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Lucky Dog

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22 Suckup

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    sailing boats

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  1. the LOA is as slug Z says well understood number. Who does not know how long their boat is? I am sure that painters/bottom cleaners over the years have adjusted the labor costs to meet changing boat shapes. I also pay for storage using box rule have for 30 + years. My current guy is not getting into the decimal places I used to say its a 40 ft with a 12 ft beam now he is charging me its a 39.25ft boat with a 12.2ft beam. I was not trying to rip him off but I get being accurate. We are going to give him a X-Mas bonus as the cost of everything is going up. Shrink Wrap has gone up 200 us
  2. So here are the specifications for this engine regarding RPM. I am assuming less 10% would be a good cruising speed if you were in a hurry (2880 rpm if 3200rpm was max). Here is full throttle operating speed 3200 to 3600 rpm - not sure why it gives a range. Is that due to perhaps different engines will have different propellers (i.e. load)? Added full spec's also. Question: does this tell me I could run this motor at 3100 rpm for an extended time with no damage? md2030 specs.pdf
  3. thanks for the information - regarding the dip stick oil extraction. I would put a thin plastic tube down tube and extract oil with my oil extraction pump. Attaching the tube to the actual oil change tube is a better solution as its pick up is at bottom of oil pan. I have seen engines with a oil extraction pump mounted to engine. I could mount that to pipe and strap it to the engine. Perhaps I will consider doing that later. Has anyone done this to there engine?
  4. Thanks for all the reply's. I run the engine at 2700 as my normal speed when I have a long distance to travel - engine max is 3200 so I am well below that. Yep understand its a Pharma 30 - I use those parts for filters have not had to purchase any parts (yet). the brake clean is a good idea will do so next spring. For oil changes I have either had a mechanic do them or I suck oil out the dipstick tube - this tube will work much better as pick up is at bottom of pan. SO here is story of oil leak - bought boat in 2015 no oil leak at all. Replaced sail drive as it got
  5. Hello, after a lot of cleaning and running then checking some more I have a idea of where it could be leaking. it only seems to leak after running at 2700 rpm for a while. front of oil pan seems to be leaking. so I think i have to pull engine to get to that puppy. The other leak is by this rubber cap on a tube on port side of engine under oil filter. I am told its removable for oil changes - kind of cool way to change oil. you are supposted to attach a hose to a suction pump and pump out the oil. I thought crankcases had pressure so... little confused here that a rubber cap woul
  6. I have a First 40.7 with iron keel - exact problem. 1st try ground out rust put g-flex fillet. fillet Cracked away and rust was on keel side where is sanded thru the interprotect 2nd try ground out fillet sanded and coated keel joint and hull with g-flex and then bedded 2 inch fiberglass tape 1/2 way from front to rear on both sides of keel. applied fillet with g-flex then coated entire keel and 2 inches up on boat bottom with interprotect maybe 3 coats with some sanding. pulled boat for this winter season - no crack looks good except rear of keel has small crack - so
  7. S2 used wooden stringers with fiberglass over them - on my friends boat they all had to be replaced due to rot. That boat was a 10.3 - great boat.
  8. Max, thanks for the question. The dye under the light is not bright yellow it was muted orangish so to speak but it glowed. So yes I tested the light on the bottle and the supplied glasses and it glowed - not y brightly as expected. Does Dye have a shelf life? Or perhaps I got the wrong dye. I used one oz. per 5 liters per the instructions- Volvo MD2030 has 4.5L of oil. Dye was Auto Pro Fluorescent leak detector dye. Part number 374CS. Amazon of course and it says it can be used with engines. I there a special dye that should be used with diesels?
  9. Well it been a while as sailing was better then repairing. I can’t see to locate the leak - it still seems like it’s coming from alternator side of engine at oil pan. - I tried dye but it does not seem to fluoresce. I put in in engine ran the engine pulled dip stick to see it glow - using black light and goggles - saw nothing. So.. I wiped around front of engine found a little black oil-that also did not glow. Does anyone have experience with fluorescent dyes? What type would you recommend? thanks Tom
  10. The guy hanging on to the forestay clearly is the owner/helmsperson
  11. Thanks for feedback I will check that out. I will degrease engine and tape some paper towel at bottom of crankshaft seal to see if its leaking. Have not heard about about throttle shaft leak - will look there also. thanks again Tom
  12. wondering if anyone else has this issue. I have a First 40.7 with a Volvo 2030 engine. runs great. I have noticed that it now has very slight an oil pan leak. after 8 hrs of running the front of the engine oil pan has a drip or two of oil. I noticed this after it was serviced - :) But who really knows. I found I could tighten up the front bolts 1/4 turn but could not get to bolts in rear. However; I still have a very small leak. As I think any type of leak is bad. I think I have to remove the engine from engine bay to get to oil pan bolts and do the job correctl
  13. Ok so let’s see both scans side by side. The solid from 2010 and the 2011 hull scans - and what the hell the mold 9 if it’s available. Tom
  14. Try Chicago Marine Electronics http://www.chicagomarineelectronics.com/ Contact us, Write, Fax, E-Mail, Call M-F [9.00am-5.00pm Central US (- 6h GMT)] at: Hellas Marine, Inc. Chicago Marine Electronics 212 E. Crescent Ave. Elmhurst IL. 60126 USA Phone : +1 (630) 501-1938 http://www.chicagomarineelectronics.com/images/cme_email.gif
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