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Haligonian Winterr

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55 Kiss-ass

About Haligonian Winterr

  • Rank
    Super Anarchist
  • Birthday 06/19/1994

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  • Location
    Halifax, NS
  • Interests
    Going Fast.

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  1. If you're going to buy new, just cut the housing into segments. Make sure the cuts are tapered out so they don't lock in the segment you've just released. Even screwing up a few cuts by going to deep is guaranteed to be less damage to the hull/sleeve than using a hole saw. Make sure you have new part specs in hand before going to town. HW
  2. Close, but through-drill instead of tapped, and a flat on the bottom to accept washer/nut. So it was a rod with two threaded ends, instead of a length of all-thread. Was also reasonable beefy, in the range of 70mm dia drill hole IIRC. HW
  3. We did a keel bolt "replacement" on a catalina 27 by sistering existing bolts with new machined rod held in with half-round bar insterted in a transverse hole drilled through the fin. Red loctite, safety wire, epoxy to seal, and offset from originals in the bilge enough to not affect laminate. Originals stayed in place. HW
  4. Oversize, pre-stretch and choose the correct fibre. The last set I made were DM20 that sat on a bench for a whole day bedding the splices. SK99 heat-set will also work. HW
  5. Heat set Dyneema does everything that "normal" dyneema does, and generally better. Fine for blocks, most racing halyards are now heat set. HW
  6. Recommend getting a neoprene cover made for the clutches. Antal handles have a habit of finding jib sheets and spare halyards at the most inconvenient times. HW
  7. Make sure you put a regular stainless washer top/bottom of the fitting to protect the nylon.
  8. The core stitching is so the eye doesnt change diameter when you're pulling the cover on. If you have very tight cover, it will milk the outside of the splice over the bury, reducing the eye diameter and usually fucking with the math to make the eye cover perfect tension. Milking the splice (very) hard before pulling into core, and having as much tension as humanly possible on the core while pulling in helps. HW
  9. +1. I've recently switched methods to cover-last method instead of cover in the middle steps. Poly is a bit tougher to splice than Dyneema cover as it's thicker. Key for all of this is how much slack you push into the cover (to take extra diameter from Dyneema bury and cover bury) before you start splicing. Good base is 4-5x diameter of core, but all ropes are different. HW
  10. Have used inflatables and roll-ups, they have similar weights (not counting plumbing, which is same as kite bladder plumbing). Biggest disadvantage to inflatables is forgetting to deflate them before you roll (or tack, if you have fixed babystay), and repeatedly blowing the overpressure valve. Not comparable to normal battens, but I think they do trim better than verticals. HW
  11. +1 for shaker siphon. No moving parts, no real plastic bits to fail, rolls up into a 4L ziploc. HW
  12. Late to the game. Dual rudder toe in is about getting the windward rudder at 0deg AOA when sailing normally. And toe-in is not set and forget, it should be changed with conditions and average rudder angle (but rarely is). HW
  13. Probably only 2 or three bungees. Bungee length is relative to drum diameter, number of wraps needed to furl the sail, and deflection of furling line off of the normal run, not the length of the furling line itself. I would say one each for P/S prodder furlers, and one for jibs, depending on leads of furling lines into pit, and whether they're spliced in place or laid on the side deck. HW
  14. This much cover slack is usually construction related. Much more common on cheap rope, can also be cause by poor splicing (but has to be really bad to get all the way to the winch). HW
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