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someoldsalt

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About someoldsalt

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  1. Two cents - I had an old Sailrite machine bought about 25 years ago that ended up needing a small part no longer produced by anyone and short of finding someone to design and machine new parts (yah), reached "the end of its service life". After much thought and gnashing of teeth, I ponied up for a new Sailrite machine with all the bells and whistles-straight and zigzag etc. I am very happy with the machine. So far, I have just made some covers and things and minor repairs, but right out of the box is sews beautifully and (unlike its predecessor) stays in time-a very nicely put together and s
  2. Hood 38? (Bristol, Wauquiez, Little Harbor)
  3. I find West technical support to be excellent and readily available. I recently had a question about gelcoat repair on a catamaran and the (scientific-not "I think") conclusion with West was that 610 would be ideal for slightly lower tensile strength but slightly higher elasticity for this application. Hard to beat the product and support-I too have used other epoxies and they are all slightly different in mix ratios, viscosity, cure time, cost etc and I think all are pretty good depending on the application
  4. I like to fasten them out on the second spreaders - opens up the slot for hoisting and keeps the tail away from the mast-no slapping. I've heard an opinion that did not like this idea as they felt if everything went wrong you could be trying twist the rig out of the boat, but we are talking about cruising boat rigs and I think this risk is pretty minimal...
  5. Thanks for the sage advice!
  6. Any firsthand experience with older Robertson autopilots? I have an older unit-probably 15 years plus, a J300 (?) on a 19,000 lbs 38 footer-ram to the rudder post. Boat (1994), is new to me and while I assume the unit is good, I am wondering if messing with it all is worth it? I think it is a pretty good unit for its day, but if parts are unavailable and modern autopilots as far superior as they appear to be, then maybe I should just yank it and install a new Pelagic or Raymarine? Please, I am looking for firsthand experience with older Robertson autopilots and sage advice - not personal
  7. While I am at it, another question for you, e, would you recommend the long bury for running rigging/standing rigging as well? I am adding a dyneema innerforestay and runners to my rig (Hood 38) and wonder if you reckon the long bury is superior there. If that is so, why is everyone (Colligo) etc recommending the brummel splice...? Thanks in advance-hopefully this is helpful to all
  8. Thanks for the salient thoughts - estarzinger-I hear you on the long bury splice versus brummel, but then the use of WR2 maybe makes less sense as I don't think it would be possible to milk the cover over that long splice? The cover would then terminate about 20" or so from the eye, maybe that is fine although less attractive? NER recommends a brummel splice with a bury for the cover that ends up with about 11'' of exposed core before the cover. The tightly woven dyneema cover makes for a pretty nice hand and of course helps at stanchion chafe points as well-seems like pretty good stuff. I
  9. I am making up new lifelines now in 7mm WR2. The challenge I find is getting exact lengths and not wasting alot of expensive line or cutting it too short. For instance, if I do a brummel eye at one end and then want say 21' to the other brummel eye, how do I compensate for the amount lost in the splice versus the amount gained through creep when loaded to figure out where to cut the line off the spool before splicing? This gets extra critical with gate openings where the the lengths are short and you are for instance, using a cow hitched eye to an eye fitting that goes through the stan
  10. Anyone have any firsthand experience with acid etch primer for bronze (intending to paint with one part enamel after)? Petit 6455/044 looks like it will work but wondered if someone might have other (or confirming) experience?
  11. Just read through this thread and it is a good one. I have a Hood 38 (Bristol 38.8) that I am restoring after it was abandoned for several years-most would agree that this is one of Ted Hood's (Dieter Empacher) best boats - good looking, shoal draft, sails well and generally robust, simple and well proven. I hope to have her launched and sailing this summer. Good luck Caliente with your buying process - I think you are considering some good boats and of course it is always a question of compromise and what you ultimately decide is right for you. Personally-to the original question and
  12. It is how traditionally laid decks are done so that the caulk does not adhere to the bottom, only the sides of the seam and does a better job of handling expansion and contraction. I knew a really good old hippy shipwright in the West Indies who used cassette tape - he spent alot of time pondering the music that was on the tape and whether or not it suited the boat, the owner and the overall vibe...
  13. This is what I see when I try to log on-has been several days: This site can’t be reached The webpage at https://www.sailinganarchy.com/ might be temporarily down or it may have moved permanently to a new web address. ERR_HTTP2_PROTOCOL_ERROR
  14. Anyone else unable to log on to the www.sailinganarchywebsite? My browsers say it can't be found and I figured the site was down for a few days. I did a search and was able to get on to the forums that way? This happened both on a PC and Apple...anyone?
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