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Hadlock

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  1. Are you trying to prevent humidity build up I really struggled with this on my boat, finally broke down and got a name brand 70 pint decompessor dehumidifier. It was about $200. That's way cheaper than the number of hinges and tools that corroded before I bought this thing. This is in San Francisco. Inside, I only have about a 25 degree daily internal temp swing - 50-75F most days, but I've had really good luck balancing electric use and dry cabin keeping it at 65% If we go shrimping with the spinnaker or the boat gets put away wet, I'll set it to 55-60% RH and next weekend the boat
  2. If anyone can share some photos of that their under deck hydraulic setup, I'd greatly appreciate it. I've climbed around in my lazarette a couple times now but I don't see how there's a clean line to the quadrant as I've got hoses that intersect the parallel to the quadrant. In particular looking for the correct mounting location (hull or hanging from under cockpit sole?) and if you tie in directly to the quadrant, or I guess they sell an autopilot specific arm you can bolt around the rudder post. I don't see where there's room to add an extra arm to the rudder post. I am hull 431 if that
  3. Wildcard option: International 12 meter Huge international presence, existing/active world championship, look great on TV, and there's enough sitting in boneyards or rotting at anchor that even a poor country could compete by restoring an older model Jamacan Bobsled style. I see a turn-key one on Yachtworld today for $170,000 Probably would have to drop the double-handed requirement.
  4. Hadlock

    J/45

    Is there an option for a retractable bow sprit, or has that era passed now
  5. With newfound interest in containing covid, new cases ought to be dropping again in the data, just in time for everyone to travel to Grandma's house for Thanksgiving and cross-infect each other again
  6. This was covered in these two threads recently Since you can't be bothered to use the search function I'll repeat it again here You'll need to find out which of your FFD displays are NEMA capable. It'll be the one with the blue and red wires, probably attached to your GPS's NMEA0183 output. This is spelled out in grotesque detail in the manual, which is freely available online in PDF format. From there you can wire in any number of NMEA0183 to NMEA2000 multiplexer fun time devices ranging from $150 to $250. There is a remote possibility that someone shelled out $$ boat bucks for a
  7. Two year update: Well the float switch on my 70 pint humidifier kept triggering the unit and turning it off. Taped the switch in the "off" position semi-permanently. Dehumidifier drains out via hose anyways. Since April has kept the boat between 48% and 60% day and night, no issues. I leave mine at 55%, probably could move it to 60%. Would buy a new compressor dehumidifier same day if this one died. Really happy with it. Took the wife out for a day sail this weekend to enjoy a break from the wildfire smoke and she was alarmed at how dry the boat was - and also very pleased. Sen
  8. I've had the Vulcan 7 (or "Vulcan 7R", the latest revision for two seasons now in SF area. It is mounted in the nav station. I like it a lot better than the black and white circa 2001 Garmin GPSMAP 472 it replaced. I've wired up my Standard Horizon GX2200 to provide AIS via yacht devices YDNG-03N I've wired up my Hydra 2000 with a second YDNG03 to provide TWS, TWA and speed through water... also provides AWS, AWA... does not provide depth for some reason. The Vulcan 7 provides GPS back to the Hydra 2000. Apple: my wife's ancient first gen ipad is too old to run the B&G app, hav
  9. I ordered a Yacht Devices YDNG-03N from here, about $150. You'll need a NMEA 2000 "starter kit" to power and network it to anything ($50-100), the brand doesn't matter. https://www.yachtd.com/products/nmea0183_gateway.html And attached it to the... blue and purple? Blue and red? Blue and red. Wires off my NMEA-capable FFD 8 button display. I am able to get speed, TWS, AWS, TWA, AWA.... it does not see the depth for some reason, although depth shows up on my Hydra 2000 FFD. I am wired up to a B&G Vulcan 7 (or "Vulcan 7R" if someone is being specific with their search terms... the
  10. $4,000 for haul out and paint every other year $5,000 for rigging every 10 years My boat is going on 20 years now and I think we sunk about $2000 last year grafting the existing NMEA0183 B&G Hydra 2000 system into a NEMA 2000 chartplotter, as well as a V-60B AIS transponder radio, next year we will probably add an autopilot if this virus continues to limit racing to single handing. I expect that project to cost another $2500. I probably have another 5 years before it becomes difficult to find old Hydra 2000 compatible display units. A new Hydra H5000 setup is, ballparking, $15,00
  11. We're in our mid 30s dual income and were able to buy a used mid-30' J boat, and a house that's not completely falling apart and we're doing pretty ok among our peer group. At some point we're looking at upgrading to something like a used 40.7 or J/120 for future family expansion. We buy one new sail every three years but we're not trying to win trophies. I have no idea how anybody under 45 is supposed to afford a new 30'+ boat these days. By my age, my father had bought his third new Catalina, and we work in roughly the same field. I also do all my own maintenance and repairs as we could
  12. Herd immunity seems to be the solution to the Zika virus epidemic. Remember the magic virus that would shrink your child's brain to the size of a prune? Broad theory is that there's not enough mosquitoes for zika to propagate in more temperate areas, while tropical areas the local population has ~65% infection rate which is herd immunity for the R0 of zika. Zika never went away, it just faded into the background noise of viruses https://www.pbs.org/newshour/science/what-happened-to-zika Contrast to covid19 which does not need an intermediary host, and does not seem to be especially t
  13. 5.80 rules explicitly ban LiFePo4 (the safe lithium chemistry) batteries, demand only AGM used Banning lithium batteries in 2000 might have made sense, they were pretty exotic, expensive and popular chemistries were dangerous. At least a third of cruisers are investing in lithium batteries these days, seems strange that a one design boat would mandate older, less performant batteries. 1970s battery tech is not a place I would choose to restrict The big advantage for lithium batteries is that they maintain ~90% charging efficency all the way up to about 95% state of charge. AGM drops
  14. Lots of bay area WM chat in this thread Where is the best place to find 316 SS hardware, bolts etc in the bay area? I have some moderately obscure bolts on my portlights that need replacement. I've heard that Bowlin Bolts in Berkeley is an option, but looking for something on the peninsula, preferably open outside of regular business hours
  15. This isn't said enough. As long as the boat can move in and out of the marina under it's own power, the only maintenance you should ever do on a sailboat in the first five years should be to limit the amount of water coming in to the boat so that it is slower than the speed at which the bilge pump can push it back out again. it's a lot less painful to run into the dock at full speed because your transmission cable failed when you didn't just repaint the whole boat. And a thousand other things that can/will go wrong. Sail more. Plug leaks with chewing gum. Refloat as necessary.
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