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Roleur

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Posts posted by Roleur

  1. The answer is obvious, aside from the shower.  J/111.  Lower cost than a J/99, faster than a J/109, and better in LIS light air than either.  Has a sink forward, but no shower.  Went down that road last year.  Super, super happy with our choice.  One local 109 owner switched to a 111 this year and another 109 owner is thinking 111 once the 109 sells.  

  2. 9 minutes ago, adrianl said:

    I think the rules say it has to get to the rail in 15 secs so a scared man can throw the damn thing out the hatch!! A 6 man Winslow valise weighs 36 lbs

    Under the tiller behind the traveller is where I had mine on the J100

    Nope.  That is the rule for boats built before 2000.

    Now it says it must be on deck or in a dedicated watertight locker.  Some races, like Pacific Cup, delete the built after 2000 rule, and allow smaller rafts stowed below, but that has to be an exception granted by the race organizer.  PNW Offshore and Van Isle 360 do not have that exception, for instance.

  3. We have our headstay length right at the Quantum recommendation with Quantum sails.  Tried more rake to get more helm, but it just sucked in anything over 6 knots.  Put it back to the recommendation and she lit up again.  

  4. On 3/8/2021 at 7:13 AM, Rainy Day Sailor said:

    Our light wind jib is not overlapping but it was built as large as possible. In fact with too much back stay it will rub against the spreaders.  This isn’t a problem because the sail is only rated to 13 knots.  Not TWS, but the gusts.  We have had to change the sail out in several races because of this.  However, the sail gets the boat moving in 1 to 3 knots, but 0-2 we get passed by boats with drifters and overlapping head sails.  And yes the sail is built with lighter material and has a bit deeper draft.  For our usage, I don’t think a code sail is justifiable.  We hardly ever reach while racing and we do have an A3.  I have to say if my Budget was bottom less I’d have one.  If you live where the racing is done in light winds this sail is very good and you should look into it.  Our regular #1 starts working well in 5 to 6 knots, but I’d take this sail over it in that wind strength.  The boat seems much more powered and you can point a bit higher.  Hopefully this helps, good luck.  

    Come up to Seattle for Race to the Straits in 2 weeks.  There are already 2 J/99's entered.

  5. 1 hour ago, danstanford said:

    Pelle, I won't be reaching other than when I am cruising so the extra speed is not that important there. One thing that will separate good from bad in my racing will be light air performance particularly upwind. Any thoughts there? 

    Yes.  Neither are spectacular at that. Both are optimized for breezier locations. Your J/88 is a better choice.   If light air racing is one of your goals, then keep searching. 

    • Like 2
  6. On 3/12/2021 at 10:39 AM, furler49 said:

    Check out Axel Tréhin Skipper - he's the proud owner of a new Class40 #162 and has this week been sailing with: 

    Kevin Escoffier 

    Thomas Coville 

    Vincent Riou 

    AND Nicolas Trousell 

    From what I gather they were all blown away by the boat (Raison design I think)! Pretty cool ay! 

    The below is taken from his Facebook page (google translate) 

    "Can you imagine Neymar, Messi and Mbappé coming to the training of a national player just for the sake of the game and share some professional secrets?
    Vincent Riou, Team Sodebo Voile - Thomas Coville, Kevin Escoffier - PRB ... in a few weeks, my # Class40 Project Rescue Ocean had the immense privilege of being helmed by excellent sailors, and I could not be more touched and happy that they wanted to join me to help develop the full speed potential of our new car ...
    Sailing is a sport where experience and sensations play a huge role, which is why the values of sharing and transmission are so important. But I am always amazed to see how much they are still present, even after winning the Vendée Globe, being the fastest man around the world, or crisscrossing the globe countless times on the most beautiful and most technical boats. never built ... Quite frankly, I think we would gain a lot by applying this scheme to many other areas of society!
    And for the little anecdote, I am very happy to have been able to contribute to this transmission by bringing on board a few very promising young people, including a certain Eliott Coville, who obviously inherited certain paternal talents ..."159764831_3747839438664694_1332583513059049887_o.thumb.jpg.64c1b2933579b05617e057184582b201.jpg159922491_3747839791997992_8571175754396928836_o.thumb.jpg.037c1c7d9358e936c5189693c13b9630.jpg159644896_3747839555331349_6965134362329128885_o.thumb.jpg.451ee6f6e791c5bf1724596c76b3a5c2.jpg

    Van de Heede's old Cigare Rouge in the background.

    • Like 1
  7. 6 minutes ago, b393capt said:

    How big is the alternator?
    Is the DC-DC converter set up to stop charging the house after the source voltage drops below 13.5 vdc or from the engine key switch?
    What other circuit level protection do you have for your lithium batteries? e.g. disconnect on low voltage, etc?

    This is on a J/111, strictly for racing.  Yes, DC converter stops when voltage drops below charging voltages.  That works well.  No LVD.  Not really concerned about low voltage as there is little load.  Just concerned about overcharging and weight.  I think the alternator is 75A or 80A.  It's an OEM Hitachi on a Yanmar 20hp.  The DC Converter has the added bonus of not maxing out the alternator when charging straight to the lithium battery without a smart regulator.

  8. With an OEM internal regulator for the alternator, there is no good way to charge a lithium battery directly.  We started down the path of trying to just add an external regulator for the Hitachi alternator, but when Balmar said we needed to take the alternator apart to solder a wire, or take it to a shop, we bailed on that idea.  Living on an island we can't just drive over to a "shop".  The DC Converter was within my DIY capabilities.  

    Yes, 30A is minimal, but for 99% of our use, it is plenty as the house battery has very little load.  For long offshore races the plan is to add a second DC converter in parallel, so we can get 60A of charging.  That plus 300W of solar will get us to minimal engine run times. 

    My main concern here is avoiding overcharging or improperly charging the lithium battery.  That and weight savings.  Having a tiny start battery, lithium house battery and DC Converter, with an OEM alternator seems like one of the lowest weight options.  

    • Like 1
  9. Over 80 now.  3 more DH boats signed up, bringing the total DH fleet to 26!!!  There are also well over 20 boats from the PNW, which is crazy.  At some point they are going to have start a waitlist.  I believe they only have space for something like 75 boats at KYC.  They'll let it go over that a bit as they know there will be attrition, but we are still 16 months out and I don't see them letting it go over 100.  

  10. On 2/26/2021 at 11:28 AM, danstanford said:

    After letter boxing, are you launching the kite from the companionway as well? I have never done the letter box drop or even dropped to the companionway because I was focused on the next hoist...and well I often am not taking a chance to change things when I need to. We have struggled with douses in heavy air including ripping a kite up the middle last year after shrimping it so we are looking at alternatives. We also are a bunch of middle aged folks with no agile youngsters for the foredeck when it gets rough. 

    I think the need for youngsters for the foredeck went out the door with symmetrical kites.  I'm 50 and sail with my wife double-handed on a J/111.  I do most of the sail changing while my wife drives.  I'm the thinking the age excuse is in your head only.  

    • Like 3
  11. I figured it out!  In the Number Boxes, the Boat was not set to the correct boat that I was connected to.  Not obvious why you would want it to be for any other boat, but whatever.

    It still says NO Position Fix at the bottom of the chart, but it shows the boat in the correct location, and I can show lat lon in the Number Boxes.  AIS works too!  Winning.

  12. They are different as expected.  The incoming voltage is whatever the current voltage is off the starter battery, the output voltage is 0.2V lower than the house battery.  I didn't check to see if the incoming voltage was accurate as it isn't critical.  But as an example, the input voltage might be 14.6 (engine on and alternator charging) and the output voltage 14.2.  Or if I turn off the engine on requirement the input voltage might be 12.5 and output voltage still 14.2.  That doesn't work so well, since it will drain our tiny 20Ah starter battery in a hurry at 30A, but with the engine on requirements it works great.  

  13. Just added a DC-DC converter so that our "dumb" alternator regulator can charge a small lead-acid start battery and then the DC converter can charge the lithium house battery with proper voltage setpoints.  All is well, except the battery voltage for both the start and house batteries shown by the DC converter are very different than what the Victron BMV shows.  This is with zero current and proper cable sizing over fairly short runs, so voltage drop shouldn't be an issue.  The DC converter shows 0.2V lower numbers than the BMV, and the BMV matches a multi-meter at the battery terminals pretty closely.  Kind of an issue, since the whole point of the DC converter is to optimize the charge voltage setpoints.  Defeats the purpose if the setpoints end up off by 0.2V.  

    Any ideas?

  14. Just getting Expedition going.  I've successfully connected the laptop to my NKE Box WiFi and I can see the NMEA 0183 Raw Data in Expedition, so it seems like I'm on the right track, but I don't see anything in the Number Boxes and no GPS coordinates for my location on the chart.  Feel like I'm very close, but I must be missing something, hopefully simple.  

    Any ideas?  

  15. 6 hours ago, danstanford said:

    I had wondered about this. I have only had a wheel pilot and a tiller pilot both of which need to be disconnected when not in use in my experience. Can you comfortably sail with the below deck pilots off but connected all the time? How do you disconnect them when needed? 

    We have an L&S hydraulic ram that remains connected all the time.  It is better connected as it provides a little resistance which makes maneuvers easier.  This was the case on our J/120 and now on our J/111.

    • Like 2
  16. We DH our J/111 with a wheel.  The helm is very neutral so we can let go of the wheel for big tugs here and there, or just lean on the wheel for tailing halyards, for example.  We switch off on trimming the main.  The crew trims the main, unless they are busy doing something else.  When we hoist the kite, the driver tails the halyard, then grabs the spin sheet which is laid within reach before the hoist, while leaning against the wheel.  Not so different than trimming with both hands, with the tiller in your hand, something many of us learned as kids.  

    I think the biggest challenge on our boat is that it is hard to trim the spin on a winch and drive at the same time.  Mostly not needed DH, but if it is an overnight race, or the crew is up forward doing something like getting the next headsail ready, it is helpful.  It is possible to hold onto the wheel and trim, but not change course and trim at the same time.  

    Each has its pro's and con's.  Not sure either is clearly better.  

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