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thinwater

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About thinwater

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    Anarchist

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  • Website URL
    http://sail-delmarva.blogspot.com/2017/01/the-book-store.html

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  • Location
    Deale, MD
  • Interests
    Sailing, climbing, kayaking

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  1. Kind of a pitty about that. You have to mix it with poison (other solvents) so that you can't drink it, so then they don't want it in CA. In Canada they allow denaturing with Bitrex (used to make things like detergent and antifreeze undrinkable), which is less toxic, but the US does not approve Bitrex as a denaturant (there is a list). Maybe this will change. This also makes a fuel that burns with no odor. You can also use a stove top as a vented heater like this: Good Old Boat article Testing the idea on my boat. Heats the cabin on the coldest days, no humidity or smell, and ev
  2. I've had heavy weight Goretex wear. The first delaminated after about 10 years of light use. The second I gave away because I found I really didn't use it. If the weather is moderate, with a some rain or spray, I would MUCH rather wear lightweight gear that does not last as long. I'm OK with that. Mostly, the plastics go bad before 10 years anyway unless pointlessly babied, and maybe anyway. light gear is easier to move in. If it's bad and warm I probably still stay with the light stuff. If the weather is bad and cold, I switch to a dry suit. Better than foulies in man
  3. Let me direct you to the thread on disposal of old boats that aren't that old.... Also, unlike a house, a boat can sail off into the sunset. It seems quite obvious to me. It's a used boat. Either pay cash or use a LOC/HEL. Better yet, pay cash.
  4. I'm stunned that "hockle" challenged a sailing group. That's the problem with 3-strand. Double braid can herniate in a machine. Herniated dockline after machine washing
  5. In fact, most would not want one if you gave it to us. And the chlorine in a swimming pool is going to do nothing for the stiffness problem. Wrong chemistry.
  6. Obviously. The point was simply that we don't actually set them at 180 degrees, even when we think we have. They are actually at 140-160 degrees, when slack and catenary are considered in the equation. We set them at 180 degrees, perhaps, but we didn't pull out all of the slack. The other point is that bow-stern anchoring is only for conditions where significant exposure from the side is not possible.
  7. But if they are actually at 180 degrees, a cross wind is sure to pull them out (force goes to infinity) and keel fouling is a risk. So in practice, 120-140 degrees works better.
  8. Yes, this is the point. My preference is to test at relatively long scope with little chain: Long scope, because most claims of good holding at short scope are based on all-chain, which means the anchor was probably initially set with infinite scope which is... cheating. I've tested many anchors at honest short scope (no chain), and once scope goes below about 5:1, the results become extremely variable. from 5:1 to 3:1 they are crazy, and below 3:1 only Fortress/Danforth have enough hold to bother. In fact, if you look at the average fluke angle of about 25-28 degrees, it is obvio
  9. In practice, idiot resistance is important, because we can all be idiots when tired. Guilty here!
  10. In fact, chain and shackle bulk influence how an anchor buries. At short scope chain does change the process; initial setting is at long effective scope, which get the anchor buried, and the effective scope only becomes less when they load really comes on, by which time the anchor is buried. It's basically like setting at long scope and then shortening up, which is sometimes done with rope. It also changes the process of yawing a bit. Some people act like it's magic, but the reasons are simple, the differences are real, and chain is a simple, idiot-resistant way to get better anchor perfo
  11. I should have mentioned that a non-stretch rode is vital for static hold testing, and not chain (because chain catenary is like stretch). Either steel cable or Dyneema. Otherwise, how do you measure drag-in and creep?
  12. Actually, that brings up an interesting point. Anchored in the open, the most important characteristics may have to do with veer and reset. In a stern tie situation, the most important characteristic is high hold in a straight pull without creeping. Much simpler question, but that requires a different test rig. You can't use the engine. Instead, anchor the test boat (or work from shore) and slowly winch the anchor toward you. You want to measure drag-in distance AND sustained hold after the winching stops. How much tension can it maintain, without moving an inch, for at least 20 minu
  13. Was it clogged with grass and mud the second time as well? It is also possible that you had a bottom where any hook will get just under the grass roots and hold, but be prevented by the grass root from going deeper because the shank can be pulled through the roots. It will hold until either the wind shifts or grows past a certain point, then pop and not reset if clogged. We have that around here some places. I hate testing there, because the results are too variable. Yeah, that is a weakness of roll bar anchors. Any anchor would have popped, but another anchor might have reset. But i
  14. And probably just trying to get into the lee of that cliff. The sail is toast anyway; it probably tore due to age and wasn't going to be repairable.
  15. Yup. I resemble that. Not that I motor, more that I know how to do things more than one way now. I've had both, and honestly, I don't have strong feelings. There were things about hank-on sails I liked. But that was on a cat with a big foredeck, that made dealing with a hank on sail relaxing. Huge bow sail locker. As long as you kept control of the luff, not much could go wrong, even off the wind. I had a furler jam once. I pulled the sail down the foil and replaced the bearings a few days later. Otherwise, bear off, ease the sheets some, and roll it right up. How much you bear of
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