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About harryproa

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  1. Pultruded planks, 100m rolls of 50 x 1.2mm/350' x 2" x .055". 70% standard modulus carbon, perfectly aligned fibres with reliable properties. $250 per roll, plus shipping from China. We used them on the beams and the rudders, where they saved a lot of time and work, but the masts are probably a step too far in terms of labour required. They are no use for tapered masts, but the telescoping wing masts aren't. They're also no use for infusion unless the strips are preglued to the required thickness which causes other hassles. On the bright side, they are about the same price as the carbon
  2. Nearly finished the bottom section of the 1st mast yesterday. 8m/27' long, weighs 73 kgs, with another 5 or so to add. Strip planking in carbon is not the fastest or cleanest way to build, but it is the cheapest, materials wise. $AUS6,000/$US4,000 for a 20m/66' unstayed mast is not bad. It also produces a higher carbon:resin ratio (70/30) than any other build method and is incredibly consistent in terms of fibre straightness and f/r ratio. I can "confirm" that: i) this is a pathetic attempt to divert attention from your claims to have a windward hull which reverses the Coanda
  3. Yeah, I know. You said it didn't happen. (June 1) Any ww hull does this. You said it started lifting at 4 knots, with no unloading. And that it was caused by the shape of the hull, which is the opposite of the Coanda effect. (June 1) It's not. Half an hour of gps track with shunts upwind and down in the middle of Norfolk Bay (~12 miles x 8 miles) would remove a lot of the "seems to be" from your posts. I'm not sure whether an 18m/60' 4.5 tonne/ton proa (lighter than an ORMA 60) counts as a "condoproa", but as it is ~50% heavier than the next heaviest Harryproa,
  4. Well done Jo. It's good to see someone prepared to realise Gaia's Dream's potential. If you are ever in Bris, drop in for a chat and a look at the cargo proa. If you need any materials, I buy in bulk from China, am happy to onsell to you at my buying price, which is about half retail. If you hold a spoon by the end of the handle and move the back of the bowl section into a stream of tap water, it will be sucked inwards. Make a model of a rockered hull and the same thing happens. Make it flat (no rocker) and it doesn't. Hold the ends of the flat surface and angle it to the wat
  5. Interesting discussion. Something to discuss: When I look at a rockered hull, I see a Hobie 16 or early Rudy Choy hull on it's side. These hulls are flat(ish) on the lee side and curved on the windward side. They generate sufficient lift to almost negate the need for daggerboards. Turn them on their side and from the side they look like a rockered hull. Move them through the water and the 'lift' pulls them down. On rockerless hulls (that trim bow up) the hull shape is causing it to lift in the opposite direction.
  6. Some history: The owner was a 60+ year old power boater who thought it would be fun to build and sail a boat. Chose a Harryproa because they made sense to an elderly non sailor, would be quick and low cost to build and were different. He bought a set of 15m/50' cedar strip Harry plans and used them (and a lot of phone calls and emails) as a reference for the infused flat panel plastic honeycomb/fibreglass/epoxy hulls, in hull rudders and standard at the time rig. He made it longer, enlarged the windward hull and installed a 60 hp outboard. I gave no idea what it cost to build, but it
  7. According to someone who has seen it: "I went up and had a look at the one in Maine. Sitting for 20 years hasn't done it any favors but it appears the build quality is good from what I saw of of the glass work inside. Looks to be worth saving for someone that has the skills." He did not say what those skills are, but if the structure is sound, they will be assembling, painting and then sailing a unique boat. True, they don't match. Which is my point. The question is, If you were offered the attributes of both, without knowing what they were, which would you choose? Th
  8. Zonker, Assuming all the bits we built are there, it needs a coat of paint and assembly. For $6k it is a bargain for someone not intimidated by the unusual. Dex, At least 2 people are having a look this weekend with that purpose in mind. I am sure they would appreciate your offer. :-) You might be right, but one of the reasons for building this boat is to test some limits and try new ideas. It is long so it will carry the weight, yet still have small enough hull panels not to need core. The components also have to be light and tough enough to be manhandled up a
  9. The boat was the first pro built Harry, by Mark Stephens. He did his usual great job but we underquoted both time and cost. Consequently, we did some free stuff and the top coat was not complete before it had to be loaded on the ship. It was not built as a kit. All the parts are there, it 'just' needs cleaning up (20 odd years sitting outside), paint and assembly. Apart from a novel walk through cockpit arrangement and a 30 hp engine bracket, both of which could easily be altered, it is standard for Harry's at the time. Construction is strip planked cedar/epoxy/glass for the hulls
  10. Not strictly on topic, but might be interesting to some of you. I had a visit from the EClass Boats folk this weekend. Tried the 4 kw on my 3m/10 hp alloy dinghy with a grubby bottom. It performed almost the same as the 6 hp 2 stroke petrol outboard but a lot easier to use. Both engines almost get the boat planing with me sitting in the middle. Then we tried the 7 kw which was more powerful, as expected, but with nothing to compare it to, there is not much to say. Battery use for both was low given most of the testing was WOT. video at https://youtu.be/Xb-CWR3sGKY The followin
  11. Some pics of a carbon track glued and glassed onto an unstayed mast 17m long, with 50 sqm of roachy main and cheap, light, low friction plastic cars. This track is foam cored, weighs near nothing. The current ones are a solid carbon shell which are stronger, easier to build and a little heavier. Still lighter than an alloy track, with no fastenings or backing plates and easily reinforced at the top and reef points.
  12. KICASS: Keep It Cheap and Simple, Stupid Build a carbon track with wide flanges that match the mast and bond it on. Use UHMWPE slides as rcb balls may dent the track. Weight and cost savings are significant and there are no issues with fastenings or different materials. Simpler, but heavier and more expensive, build a round track into your mast and use threaded slugs to bolt the alloy track to.
  13. Sounds feasible. Anything I can help with let me know. There are a couple of Harrys being built in the PNW. If you want to get in touch with them, and get feedback from another source, join the Harryproa chat group at https://groups.io/g/HarryProa/topics
  14. And I didn't day you did. Just offered to save you a lot of work building 2nd and 3rd sets. That you say you didn't copy them, but saw fit to mention that they didn't work answers your question about "why proa designers can't just get along". I have broken more than I can remember on my development boats. The result of designing near the limits and hard testing. On my designs built by other people: one gantry when they locked off the kick up system and sailed into a sandbank at speed, one where a stainless pintle developed crevice corrosion and snapped while sailing in the h
  15. Designed to weigh 800, and carry a further 800. Weighed 1,800 before the owner arrived for the weekend sail in the video. No idea what it weighed when launched as I was not there and I don't think they used a crane. The cover over the cockpit was not part of the original. Of course. And based on the other Harryproasbuilt at the time, it was comprehensive. This 15m/50'ter was spot on at a tad over 2 tonnes. A cruising version, ready to cruise was 3 and a bit tonnes. Shows what can be achieved when you run the design spiral down instead of up. To see what happens when yo
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