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George Dewey

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Posts posted by George Dewey

  1. 4 hours ago, Quickstep192 said:

    As for re-bedding it, I'm a fan of Bed-It butyl caulk. Way less mess than anything that comes in a tube. If you want to go that route, I can send you enough to do that plate. If you're willing to try a guitar string to release it, I'll send you one of those too. 

    Thanks!!!  I'll PM you.

  2. 4 hours ago, Quickstep192 said:

    Color me confused now. If it's on there like stink and you intend to put it back, why are you taking it off? 

    The existing plate is where the headstay connects, and there is currently a furler on the headstay. There is nowhere at the deck to tack a sail, because the boat was designed to use the furler. J Boats made a retrofit kit to allow sails to be tacked to the deck for people who want to get rid of the furler. I need to slip a new plate under the existing one. This new plate has a thingy to tack sails to.

     

    IMG_3555.JPG

  3. 5 minutes ago, Quickstep192 said:

    I've done that same thing with a stanchion base bedded in 4200. I was prying with a putty knife and when the base started to move, I got greedy and pried too hard and some gelcoat came off. And that was with 4200. 

    When I put it back together, given there are these 4 very large bolts holding it together, I presume I won't need any 5200 or 4200?  Just some silka or Life Caulk maybe? Even if it leaks, it's going to leak into the anchor locker. 

  4. 6 minutes ago, Dacron said:

    Newport to Bermuda.
    Transpac.  

    Both require Capsize screen of 115 minimum.  Unmodified deep keel 36.7 is around 112.

    This is right, also I think Marion to Bermuda and possibly (not sure about this) Halifax. I had a talk with Farr Yacht Design and, to get ready for the cancelled N2B race, and spent a lot of time and money designing and installing a "shoe" or plate for the bottom of my 36.7 keel to get it to the 115 number. The 36.7 is a pretty tender boat. That's once thing as a racer, but if you and your girl or family want to go for a cruise, it's less than ideal. Now, someone owns a much less tender 36.7. I traded to a J/111. That said, I do like this First 36 design. 

  5. 12 minutes ago, Quickstep192 said:

    I use a creme brûlée torch in these situations. It's a much more focused flame. I also use the creme brûlée torch for burning the ends of rope. Remember, fiberglass is highly flammable. 
     

    Also, the impact from an impact driver is it the direction of rotation, it's not beating on the screw. An impact drill is beating on whatever you're drilling into. 
     

    To turn the screws, you might try doubling up nuts and tightening them together and seeing if you can turn them with a wrench. 
     

    I've heard of people using guitar strings to sever the 5200. Wrap each of the ends of the string around a dowel and work it under the plate. 

    Yeah I'm aware of the fire hazard, which is why I'm not excited about the torch. I do have a heat gun. I'll try that first, hopefully it's hot enough. I like your creme brulee torch idea. 

    Once I have heated the heck out of these screws and mashed them with an impact driver, will I need to put new ones back in or can I reuse the existing ones (assuming I don't muck up the slots)? 

    • Like 1
  6. 1 hour ago, yoyo said:

    Maybe try cracking loose the bolts from the sealant with slow and steady hits from an impact driver.   I am amazed on how many stuck items have given in to a Milwaukee M18 impact driver.

    Thanks! I'll check that out. I posted a more generic (not 111 specific) question over in Fixit and the consensus seems to be whacking it, either with an impact driver from the top or a hammer from the bottom. But beating the crap out of my deck with a hammer just seems wrong! 

  7. 9 hours ago, Zonker said:

    I had big flat bolts like that - the PO used epoxy to hold the chainplates in.

    I used a 1/2" impact gun with impact bits. And a small pinpoint butane torch to locally soften the epoxy on the bolts.

    You want something that looks like this.  Get thee to a proper tool store not a big box.

    https://www.amazon.ca/Stanley-J5444A-2-Inch-Socket-4-Inch/dp/B00209S3OO/ref=pd_lpo_1?pd_rd_i=B00209S3OO&psc=1

    image.png.33409c1ede87220860373b1586a1a6be.png

     

    Thanks for so many great replies so quickly! I just ordered this, it was available with a 3/4 inch wide bit. I also ordered a 24 inch breaker bar to go with it. The idea of wacking my deck with an impact driver or a hammer from underneath makes me pretty nervous. Since you guys say it's okay to do I'm not against it, but I'm hoping the breaker bar and bit with some heat get the job done. I really don't want to pound my deck, from above or below. But there is plenty of room below, it's in the anchor locker. 

    Would a heat gun be sufficient, or do I need to get a small torch? 

     

    9 hours ago, kiwin said:

    In addition you can probably get a blade under the plate to cut tye sealer out. Use a cheap flush cut saw and protect the deck with tape.

    Yeah I think once the bolts are out, I can use a thin blade forced between the plate and deck to cut the 5200, then clean it all up with Debond. I'm sure that's easier said than done. 

    8 hours ago, Fleetwood said:

    Use the old school approach, a brace and bit. Flate blade bits are available, often at 2nd-hand stores. I routinely use a b&b to loosen big screws (and also carefully tighten them.)  More easily controlled (by me) than power tools. Heat helps too.

    What's a B&B ??

     

  8. I need to remove this square plate, ideally without cutting up the deck. Those bolts have a 3/4 inch slot and I can't find a screwdriver anywhere near that big. We got the nuts off easily but the bolts wouldn't budge. CCF made the boat, I emailed them and they said it's bedded with either 4200 or 5200. I know about Debond, but I don't think I can get it under the plate (on the top side), and I think the bigger problem is getting the bolts out. I'll try a heat gun, but any other ideas? I think once the bolts are out the rest won't be too bad.

    Any idea where such a big screwdriver can be found? I checked local Tru Value stores, Home Depot and Lowes, and Amazon and Ebay. No luck.

     

    IMG_3514.JPG

    IMG_3512.JPG

  9. 4 hours ago, Bump-n-Grind said:

    I never installed any sort of inlet or built in 120v system for the charger. Just ran a drop cord to the boat.

    couldn't justify the weight of all that crap built into the boat. I know it aint a lot but lots of little shit adds up.

    This is how I run my charger. However, if I were to add shore power (and I'm considering it) I would go with a smart plug and a galvanic isolator. There are rules about how far from the inlet a breaker has to be, and many boats have two breakers: A main breaker close to the power inlet and then a breaker on the panel. 

  10. On 8/11/2021 at 9:42 AM, hrothgar said:

    You will ultimately want to contact J-boats and get the conversion kit. 

    As I mentioned I got the deck bracket from J Boats, it looks cool and all, but... Today a friend and I tried to install it. The existing plate has 4 big 3/4 inch bolts. We removed the four nuts from under the deck easily enough but the bolts would not budge. I contacted CCF and they advised that it's probably bedded with either 4200 or 5200, as it was meant to stay for good. 

    For those of you who have done this conversion, how did you get the existing bracket off? I know there is a chemical called Debond but I don't know how I would get it between the deck and the plate. 

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