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DDW

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Everything posted by DDW

  1. Something like a mast base - even a pretty complicated one - isn't hard to just draw up. And incorporate the wanted changes. When 3D metal printing gets cheaper, then scanning and printing become attractive for a lot more stuff because very little skilled labor is involved. I don't know how much was spent on building the new 1916 Peugeot motor, but somewhat more than the average sailboat, I'd think.
  2. Yeah, but executing the housing and shafts in carbon is a non-trivial exercise. Casting it in SS or bronze is pretty straightforward.
  3. An electric guitar isn't hurt much be weather. It's just a plank of wood after all. There are loads of travel type guitars that attempt to emulate an acoustic, I've got a couple. But they're really electric. A carbon bodied acoustic seems to be hard to get right, but some have come pretty close.
  4. It is pretty cool for visualization. Not good enough for fabrication, at least not the several apps I have tried. What App are you using?
  5. There are companies that will 3D scan a part and cast a new one. A friend of mine built a new motor for a 1916 Peugot race car that way, starting with a newly cast block. If I ever have to replace my drive leg, I might send the old one in and see.....
  6. It cannot be the price of energy to melt the metal that makes much difference. I'm quite familiar with machining aluminum and SS as I do a lot of it. Again, no where near 10x the difference. I'm not suggesting that Volvo should convert its entire line to exclusively SS. I'll bet they would get some takers if it were an option. If they'd just send me the prints I'd get it quoted :).
  7. I'll give you an order of magnitude for a one off. But that is probably true in aluminum as well. Saildrive legs are often near the middle of the boat (mine is), the leg is as low in the boat as pretty much anything can be, I do not think that is an issue outside of Grand Prix racing. I have machined plenty of aluminum and SS, given the choice I'd prefer SS in many cases, especially over cast aluminum which machines like gum. On the tooling, they are probably die casting the legs from aluminum (a guess) and you aren't going to use that tooling for casting SS - but if you have the drawings, fix
  8. Unfortunately, if it is sunny no way those panels will be only 40c. They get way too hot to touch. Real world example: the array on my house is rated at 4.5kW. When the sun hits it on a cold morning (at a shallow angle) I've seen as high as 5.2kW. Mid day, with the sun directly on them in the summer, can be as low 2.5kW. Fro the flexible panels on the boat it is much harder to quantify as they get shaded by different things, are pointing different directions, etc. - but in the sun, still too hot to touch.
  9. I don't do much casting, but some and I have had some quoted. There is also industry literature comparing the costs of casting. SS is denser, so the same casting will cost more in SS than aluminum, even though SS costs less per lb. SS melts at a higher temp, but around here there are shops that cast SS in many forms, Inconel, Ti, all kinds of things. The saildrive manufacturers are having the drive leg cast and retailing it for about $3000 last time I checked. If I am an order of magnitude out, they are losing a ton of money with each one they sell. If you just do one, it's going to be expensi
  10. I'd think profit would be a consideration. In the grand scheme, the casting would probably cost no more than a couple thousand, and probably substantially less. Stainless steel is actually cheaper/lb than aluminum. Casing it in in the investment process isn't much more expensive. I'd pay better than their average profit margin for that option.
  11. Just put on another coat over the intermediate coats you have there. Yes, all varnish coats are intermediate coats.
  12. Why can't you just keep going around the edges and bottom with Epifanes?
  13. If you are going to buy one of these (and you should) spend a little more and get the two camera version. These have two cameras, one that looks out the end and another near the end that looks sideways. This turns out to be incredibly useful in many situations. You can switch between views or even see both at once. Search for dual camera endoscope and pick your favorite brand.
  14. I have a standard one with polyester double braid. I can assure you it is bulky and very heavy. If this is something you expect to use often, dyneema would be worth the investment. You'd have to figure out how to do the boat terminations (can't really tie knots in it) and also figure out how to retrieve it (not sure it would work well on a winch, and a rolling hitch doesn't grab well. Maybe that has all been worked out, I don't know.
  15. Trying some of the 2K Max PU in the can. Instructions say 24 hours pot life once the seal is broken. Has anyone tried refrigerating the can, and did it extend pot life? Sometimes works with other PU paints. I had some small things I needed to get painted, might be ready for some more tomorrow with plenty still left in the can. When the pot life is done, I assume it is obvious - like comes out in spatters if at all?
  16. DDW

    Masthead camera

    The Axiom XL still has an analog input (2 actually). And it will encode one of them (Analog 2) and broadcast it as IP on the network so it can be viewed from any Axiom on the network.
  17. Engine start is usually the problem. 130A it must be a tiny engine. Having measured the engine start amps for several batteries on my motorcycle, sailplane auxiliary engine, and trawler motor, I've seen what happens: there is an initial current that is 2 or 3 times the cranking current as the starter motor starts out stalled and has to accelerate the engine. This is when the BMS will kick off. On my BMW 1250cc motorcycle the peak is about 170A for about 10 ms, dropping to about 60 - 110A cranking (varies with each compression stroke). The trawler motor (Cummins QSB 380 hp) initially takes a lo
  18. Sure, mechanical advantage is valid, whether the load is moving or not. For a block and tackle, count the number of lines leading away from the load end. That is your mechanical advantage. There are losses due to friction that increase with each turn through a sheave, but with reasonable tackles and equipment, these are low numbers. If you have a hylfield lever or some means to tension the stay in use, you might have a fixed cable on the stow hook and use that to tension things up.
  19. Just acquired, Blackbird Rider Nylon, for use on boat and other climatically challenged settings. All carbon, so it can be used as a paddle when all else fails:
  20. You are definitely going to want to test that. I've tested a number of batteries for max discharge spec, and there are plenty that do not meet their published spec or come anywhere near it. Rod Collins has done the same thing. Just because they printed it, doesn't make it true.
  21. I can't imagine their argon bill. It is being built with primarily Gr 2 Ti (basically pure) which I don't think is particularly notch sensitive. We will all be gone before that boat is EOL.
  22. It'd be a long trip for you, but there is a catamaran being built out of 100% titanium by Betts Boats in Washington state. Actually there is some carbon in the rig and fixtures. I think I'd prefer Ti to cupronickel.
  23. Unamplified guitar is fine. Amplified not so fine. Most unamplified musical instruments are Ok with me, though if it's going to be bagpipes or violin you better be pretty damn good at them.
  24. Volvo D2-75, saildrive is actually a ZF-Hurth product. Split zinc, no need to remove prop, takes only a few minutes. Drive leg is still aluminum though. It is oxygenated though. I'll take it over aluminum. I have a stainless prop on mine, no corrosion problems. Bronze or Ti would be preferable to either. If I'm in a wishing mood, I'd wish for Monel 400, but Ti is at least as corrosion resistant and lighter.
  25. DDW

    Masthead camera

    Been through this and the short answer is no. The Axiom does have a Raynet port (e-net by any other name....). The difficulty is that most IP cameras use protocols protected by passwords, and the Raymarine OS will not support them. There used to be an adapter they "recommended" without saying it would work, but that adapter has new firmware which requires the password and cannot be downrevved. I tried. There are some that claim to have made cheap wireless cameras work but I could not find any of the cameras they reference as the part numbers churn almost daily. Easiest is going to be pay 10x t
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