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40 Kiss-ass

About GBRNoah

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  • Birthday 06/16/1957

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  • Location
    Hampshire, UK
  • Interests
    Outside of sailing - dinghies for racing, lead-mines for cruising - I'm an IT Project Manager based in southern England with a background in Logistics & Distribution / ERP systems. Currently working in the defence field on infrastructure projects.
    I enjoy reading about & driving interesting cars.

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  1. Ok, so it's not all wood, but this is what I had...
  2. Same kind of thing, yes. Bore might be a bit small though on that particular item. The Ronstan item shown is a 4mm equivalent. Mine were 6mm I think.
  3. Never seen anything like it on a dinghy - let alone a narrow one like a Fireball! I think it's a refugee from elsewhere and too big (and if it is carbon it would be barred anyway)
  4. Not sure on the shape / size. I know they have to fit into a template for measurement (well, maybe not HAVE TO, but that's the way it's done at international championships). The rules don't appear to govern the size or shape of the head of the board. (See section 14.2 https://www.sailing.org/tools/documents/FIR2015CR230615-[18969].pdf). Most boats built since the late 80's (guessing), have a pair of cheek blocks mounted on the 'nose' and a rope arrangement for raising and lowering the board (except 14268 didn't :-( ). I'll see if I can dig out a photo from the current boat.
  5. They're just stainless lined thru deck bushes or bullseyes. https://www.sailboats.co.uk/allen-s-s-lined-through-deck-bush-id-6mm. Push fit (maybe aided by a little glue) into the timber c/b capping.
  6. I thought there was a minimum height for the top of the centreboard case. Turns out I was wrong. There isn’t. 9.12 Centreboard Case No part of the centreboard case or the centreline structure above the cockpit sole shall exceed 320mm in width, except for struts, knees or strain members, the total of which shall not exceed three on each side of the centreboard case. The fore and aft dimension of any strut, knee or strain member shall not exceed 50mm when viewed in plan. The slot shall not exceed 30mm in width. The sides of the slot opening in the bottom of the boat may have a radius.
  7. Draw out the numbers (maybe use a template?) and then use either a very sharp, very small chisel, or a 3mm drill. Fill the engraving with coloured epoxy for contrast and revarnish. I’m not sure anyone would be harsh enough to throw you out for missing numbers though. And you can omit the country code - just the numbers are needed.
  8. She certainly was. 14268. Built in 1991 by Severn Sailboats. Bought by me in a state of mild neglect in 2004. Refurb was mainly sanding & varnishing, and sorting the string. Sold to France in 2009 and not heard of since, barring one photo I found of her on a quiet lake or river a year or so later.
  9. The jib bars on the Severn boats didn’t have the range of adjustment that the Winder’s do (or most of them anyway), but it is simple and it is a lot cheaper. The theory is that as the car moves outboard the sheeting angle changes to open the leech and tighten the foot. Not sure it ever worked quite right, but the sails I was using were not necessarily cut with that in mind. The clew position needs to reflect the way the sheeting position is arranged.
  10. I have just the one! The pic is of the first ‘ball I owned. Bought in late 2004, sold in late 2009 to fund the Winder purchase. Severn did build a nice looking ship, and well put together. Yes, it’s a downhaul I rigged for the rudder. Those cast IYE stocks (rudder head in US-speak?) are a bit rubbish and I was never happy with the sacrificial pin idea. It does need a 2:1 purchase and a break-out cleat to work properly. The odd rope routing just kept the line off the aft deck.
  11. Might be a recent hull. Spars are prehistoric and it seems somewhat short of hardware. Still, for that price it's hard to go too wrong if it's been built right. Does it measure?
  12. Well, as you asked, this is the way Severn built them in the early 90's. OK - it's a foam / glass hull and ply deks, tanks & bulkheads, but the principle still applies. The fwd web goes all the way to the hull and effectively closed the stress triangle formed by the shroud base when rig tension is applied. The jib bars are only ther efor in/out adjustment and are secured to apad on the side tank. Fairly sure they don't go as far as the hull. I don't think you need tape if you have a decent epoxy / resin mix with fibres in it for strength and some colloidal silica to help it stay wher
  13. Kicker / vang needs to be used in partnership with the Cunningham / downhaul (see - I'm multi-lingual .) Kicker pulls the draft towards the leech. Cunningham pulls it fwd again towards the luff. Check out the North's tuning guide here.
  14. We were worried that the chasing bunch would blanket our breeze and sail over the top, as we were only yards from the finish. In the event though I bore off, caught a wave and were free and clear to the line.
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