Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

2 Neutral

About DSE

  • Rank

Recent Profile Visitors

4,156 profile views
  1. The fuel pump is worth replacing if it's several years old and you are using ethanol gas. Not hard to do and not expensive. If the diaphragm ruptures, every time you prime, fuel goes into the crankcase and can cause more serious problems. You will also see fuel starvation symptoms. This happened to me, but the engine at the time was maybe 10 years old. I agree though, the carb is the most likely culprit and should be looked at first. The carb problems are typical of any small carburated engine. Rebuilding the carb is not hard to do on this engine either. Outside of the fuel pump issue, the en
  2. Has the fuel pump been replaced? The ethanol fuel will ruin the fuel pump diaphragm over time. I stopped running ethanol fuel and have not had any problems with the carb. A common thing other people do with their outboards is unplug the fuel line and let the engine run dry to minimize fuel gumming up in the carb. During the winter I also have a fan that blows warm dry air from the cabin into the engine compartment to minimize condensation. Not sure about 2020 prices, but a new tohatsu will probably be under 2K. Fitting another brand will difficult and require a different remote which add to e
  3. The HCP 1201 was the heavy duty version APS used to carry.
  4. What system do they use on the Volvo 65 boats? It looks similar to the pocket style, but with some kind of seal.
  5. The bars and faceplate can get can get distorted and create sharp edges, especially if the halyard is two blocked in heavy air or you have overly aggressive pit. I think the sheave is the same used on the Farr 30 and Harkin made a heavy duty version of the faceplate for the Farr 30, but I was never able to source one.
  6. Keep the 2:1. Here's what I did. It's just an eye splice in the warpspeed. Could have done a better job whipping.
  7. I used 150ft of 5/16 warpspeed for the 2:1 setup. This leaves plenty of margin for splicing and reaches back of cockpit with head board connect on the deck. I didn't strip as I wanted to maintain endurance/longevity/uv resistance of the line. Also, raising and lowering the main doesn't need to happen as quickly and often as foresails where reducing friction with bare dyneema is big advantage. Leaving the cover on obviously means a small amount of weight aloft though. If I did strip the cover and I may eventually do this, I'd leave a couple feet at the top to reduce chafe around the shackle and
  8. Razor blades with an angled razor blade holder worked well for the 55ft mast and boom I did. Quicker than sanding and less dust. You have to try pretty hard to get it to dig into the fibers. The flakey stuff comes off pretty easy. Sprayed 545 and rolled/tipped with black awlgrip topcoat. Looks good and has held up 5 years later. Rolling and tipping black was tricky and ultimately had to do it indoors to minimize bugs and specks of dust getting on it.
  9. I had a tuff luff foil and am now using harkin as well. It works well for us. I think most of the racing FT10s have gotten rid of their furlers and have gone to just hank-on. Sail goes up and down pretty easy either way. An extra step for the bowman to tie-down if windy, but not really a big deal. A sail maker can change the vertical battens to horizontal, but it may not be worth it if its an old sail. I would not count on the furler for reefing. Way way better to get a smaller sail or reef the main. With the foil, the sail change will be a lot easier. It would better to save the money that
  10. Yes, bring SailX back!
  11. I picked up simrad TP10 tiller pilot on ebay and installed on my FT10 last fall. My goal was to keep it as simple, lightweight and minimalist as possible with it being a sportboat. I don't plan to cross oceans, just deliveries and something to hold the tiller while do occasional tasks single or double-handing. The only thing wished I had was wireless remote operation. I looked at the pelagic, but it just seemed like a bit of beast and overkill for my needs.
  12. It would be a bit unreliable of Ulman to promise and not follow through.
  13. Also have been looking for a less kludgy solution for a long time. Had high hopes for Pixel QI. A major problem with LCD tablets on deck is sunlight readability. E-ink seems like an obvious solution. I've been tempted to try the sailracer display http://sailracer.net/inkdisplay/ if I knew you could run Opencpn on it. It's waterproof and has large battery. Not sure about using as a repeater.
  14. The fractional spinnaker halyard was probably not original and is using the reefing line clutch.
  • Create New...