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George Dewey

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Posts posted by George Dewey

  1. 28 minutes ago, slug zitski said:

    Yah , sailing is expensive and requires free time 

    It is expensive for the owners, but when you consider that at least for keelboat racing, if there are 10 people on boat, typically 90% of them are not owners. As others have said, most owners have to go looking for crew and I would think that for the vast majority, skin color is not a consideration. Showing up reliably and being willing to learn are considerations and no, I am not implying these traits are only found in white people.

    I would point out, though, that with most kids, video games are more appealing and don't require parents to drive them to a marina. Kids in their 20s are focused on video games and new jobs and dating, people in their 30s are starting families, people in their 40s are taking kids to soccer games every weekend... I think any hobby (except maybe soccer) has trouble competing with all that.

    I expect this thread will devolve quickly. Firing up the popcorn popper...  

    • Like 1
  2. 30 minutes ago, Quickstep192 said:

    Any thoughts on how to rig the bobstay to the end of the sprit?

    New England Yacht Rigging made this custom sprit end for my J/111. You can see the bobstay feeds into it. Inside the sprit is a system that automagically retracts the bobstay when we retract the sprit, and lets it feed out when we extend it. Of course, we always have to fully extend for any sail. My Code Zero is North (a slightly older design I think) with a top down furler. Under the drum is a shackle that we connect to that loop. 

    Excuse the dock line and headsail feeder, this was taken at the slip, standing on the bow.

     

    IMG_3237.JPG

  3. 37 minutes ago, darth reapius said:

    Growth in rudder bearings god fucking damn that sucks. The growth happening here at the moment is insane, the guys racing I catch them cleaning their bottoms WEEKLY.

    Oh I have always cleaned weekly. I don't have an articulating keel but the diver manages to keep the growth out of the folding prop gears without any trouble.  

  4. 2 hours ago, Blue Crab said:

    Reminds me of a guy who spent a small fortune building a 46' catamaran using polyester for glue and hammered in all the screws, commenting the heads and threads were for removal. Broke up on second voyage ... wasting 5 years of the "Captain's" life plus the actual money.

    Hotrod?

  5. 1 minute ago, SloopJonB said:

    Torx shouldn't even be on a boat so...

    I did a headstay tang with Allen heads once and clocked them - decided I wouldn't bother again because it just wasn't noticeable.

    I just didn't think of it. Basically, one guy put as much force on the nut as he could from below, then we added another 1/4 turn or so from up top, where we could get a lot more leverage. But here's the thing... I won't be able to see it from the helm! 

  6. 4 hours ago, Quickstep192 said:

    Gotta love it when a plan comes together. 

    Why is the headstay too short; didn't it fit before?
     

    Maybe you need to ease the backstay a bit?
     

     

     

    It's a whole new headstay, with a Tuff Luff. All the hardware is new, including the toggle at the top. 

    I'm pretty sure the issue is that the toggle won't articulate freely, and therefore will not angle down enough. A close look at the pic shows where the old toggle sat. The new one you see there won't move any lower. The old toggle was 1/4 or 1/2 inch longer. Sadly I didn't have a long enough clevis pin on hand to use that one. 

  7. On 12/4/2021 at 12:25 AM, Kristian Seascape said:

    The keel's  load case was calculated for max loading when you ground with the long keel (2,55m).

    Wow, an 8 foot 4 inch keel! That's going to limit owners a bit, and make over road transport a pain (at least here in the US). I couldn't tell from your description, but is the keel bolted and glued or just bolted? Being able to drop the keel for transport or repair would be handy. 

  8. This job finally got done today! We don't race in December so waiting made sense. If something went wrong (and it did) we wouldn't have to miss any racing.

    Three crew members and I tackled it. We used the suggestion to lock two nuts together and turn the bolts out from below. Once they got backed out as far as possible, we used a breaker bar with a giant bit. They were in there very tight, it took some muscle to back them out from below. I had planned to apply some heat, but somehow the heat gun got misplaced. Once the bolts were out, we squirted Anti-bond around the edges and into the bolt holes then attacked it with a guitar string. To my amazement, the bracket popped off in no time. We then cleaned the rest of the bedding material (5200 or whatever it was) off the bracket and deck, applied some bedding tape to the new bracket and put it back together. Took about two hours total.

    That part of the job went fine. Sadly, the toggle at the top of the new headstay was a smidgen too short, and the headstay would not angle down enough. I have a call into the rigger for a longer toggle, but once thats in hand I should be all set.

    Thanks to everyone for all the great advice, and to @Quickstep192 who generously sent me some bedding tape and guitar strings. 

    Cheers!

    IMG_3591.JPG

    IMG_3589.JPG

    new-bracket.jpeg

    IMG_3601.JPG

    • Like 4
  9. 1 hour ago, Kristian Seascape said:

    Keel is coming end of next week, rig is coming a week latter and the spinny is not ordered. However, asymetric with 160m2 is on stock already...

    Who is making the spar? Is the boom aluminum? 

  10. 7 hours ago, fcfc said:

    The typical computing power available at that time was a Pentium 166, with 16 Megabytes RAM. Close to insignificant compared to my current smartphone.  And the top OS was Windows 95. I do not speak of Finite Element composite analysis at that time.

    Yet somehow, about 30 years earlier, we managed to land men on the moon and return them safely, flying them in craft designed with slide rules and using a guidance computer equipped with core rope memory and such.

    I agree that we should not let the Cheeki Rafiki incident color every Beneteau ever made, but let's not blame that incident on Windows 95. I mean, yeah it did suck, but still...  

  11. In addition to the issues mentioned above, cheap LED bulbs can emit radio frequency noise that can interfere with your VHF radio. The CG issued a bulletin on this.  Also, cheap LEDs don't have constant current circuitry and can dim as battery voltage drops. Finally, there are stories (and they may just be stories) around about insurance companies deciding that fixtures with non-approved bulbs were contributors to an accident.

    If you do a lot of sailing at night and want LED bulbs to save power, then get an entire LED fixture. As someone mentioned, Marine Beam has some excellent choices that will even run under water. Not cheap, but hey, it's a boat. 

  12. 4 minutes ago, Trevor B said:

    Bare headed.
    Practice it and you should be under 40 seconds from full speed to full speed. 
    Obviously using a second set of sheets and a MartinBreaker. 

    I guess we can do this too, if the new one is ready to go I can see this being quick. 

  13. Thanks very much everyone. Our lead bow guy and I are digesting all this.

    It sounds like the basic rule is always hoist the first kite on the upper halyard. For the peel, hoist on the lower halyard inside the existing chute and drop the old one behind and below the new one. If we need to peel again, gybe first. This way the free halyard in on the windward side (inside) of the existing chute. I suppose we could walk the halyard around the headstay but in the dark or big seas that's less than ideal.  

  14. 1 hour ago, 3apc said:

    You're going to want a second tack line - a strop works if you can get to the end of the pole/sprit (or if it can be temporarily tacked to the bow and later transferred) which isn't really the case here. Not saying it can't be done but it wouldn't be ideal.

    You're also going to want to hoist the new kite inside, on the lower of your halyards.

    You generally don't need extra turning blocks aft, as long as the sheaves can fit two sheets through temporarily. Fiddles work if it gives you peace of mind that nothing is going to get tangled.

     

    56 minutes ago, ryley said:

    I find that when we're peeling kites we can do it with both sheets through the block. once everything is sorted we might remove the inactive sheet, but depends on how long we'll have things up.

    Yes I'm thinking since the hardware is in place to go for the second tack line approach, if for no other reason then the bow team needs to learn one less thing this way. On the blocks, they are only as wide as one sheet, did you mean it's okay for the new active sheet to be on top of the old one, so there is a piece of line between the shive and new sheet? I can't see how that would work, but I'll run a few pieces of sheet in there and see what happens. 

    On the tack line, how long should a tack line be? It seems to me it should be long enough to allow a letter box drop without having to disconnect it. 

    On the second peel (if that happens) would we hoist it outside since it's now on the upper halyard?

    Thanks guys!!!

     

  15. 4 minutes ago, Irrational 14 said:

    Crossing halyards is not preferred so try and mange this by predicting what your sail order may be but you can get away with it on a very short leg.

    Oh, my halyards are above and below each other, I forgot to mention that in the original post.

  16. I want to set my J/111 (so 36 feet LOA with an 8 foot bowsprite) up for asym peels. I have only been sailing this boat since July and it's my first asym boat, so I would appreciate some help deciding how to set this up and do it.

    I think I need a second block on each quarter and a second set of sheets. The bowsprit end is set up with two low friction rings, and both sides of the cabin house have line guides and a clutch. I currently have one tackline on the starboard side. I think the fittings on the port side were for the headsail furler, but I'm getting rid of that.

    We sail a mix of W/L and short harbor races and offshore, so doing a peel won't be a common event. Still, in my last race it would have been a big benefit to switch from an A3 to an A2 toward the end of the race, but we couldn't short of going bareheaded. 

    Given a second tack line is extra weight and another string that won't be used too often, might it be better to go with a changing strope? If it's harder for the crew, probably not, but I would appreciate opinions on this. I could also just rig the second tackline when doing an offshore race.

    Up top, the spinn halyards are above and below each other. That being the case, does it matter if the new spinn goes up inside or outside the old one?

    Thanks!

     

     

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