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George Dewey

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Posts posted by George Dewey

  1. 5 hours ago, solosailor said:

    The J/111 certainly planes in wind above 20k and will hit high teens/low 20s peak boat speed when it's really howling.

    Still waiting for the right conditions to try this! It looked like that would be yesterday, but the RC cancelled the race last Thursday when the wind forecast hit 33 kts sustained and gusts about 40. 

  2. On 10/25/2021 at 4:41 PM, BobJ said:

    Does it go into one end of a belowdecks grab rail?  Maybe the cabintop grab rail stud does double duty at the other end?

    This. Mystery solved. A crew member pointed out that, if I measure properly, I see that it's a thru bolt for a handrail inside. I don't know if its aftermarket original. The leak is from a tack line fairlead. A little flex tape stopped it temporarily and I'll be rebedding it tomorrow, weather permitting. We had a downpour yesterday and I was able to get on the boat and find a few small leaks.

    • Like 1
  3. 7 hours ago, Kristian Seascape said:

    that clueless twat would be me, current CTO at Seascape. If this boat performs as planned it will be team effort & success but if the boat will under deliver or fail in whatever other way, there will be my balls hanging from the flagpole at the entrance to the yard.

    IF ???  And I would point out, if it's going to be your balls hanging from the flagpole, Kristian, well, it would seem you don't have much to lose then. 

  4. Here in Charleston we have one J/111 (mine) with one more on it's way, I think no 109s and a whole bunch of 105s. So here, people might describe fun as OD racing and want a 105. You said there are more 109s where you are, and it is a better cruiser. It also retains the headsail furler if that matters to you. The 111 has a furler but the class removed the requirement to have it in 2018. On the 111, we typically have three headsails, the J1, J2 and heavy weather jib. The 109 (I believe) typically has just one class headsail. So your expenses may be a bit lower, and not doing sail changes and using the furler might make it a bit easier to race. But I don't think you'll get a 109 to plane, and the 111 is fine for a weekend cruise, if you don't mind roughing it. Although, I did convery my ice box to a refrigerator. 

    If you want one of the two soon, well you may have to go the 109 route, unless you're looking for one brand new. I'm told that there are three new 111s inbound from France, all spoken for but one will be for sale. 


  5. 4 hours ago, steele said:

    If you figure out the leak please post here. Although I have a 109, I may also have a leak at the forward port bunk (settee berth). I do not have a screw or any other penetration anywhere close, so I suspect it came from the mast collar at the deck penetration. I recall yours was completely unsealed so it may be the culprit. 

    I'll post what I find.

  6. On 10/26/2021 at 10:59 AM, MiddayGun said:

    With no load on it, its unlikely to leak for a long time. 
    You might find that they look smarter fitted as they are then whatever epoxy you use to fill it. Gelcoat non skid repairs are tricky to get right. 

    Well sadly it may already be leaking. Inside, at the forward end of the port bunk, it looks like someone at one time mounted a pad eye, maybe for lee cloths, but it has pulled off leaving two holes. When it rains hard, a little water drips out of those holes. I need to find and fix that ASAP, before the core becomes seriously damaged. I plan to use a hose and work my way up, but every other potential leak source is below those holes. Hopefully I can use a vacuum pump to boil and suck the water out, then seal it up. Maybe bring some epoxy in as well. As of now it still feels solid so I'm optimistic.

    3 minutes ago, steele said:

    The screw may have been part of an in-hauler set up for the jib sheet. The strap is for attaching a shock cord to pull the jib car forward.

    Ah, didn't think of that. That's a good bet. 

  7. 40 minutes ago, Goblew said:

    I put backing plates on mine just to be sure.  I cross sheet most of the time except for very light winds when jib trimmer is likely to be leeward for proper heel angle and better jib trim visibility anyway.

    I was just checking for access Sunday. Good news is there is plenty of access, and most likely the deck there is solid, not cored. I planned to make some backing plates from some starboard or something. 

    I was thinking cross sheeting would probably be mostly a heavy air thing. When trimming from the high side, it seems the trimmer can't see the leach.  

  8. 47 minutes ago, Roleur said:

    Are you sure the water isn't entering through the tip of the sprit and out the open aft end?  

    If the seal was the issue the water would end up at the forward v-berth bulkhead, not the across from the head, no?  

    Well the guys told me they saw water running along the outside of the sprite, and draining off the end of it. But that's a great point; still, if this was happening then there would also be water in the vee berth as well. There might be, there is no platform so any water entering there would end up in the bilge. I wonder how much water can get into the end of the sprite. I'll try taping it up as you said, and I'll have a look at the outboard end. I don't recall there being a big hole there though. 

  9. 7 hours ago, hrothgar said:

    No idea.  My boat doesn't have that.  You also have a strap down by the end of the jib track.  We don't have that either.

    I'm guessing someone added the eye for a bungee cord or something.

    6 hours ago, BobJ said:

    Does it go into one end of a belowdecks grab rail?  Maybe the cabintop grab rail stud does double duty at the other end?

    No I don't think it does, its further forward than the handrail inside. 

    Thanks guys, I'm going to get rid of these and fill the holes with epoxy or something. Seems to me they do nothing but provide a potential leak.

  10. I'm trying to figure out what this screw thing is for on my 2011 US made J/111. It's on the top of the cabin house near and above the forward end of the lead car track. There is one on each side. I think it is leaking, and wondering if I should just get rid of it before it destroys my core.



  11. I did a slightly offshore race, about 5 hours in a moderate sea state, and we got quite a lot of water in through the bowsprite. There is a small locker across from the head, right below the end of the sprit and everything in there was drenched. Looking at the thing in the anchor locker, its not clear to me how to replace the seal. Is the seal just sandwiched between the two halves of this white block thats screwed together? These pics were taken from inside the anchor locker. It will be tricky to get some of those screws out.




  12. On 10/15/2021 at 9:33 PM, TDalbora said:

    On my 36.7 - mainsail is GPL14 Lite Skin / GPL10 Lite Skin.  4 full seasons of sailing and still looks pretty darn good.  Regarding prices - all this stuff is a moving target just now.  The internal Technora x/y scrim is very expensive and those prices have escalated over the past few years.  Depending on your sailing, maybe get very good results using the Carbon Sport in these sails - these styles have reduced fabric costs.

    Tom, out of curiosity, what percentage does the cost of materials contribute to the cost of a sail? I would think between the design and R&D costs, the sales commissions, the labor and the material landing costs (shipping), the actual sail cloth would be a relatively small contributor to the overall cost of that nifty new main... 

  13. 2 minutes ago, weightless said:

    In the context of a sit-in 16 foot trimaran with just the trolling motor connected and with the battery likely taken out of the boat for charging I wouldn't expect a lot of those loads.

    Oh, this thread has been going on a while, I forgot that was his intended use. Still, I would go with the 20A charger over the 5A. I wonder how long a 100Ahr battery will run a trolling motor? How much would a motor for a boat like this draw?

  14. 1 minute ago, Zonker said:

    The signal is VERY weak. We found the built in antenna on the Go, even sitting on deck, would give very iffy results.

    It would be easy to mount the antenna on the upper rail and do a test. Something is clearly wrong with your installation, with lots of people using Go with Predict Wind every day.

    What type of antenna cable did you use? Was it premade LM-400 type?

    100% agree the built in antenna is useless. The feedline was a custom made (by the vendor) LMR-400UF (ultra flexible), I think it's about 22 feet long. If the Go! didn't consistently report strong signal I would agree with you. 

  15. Just now, Zonker said:

    I'm thinking mounting the antenna inside a metal cage probably horribly affected performance!!

    We used Predict Wind with a Go and worked fine. We pulled GRIBs via Sailmail, tons of emails, and I've even sent and rec'd 100-200 kB Autocad drawings with it.

    Well it's hardly a metal cage. 

  16. 2 hours ago, El Borracho said:

    Hard to believe that that is a good antenna installation for the 18 cm Iridium band. I'd keep all metal much further away, and below, such an antenna.

    The Go! reported strong signal almost continuously and a few knowledgeable people told me the rails would not be an issue. I wanted to reduce the chance something would snag on it. 

  17. 10 hours ago, Winston29 said:

    Wow, this thread went in a direction I can't even pretend to comprehend.  

    But, so long as so many knowledgeable people are offering their opinions and expertise, I have a charging question regarding the battery in my original post.  The 12V, 100 Amp/Hr. LiFeP04 I ordered.   

    Would the NOCO Genius-5 smart charger, with lithium setting, be suitable for charging the battery?   The battery manufacturer said it would work, but that a 20 Amp charger would make the battery "happier".  They didn't say exactly what they meant by that, though.

    I get that the charge times would be less (5 hrs. vs 20) with the higher Amp charger, but are the increased Amps better for the battery?  Is there some advantage to charging the battery with more than 5 Amps?  

    I don't have a problem with it taking longer to charge, if that would be better for the battery over the long haul.  



    With a 100 Ahr LFP bank, the battery will be equally "happy" with a 5A or 20A charger, but I would sure go with the 20A. I'm currently using an IP67-17A from Victron. 

    • Like 2
  18. On 10/13/2021 at 9:43 AM, Elegua said:

    Thanks! Curiouser and curiouser... What do you think the reason you couldn't get the GRIBs was? Were you timing out because of the download speed? Would getting one of the better iridium products would "fix" this? I ask because I'm about to spend some $$ on something and I'd like to understand it better. Real-life feedback is highly appreciated. 

    I think the slow data rate was an issue. Still, even getting just a 3 kb route and nothing else didn't work. I didn't spend a lot of time trying to diagnose it, we were offshore and the weather was not great (meaning, it didn't work when I needed it most), so we were busy. Still, it should have worked at least to get small routes from PW. If I had the money I would look at a better system. 

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