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Haligonian Winterr

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About Haligonian Winterr

  • Rank
    Super Anarchist
  • Birthday 06/19/1994

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  • Location
    Halifax, NS
  • Interests
    Going Fast.

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  1. +/- both arguments. Paint is $$ but will outlast wrap. Paint is heaver but arguably faster. Wrap can last in the ocean if sealed properly (laid up back-front, and INSIST on name-brand 3M edge sealer). Also easily patcheable if you only use the 6/600 rule. Brunel went around the world with yellow wrap... HW
  2. Selden is generally quite serviceable. Spend time taking apart the lower unit, there will likely be parts in there that could use replacing if the standing rigging is up for replacement (bearings, etc). Be generous with the heat (MAP gas is your friend), and expect to replace a few fasteners. HW
  3. +1 spinlock. Haven't used the DV but generally spinlock has better execution, engineering and serviceability than all the other antal gear I've worked with. ZS are bombproof, as long as they're kept clean (fresh water flush). Put in ceramic jaws for extra grip if you've got very high tech covers. HW
  4. If you're looking to eliminate the wire weight, bond the rod to the top of the mainsail track (short wire) then to a keel bolt at the bottom. This is the way most big carbon rigs are done. Extra wires in the boat sound like an extraneous bonding system. HW
  5. Tulips are the tits. Spec for highest load case scenario (probably beating with max jib/max TWS cross-sheeted). Adjustable clew-hobbles are worth their weight in gold for swapping winches and leads. For chafe, bent stainless plates are most durable, moulded carbon by far the easiest to install. HW
  6. Gore-Tex 3L/Pro/Mil-spec is only a difference in the outer fabric. Mil-spec is toughest and heaviest, Pro is the top end of what most manufacturers use (Patagonia, Arcteryx, TNF, Musto, etc), 3L is lighter and more flexible, slightly more breathable but less durable. Also Gore-tex has it's own warranty, so if your HL or Musto gear leaks, and the manufacturer won't warranty, normally Gore will service/replace it for you (I had this with Musto salopettes). Realistically all companies offer the same thing. So it comes down to fit, style, or whoever you can get discount/prodeal/custome
  7. Single spreader was mostly brought along to increase jib area via geometry. See also double spreader/split shrouds mast (short lowers, long uppers, independant caps from "D1/V1/D2"). This allows the leech to protrude into the normally straight section of the spreader (which is now boomeranged). C40s have been doing it I believe to reduce weight and windage aloft by improving tube engineering/construction eliminating the need for top spreader, and adding a second D above the spreader. Lighter, less windage, increased sail area. Cons are it's harder to tune but it's a min
  8. Stencils from your local vinyl guy, paint, then top coat with clear nonskid. Or no topcoat, they will stick fine if it's prepped properly. As Bump said make sure you measure a few doze time for symmetry (helpful to measure from centreline as well, as most jib tracks aren't symmetrical side-side). We've used a shorter line every second mark to make it easier to reference. These can be supplemented with sharpie for different modes/conditions/sails, but it will fade thorugh the season. HW Edit: Also worth putting a vinyl strip/arrow on the car so there's never
  9. Less is more, and crew numbers are king. Try and reduce the things on board first through sharing or just eliminating, and assign numbers to personal items. To get "invisible" mountings you generally have to go quite expensive or custom. Canvas snaps are reliable and surprisingly strong. If you have settees with a lip or deep locker, you can drape the pocket over the lip to protect the wood and hide the fasteners. Velcro is also incredible in sheer as long as it's not in a traffic area. Also make sure you fabricate the pockets only big enough to hold the specific item. Mug, water bot
  10. Use old hole's size holesaw as a guide, spun onto the stud inside the new larger hole. Cutting wax is helpful on the bottom bit for heat. HW
  11. I would vote thimble empirically stronger on the bench, however I trust a splice more. Less parts usually means less failure, and I've had pin mousings get torn off on the bottom before. HW
  12. They usually don't. And when they do, its a crushing failure of the sides of the ring collapsing. This would also be a good place for a "sacrificial" loop that takes the chafe/friction loss, that is basketed into the eye of th backstay which also has the safety on it. Safety can also act as a "max-ease" stop, for top mark roundings. HW
  13. Friction is higher, but not enough to justify blocks if you're shy about the price. Make sure you cover dyneema that the ring will hang from (don't build it like the photo, ironically) as the dyneema provides the low friction for the ring to sping. Also if you're going to splice on a safety, make sure it goes directly into the eye of the backstay. The 36.7 photo shown will result in a lost mast if the block explodes. Also note there are other brands available. Morfblock, ino-bloc etc. HW
  14. They are niche dinghy/windsurfing jackets made from neoprene, cut to fit over the rest of your gear. Similar to an alpine belay jacket. https://kiteboarding.com/products.asp?cat=Neoprene+Hoodies HW
  15. You don't need yearly stay replacement if you're shimming a mast unless you're tuning between 40+ and nuclear every time you go sailing. Buy/Make shims, sail with the jack at 0. HW
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