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Everything posted by Roleur

  1. The answer is obvious, aside from the shower. J/111. Lower cost than a J/99, faster than a J/109, and better in LIS light air than either. Has a sink forward, but no shower. Went down that road last year. Super, super happy with our choice. One local 109 owner switched to a 111 this year and another 109 owner is thinking 111 once the 109 sells.
  2. Nope. That is the rule for boats built before 2000. Now it says it must be on deck or in a dedicated watertight locker. Some races, like Pacific Cup, delete the built after 2000 rule, and allow smaller rafts stowed below, but that has to be an exception granted by the race organizer. PNW Offshore and Van Isle 360 do not have that exception, for instance.
  3. That's not allowed for Cat 1/Ocean/Coastal races. Only boats built before 2000 can do that.
  4. We've heard - put it under the tiller. Okay, but then it sits on top of the emergency tiller access port. That doesn't seem ideal. Any better location?
  5. We have our headstay length right at the Quantum recommendation with Quantum sails. Tried more rake to get more helm, but it just sucked in anything over 6 knots. Put it back to the recommendation and she lit up again.
  6. Come up to Seattle for Race to the Straits in 2 weeks. There are already 2 J/99's entered.
  7. What changed? They were very quick in the windiest Pac Cup ever, in 2016, setting a course record.
  8. Yes. Neither are spectacular at that. Both are optimized for breezier locations. Your J/88 is a better choice. If light air racing is one of your goals, then keep searching.
  9. Van de Heede's old Cigare Rouge in the background.
  10. Pretty interesting. 15 months out and the race is already to a waitlist. 26 DH entries, which I believe is a record. 22 entries from the PNW, which is also a record. 24 boats signed up in the last 10 days! There is a lot of pent up demand to go ocean racing!
  11. This is on a J/111, strictly for racing. Yes, DC converter stops when voltage drops below charging voltages. That works well. No LVD. Not really concerned about low voltage as there is little load. Just concerned about overcharging and weight. I think the alternator is 75A or 80A. It's an OEM Hitachi on a Yanmar 20hp. The DC Converter has the added bonus of not maxing out the alternator when charging straight to the lithium battery without a smart regulator.
  12. Haven't tried yet. That's next on the list. Actually using the StripChart is next, then that. Are you able to receive, but not send?
  13. With an OEM internal regulator for the alternator, there is no good way to charge a lithium battery directly. We started down the path of trying to just add an external regulator for the Hitachi alternator, but when Balmar said we needed to take the alternator apart to solder a wire, or take it to a shop, we bailed on that idea. Living on an island we can't just drive over to a "shop". The DC Converter was within my DIY capabilities. Yes, 30A is minimal, but for 99% of our use, it is plenty as the house battery has very little load. For long offshore races the plan is to add a secon
  14. Over 80 now. 3 more DH boats signed up, bringing the total DH fleet to 26!!! There are also well over 20 boats from the PNW, which is crazy. At some point they are going to have start a waitlist. I believe they only have space for something like 75 boats at KYC. They'll let it go over that a bit as they know there will be attrition, but we are still 16 months out and I don't see them letting it go over 100.
  15. I think the need for youngsters for the foredeck went out the door with symmetrical kites. I'm 50 and sail with my wife double-handed on a J/111. I do most of the sail changing while my wife drives. I'm the thinking the age excuse is in your head only.
  16. Yep. NKE doesn't make autopilot drives. I don't think B&G does either.
  17. I figured it out! In the Number Boxes, the Boat was not set to the correct boat that I was connected to. Not obvious why you would want it to be for any other boat, but whatever. It still says NO Position Fix at the bottom of the chart, but it shows the boat in the correct location, and I can show lat lon in the Number Boxes. AIS works too! Winning.
  18. They are different as expected. The incoming voltage is whatever the current voltage is off the starter battery, the output voltage is 0.2V lower than the house battery. I didn't check to see if the incoming voltage was accurate as it isn't critical. But as an example, the input voltage might be 14.6 (engine on and alternator charging) and the output voltage 14.2. Or if I turn off the engine on requirement the input voltage might be 12.5 and output voltage still 14.2. That doesn't work so well, since it will drain our tiny 20Ah starter battery in a hurry at 30A, but with the engine on req
  19. The DC converter doesn't have a screen, but connects to a phone via Bluetooth for display information. Your comment about powering the unit may still be correct.
  20. Just added a DC-DC converter so that our "dumb" alternator regulator can charge a small lead-acid start battery and then the DC converter can charge the lithium house battery with proper voltage setpoints. All is well, except the battery voltage for both the start and house batteries shown by the DC converter are very different than what the Victron BMV shows. This is with zero current and proper cable sizing over fairly short runs, so voltage drop shouldn't be an issue. The DC converter shows 0.2V lower numbers than the BMV, and the BMV matches a multi-meter at the battery terminals pretty
  21. Just getting Expedition going. I've successfully connected the laptop to my NKE Box WiFi and I can see the NMEA 0183 Raw Data in Expedition, so it seems like I'm on the right track, but I don't see anything in the Number Boxes and no GPS coordinates for my location on the chart. Feel like I'm very close, but I must be missing something, hopefully simple. Any ideas?
  22. We have an L&S hydraulic ram that remains connected all the time. It is better connected as it provides a little resistance which makes maneuvers easier. This was the case on our J/120 and now on our J/111.
  23. We DH our J/111 with a wheel. The helm is very neutral so we can let go of the wheel for big tugs here and there, or just lean on the wheel for tailing halyards, for example. We switch off on trimming the main. The crew trims the main, unless they are busy doing something else. When we hoist the kite, the driver tails the halyard, then grabs the spin sheet which is laid within reach before the hoist, while leaning against the wheel. Not so different than trimming with both hands, with the tiller in your hand, something many of us learned as kids. I think the biggest challenge on ou
  24. A J/70? Seems to tick most of your boxes and one added benefit is there are currently 8 of them racing actively over on West Sound on Orcas.
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