our neighbor's boat. Marina manager kept telling them to hire a boat cleaner, they refused. Even having seen the mess I didn't hardly believe it.
  6. I had a TR3 just like that! Good thing the top was shot, kept me from being asphyxiated from the fumes.
  7. Heinlein's : Methuselahs Children, Time Enough for Love
  8. These are bus bars, don't isolate anything, and not sure how you could. Calling all electrical engineers...
  9. Maybe he should start by buying one of Yrvind's old boats.
  10. And maybe a bit of sail lube as the new jib is raised?
  11. Hmmm ... My old Raymarine paddle wheel (Airmar unit) had just that kind of thru hull: flappy door inside to help keep the water out. Helped, but not by much. I guess its tough to come up with a door that both seals tight enough to be effective, but still allow the sensor to get past it.
  12. Palmar is, as I recall, owned by the Abaroas. So same caution as before. I agree, Bercovich's yard is "raw" compared to Abaroa (or Fonatur for that manner.) But Abel knows his stuff, does good work, and has never dropped a boat, even in hurricanes.
  13. There's also these: https://www.woodcraft.com/products/screw-extractor-5-16 Work well in wood, likely single-use in FG, as they are hardened and brittle, but with care work very well. These rotate counter-clockwise and often unscrew the broken bit before boring through.
  14. What Zonker said, go with Bercovich, avoid Abaroa. Had work done by both, Gotta watch Abaroa like a hawk, Bercovich fixed what Abaroa short-cutted. Abel, the owner is very capable and professional. Nice guy underneath a sometimes acerbic approach, just bear with him and all will be well. There is a yard at Marina Palmira, but although it allows DIY, has had problems dropping boats, especially in storms. There is also a Fonatur yard and marina deep in the bay. No direct experience with them.
  15. Depending how deep one wants to go ... One idea I have seen put to good use is to add a "plinth" to each chainplate. This is say 1/4 - 1/2 inch preform FG plate, nicely tapered smoothed etc, epoxied where the existing top plate goes. This effectively raises the entry point for the water a bit above the deck, and adding some "caulking" length to the seal, both leaking to less leakage. The original caulking, etc is as before, the top plates attach just as before, just now screwed into the plinth.
  16. I once had a section of the hull where bottom paint kept flaking off. Turned out to be an area where the barrier coat was left to dry too long and paint would no longer adhere well. Sanded well, reapplied barrier coat, primed and painted as recommended. No issues in 10 years.
  17. Sorry no photos available but We had short bits of aluminum angles attached to the floor stringers. A socket head screw recessed into the hatch that secures an aluminum tab between two nuts and lock washers. Fender washers for wear as appropriate. Adjust to fit. Operate with a hex key secured in a convenient place.
  18. The Wichard product claims to re-passivate as I recall. Expensive, but works great and goes a long way.
  19. Once the heavy rust is removed, coat with Collonite Metal Wax. Really great stuff, and removes light rust very nicely without damaging the passivated layer. Their insulator wax is particularly effective at keeping rust away, especially when used after metal wax.
  20. Flame on: https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f152/brent-swain-36-pilothouse-248806.html
  21. Look up "Brick House Valiant" on YouTube. Among his many excellent videos is one on blister repairs on his early V40.
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