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steele

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About steele

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    Land of the locks

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  1. I was at the marina and took this shot today, a J99 on my dock. In your case the strap at the forward end of the track is probably for the in-hauler. On my 109 it is the forward attachement point for the shock cord that pulls the car back, not forward as I wrote. The cord goes to the aft end of the track through a block then forward to the car. The screw may not be part of the system, although this boat also has one, not sure why.
  2. The screw may have been part of an in-hauler set up for the jib sheet. The strap is for attaching a shock cord to pull the jib car forward.
  3. It may not take a big downturn to cause changes to discretionary spending. Boats, bikes, RVs, etc have all been in high demand as people stuck at home tried to come up with safe activities to offset the canceled vacations and social activities like kids sports. About the time those types of purchases should be slowing down the supply chain crunch hit. The suppply issues will take a while to fix, but it will happen. Kids are back in school. Travel is returning to near pre pandemic levels nationally, and trending up internationaly. Boats sales will take a while to adjust, it is a small unique ma
  4. I was not aware of the power draw from the clutch alone. The boat was purchased with the autopilot installed so I did no research. We do not do extensive offshore or overnight passages so it is not really an issue, but still good to know. It is important to keep track of parasitic loads, like our popane solenoid which also draws 1A when energized. Our fridge draws about the same as yours. The addition of a 110W flexible solar panel this summer reduced battery capacity anxiety significantly.
  5. I have an under deck Raymarine linear mechanical drive on my boat, about the same displacment and similar rudder. It works well and the motor is silent from the cockpit. It does clunk when stearing as there is some necessary play in the mount. The drive has a clutch so resistance is minimal. My boat has a wheel, but it is very light and less than a full revolution lock to lock and I still have good helm feel despite the drive. As always experiences vary, but it is worth a look. My last boat had a tiller pilot. The convience of the under deck unit being ready to go all the time by hi
  6. I apologize for being repetitive on this subject, but before committing to a plan for rudder berings talk to PYI in Lynnwood WA. They were very helpfull with my bearing replacement. I ended up with a Jefa non metalic lower and so far have been happy wth the result. If the boat has a Maxprop they are very good at servicing those.
  7. Early 70's Pearson 36. Now semi-famous as Sailing Uma's E-boat.
  8. Hull # 4 is now sailing in my area. It was purchased by the type of owner J was targeting. He is experienced and had owned several much larger boats but is older and looking for something simpler. He has some non sailing family members with mobility issues, so the cockpit set up is perfect for his needs. Horses for courses as they say. I think it will work very well for he and his family.
  9. I dealt with this last year, the aluminum had swelled and corroded jamming the bearing. It was cut out in pieces with a recipricating saw from below without damaging the rudder tube. As you can see the bearing also had to be cut out, it should be removable by hand but was stuck in place by the failing aluminum housing. It was replaced by a non metalic set up from Jefa, I would strongly recommend you contact PYI, there were very helpful with advice and sourcing the proper size.
  10. Are you inquiring about living on the boat, or finding a mooring for long term? You could make this work in the PNW if aboard most of the time. We have lots of protected anchorages, but no mooring fields. You would need a solid anchoring set up and be ready to move around to shelter from storms. Also be ready for our wet, dark, and cold winters, but we do sail year round. There are lots of big and small marinas to duck into for provisioning. I am not recommending this, it is dark for 15 hours a day mid winter, and damp 24 hours a day 9 months a year, but it could be done. As for docks, t
  11. Although many rudders have a bit of water in them, 2 pints seem like a lot. That looks to be a relatively large unsupported spade rudder. Reading between the lines it also seems that your boat will already be on the hard for the season. All this would prompt me to pull it now and investigate further rather than waiting until spring and have something go bad and lose a summer of sailing, or worse. There are many descriptions here and elsewhere of DYI rudder repairs, it appears to be a big job but do-able by a motivated owner.
  12. One my earliest sailing memories was the downwind laser death roll, boom pointed to the sky, and having the boat sail away from me in perfect balance on it's side until it turtled many yards away. In true 14 year old fashion I soon learned in heavy wind I could put the boat in the same position, sit on the dagger board, and "sail" that way indefinitely. The girls were not impressed.
  13. Gloss vs satin is a personal preference. Gloss will brighten things up but tends to show more damage over time from scuffs etc. Gloss on the sole is pretty slippery on a boat since water is always around.
  14. It would help to know what is the finish now. Older boats often had oiled wood surfaces inside. The wood will have a mat look with open grain or pores. In that case a cleaning, light sanding, and re oiling will restore things nicely. Water stains may need more sanding or even bleaching first. If the wood has a varnish like surface in bad shape then a more thorough sanding will be needed. I agree a low sheen water based product is best for work in the interior. More thinner coats is always better, and any wood you can do out of the boat is a plus. Can you look at the end grain of the
  15. If possible go with the Pod. I am not familar with your boat but by description the MFD will be in the aft part of the cockpit. The device will be subjected to water, UV and abuse. The screen side can handle it, it is all the cords and connectors I would worry about. I suspect they are not as UV stable as the rest, and all connections eventually leak. Most pods have internal routing for the wires for a cleaner look and less chance of snagging. If you commit to the pod you can see if the new device fits the old one, if not you are stuck with a new pod. It is about 1/10 the cost of the MFD,
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