Jump to content

steele

Members
  • Content Count

    1,458
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

107 F'n Saint

About steele

  • Rank
    Super Anarchist

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Location
    Land of the locks

Recent Profile Visitors

10,051 profile views
  1. I have a 109 and decided to upgrade the anchor roller as the factory one was undersized for cruising. This involved using the original roller as a template to have a local machine shop make a larger flate base to which I mounted a new roller from Mantus. It used the same mounting bolts as the original to attach to the boat. To clear the bowsprit and my furling drum it had to be mounted off center and at an angle to port. In your case an otion would be to remove the stem fitting, have a large base made with an extension to port at an angle to mount the roller, and a new fitting welded for
  2. It looks like you can get a rebuilt or used one in good shape around $2500. It you think the current one is doomed to fail it might make sense to replace it before something worse happens (like it seizes in the middle of Juan de Fuca, not that I would know about that type of thing). You can sail this season with some confidence, re build the old one this fall, and sell it to offset some of the cost. Before I get called out for being financially irresponsible, keep in mind towing only works if they can get to you in time. The plans do not cover putting the boat on the hard and storage and
  3. At anchor heat is the only option unless you have a generator. Running AC at a dock is possible, lots do, but it sounds like this is less appealing for you given the sailing conditions that time of year are not great anyway. Our first boat had a bulkhead heater, it was not a great one but would take the edge off a cool morning or evening. Adding layers helps, down tent booties are nice. The current boat has a forced air diesel heater. It makes some noise on start up, but has never been intrusive. It allows shoulder season cruising, and also keeps the interior dry. We added a vent to the l
  4. Lot's of good info here so far, I will add a few details. The paint on saildrives is different as it must be compatible with aluminum. Usual bottom paint will eat the drive. In my area it does not seem to last as long as typical bottom paint. Anodes on my volvo last a very long time, but are unique and hard to get. So far they can only be ordered from volvo which makes me nervous as they do not have a great reputation of suporting legacy products. If you have a large failure of the drive it must be removed completely for service. This has to be done out of the water, with the engine often need
  5. Ray designed the app to not allow full control with the phone, only the pad app allows full mirroring of the MFD display and functions. I have no trouble with my old e7 working with an ipad 2, ipad mini, and current galaxy tab. Some reviews indicate problems with newer ray MFDs working with the app so you might borrow a tablet to try first. The app is free so you could try it on a friends tab first.
  6. I also agree with the try it and see approach, as long as you are flushing fresh water it is a no harm no foul situation. On the subject of unwanted advice, in our area overboard discharge is illegal, and the valve handle has to be removed or locked in place. The fines for not doing so are substantial. Check your local regs. Since you can't get at it could you add access from the cockpit locker?
  7. Perhaps his question is not that unreasonable. You can get two part epoxy pool paint for a gelcoat surface. It is the same surface as the boat hull, is designed to be underwater forever, and pools get lots of abuse. He does not need an anti marine growth properties, just something waterproof and durable. I am not saying I know it would work, but it is not a bad question.
  8. I looked at the fire tablets also, it was not clear that you could load other aps as it is an amazon controlled version of android OS. They keep the price low to force you into amazon marketing, I ended up with a samsung active tab, more money but waterproof, shockproof, and works fine with the raymarine app. It also has a GPS so is a back up chartplotter on it's own with navioinics etc.
  9. It seems for you, Crash, and probably Bull the J9 would be ideal, ignoring the cost. I am lucky that my wife likes the boat, it goes along with her love of camping hiking etc. We day sail twice a week during the summer, but do a multiple 2-3 day overnights a season, and a 7-10 day vacation on the boat once a summer. Soon this will be more as we enter semi-retirement. For us having an interior with a bit more function works well. I think our use is also infuenced by where we sail, there are probably 30-40 marinas or safe anchorages within one day of our home port so spending the night on the bo
  10. Your point is well taken, but your's is a more practical assessment than most. Most mid size sailboats have more interior space and systems than most of us use. Many of the nicer cruisers near me never leave the dock. I think it is like all the 4 wheel drive SUVs being sold. Most will never be off road and the owners would be better served by a front wheel drive sedan. It is the possibility of the adventure and not the reality that sells.
  11. I still don't have a good feel for how big the daysailer market is now. The market for sailboats overall is small, and daysailers a minor portion of that. We have a blip because of wealthy people looking for covid safe activites now, but that will be a short term phenomenon. In my area many older sailors transition to small powerboats so companies like Ranger tugs are booming. Finally, for the cost and length of a J9 you can find a few almost as easy to sail boats that have a decent interior for those who are not ready to completely give up light cruising. The J99 is good, but more expensive,
  12. Got it, I missed your earlier post indicating you only have 3/4" to work with. Since the boat is 30+ years old it must have done just fine with a cylindrical fixed bushing with no need for added boat surgery to change to something more complex.
  13. Jefa makes non-metalic lower bearings, inlcuding both fixed and self aligning roller types. As noted they are not a budget item, but if the boat is apart already and you plan to epoxy the lower into the hull it may be worth a look. The self aligning version will allow some flexibility in installation as well as reduce binding if there is any issue with the top bearing or flex between the cockpit sole and hull. I do not know if the J28 has a solid rudder tube or not, if not binding is less likely. This was an issue on my boat as it had a the lower JP3 bushing in an aluminum housing. It is
  14. Another vote for tank tender, http://tanktender.com. The access is a small hole drilled in the top of the tank, very simple to instal and use. One display can be used for both tanks. As mentioned a bit expensive, but high quality.
  15. I bought a pair of evos when they first came out, at the time there was a great sale at Defender, including free winch handles. Back then the Evos where marketed to builders as being quicker to instal. I recall the oceans were all metal on the outside, the evo has a plastic top cap and grip rings for the self tailer. Looking at newer ads for the oceans it looks they now have plastic top caps too, not sure of the gipping part. The winches worked fine, I used covers at the dock to minimize UV exposure. Can you go to a local store to look at them in person? As a racer in an area with more UV
×
×
  • Create New...