Jump to content

WHK

Members
  • Content Count

    1,532
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

71 Kiss-ass

About WHK

  • Rank
    Super Anarchist
  • Birthday 09/25/1953

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://vs.j109.org
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Location
    Newport, RI
  • Interests
    Sailing

Recent Profile Visitors

8,927 profile views
  1. Contact Kendra Muenter at J/Boats so she can add you to access the J/111 on to the J Owners Resources page. This from the J/111 manual for a US built boat on page 12: Facnor Headsail Furling: The Facnor “Flat” Furler is provided with the boat standard and requires assembly prior to installing the mast. A complete instruction manual is included with this hardware detailing the proper procedure. The pin-to-pin headstay length necessary to complete this task for the J/111 is 15089mm or 49’5”. The provided pre-feeder should be lashed and taped halfway between the feeder gate and
  2. Yes - we had forward and after trim tanks, auxiliary tanks and depth control tanks that water could be pumped in / out. These were all "hard tanks" that could withstand sea pressure. The boat would be approximately neutrally buoyant and trim adjusted so when proceeding slowly depth could be maintained. A submarine practical joke was a "trim party" to toy with a new diving officer. The trim party would go forward, requiring water be pumped aft to compensate. A few minutes later the trim party would go to the stern of the boat and the bow would pitch up. The diving officer would compens
  3. These quotes are spot on. I too am a retired submariner and served on a Skate class boat that was older than the Thresher and Scorpion. It was retrofitted with the Subsafe systems resulting from the Thresher lessons learned, including the EMBT system. Submarines have a "safe operating envelope" that provide speed and depth limitations. Too deep and too shallow are both problems (for different reasons) but Dilligaf0220 has stated what happens if the sub is too deep without enough speed to have the control surfaces drive the boat to the surface. The control surfaces are typically hydraulical
  4. See my old thread at this link. You can do this.
  5. +1 ^^^^ This! It is what I did on a friends J/109 and worked well. He had an older Garmin chart plotter we used just to do the setup on the GST-43. Once setup, the linearity values are saved in the GST-43 and you may further calibrate without the Garmin display using the native calibration setup in the Triton 2. Best if you can do all the linearity and offset settings using the Garmin display, but still doable if the basic linearity stuff is saved in the GST-43.
  6. FYI - before I upgraded to the serpentine, it had a 1/2" belt with the 110A Balmar alternator on the 3YM30. Belt dust was everywhere. The serpentine belt fixed that and made the engine run smoother due to eliminating belt slippage.
  7. Resurrecting one of the original questions from the OP. I just learned about the DST810 from a friend who bought a J/122. Over the winter he had the speed sensor housing moved to the centerline and flush mounted. He replaced the DST800 with the DST810. The specs on the DST810 look much better than the original triducer. Things such as 5Hz data rate, built in heel and pitch correction with ability to store up to 10 point speed linearity calibrations make it look good on paper. Does anyone have real world data to show how this sensor performs?
  8. A friend with a J/122 has a Zues3 and 20/20 mast displays with no H5000 processor or H5000 graphic display. The Zeus3 is able to control and setup via the N2K network the 20/20 displays.
  9. H5000 Graphic has everything the Triton 2 has plus a few more pages like start line and laylines. I do all my cal stuff on the H5000 Hercules using an ethernet connected PC and Websocket. The H5000 processor does a bunch of corrections that are not available with just the Zeus 3/ Triton setup. Wind corrections are much more thorough with the H5000.
  10. Same happens on needing to rev the engine on my 3YM30 after initial launch, or if the system has been opened to air. I cycle the valve on the hard once per year just to make sure it can be closed if needed but always leave it in the open position. Glad to see you go it sorted.
  11. That for sure is what TackTick & the B&G H5000 uses. Having previously owned Nexus gear, I don't think the Phoenix connectors shown will work.
  12. I installed the serpentine kit on my 3YM30 and documented it on the J/109 forum at this link with pictures. It is a great upgrade that eliminates belt dust and make the engine run smoother.
  13. The 3YM30 on my J/109 has a 110Amp Balmar 7 Series Alternator - original equipment with the DC refrigeration option.
  14. J/109 the locker is removable, sits on two raised fore and aft ridges ~ 1/2" high so water can drain underneath the locker. It has a screw with a handwheel on port and stbd side that goes through the side of the locker to a captive stainless threaded insert glassed into the hull.
  15. The data Blur posted is typical for what I've seen with other 2 and 3 cylinder J boats with fuel consumption and the RPM where it really starts to increase. The sweet spot is between 2400 - 2600 RPM. Pick a speed that minimizes vibration. Both my J/30 (2GM) and now J/109 (3YM30) consumes about .5-.6 gal/hour at that RPM. Increasing to 3000 rpm almost doubled the fuel consumption with just a little more incremental speed. You may want to increase the speed periodically to blow any carbon buildup out of the exhaust system. Idle and low rpms for a long period of time should be avoided, a
×
×
  • Create New...