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Vincent DePillis

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About Vincent DePillis

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  1. Question for the Class 40 knowledgeable: I have been told that some (many?) class 40s use a structural jib furler and simply lash the head of the jib to the top swivel. You need to take the sail down, you go up the mast. I have discussed doing this on my own boat (an f31 tri) with a number of knowledgeable sailors here in the PNW, and the reaction has been.... cautious. I suspect that they are being polite, while thinking that I have a screw loose. They always bring up the issue of "what happens if the furler fails, and you can't get the sail down". This worry seems to be
  2. Hi Alex-- yeah the loss of area is going to be brutal, but its time to get real about the safety issues associated racing with a group who are all over 60. I have some thoughts about a masthead cableless light air sail that would give us more power in light air, especially up wind. Means more mast and sprit mods, but hey, what is retirement for.
  3. looking to get a furling jib. Boat is a corsair f-31 trimaran. Looking for a high performance laminate. Sail will live on the furler. small furl is important to me to keep windage low when at anchor and when sailing with my heavy weather jib (sets on an inner forestay). Wondering if the new "filmless" laminates are thinner and hence give a tighter furl. or perhaps3di raw?
  4. Anybody using Lightspeed Carbon Rigging? They say that because of a more flexible resin matrix, it is tougher, and can even be used with steel hanks on a forestay. Sounds intriguing. V
  5. Can't believe that I first started this topic in August of last year. For the benefit of all you hole drillers out there, I ended up going with a solid carbide dagger bit from Panamerican Tool. Very spendy at $170, but worked well. Minimal/no tear out on either side of the hole, and gave me a sufficiently round hole without using a reamer. Dagger bit.pdf
  6. I use a lot of 80 grit 2 inch wide PSA strips. Buy a box at a time, 2.75" by 16.5". I used to get a 3m product that was purple. Seemed really good and sharp. Now fisheries tells me that the purple has been discontinued, and that the green is all they carry. The green stuff is very mediocre. Any advice on quality sandpaper?
  7. Thank you all for your responses.
  8. Hi Steve-- thanks for the specific comments regarding the Smithy. I really really only have room for one relatively small machine. Looking at the website, it seems like they have an upgraded range (the "Granite Series"). Do you remember which model you had? I am not sure about what I will make with the machine. Examples might be a new mast head crane, or mast step for a rotating mast, or a slide for my outboard. I can imagine using a fair amount of g10, delrin, aluminum. I would like to be able to do stainless or titanium, but that might be a stretch especially with a hobby scale mac
  9. I was rereading Herreshoff's "The Complete Cruiser" was struck again by Goddard's paean to his lathe, beginning "for I am quite sure that lathe has given me more enjoyment than anything I have ever had including my boats and canoes ..." Like Coridon, I have always wanted to do some metal working-- and now in my retirement, wondering if I could get some use and pleasure out of a small lathe or mill. I was thinkin a grizzly bench mill, or a Smithy, or some ancient small lathe. I kind of shy away from the idea of investing a bunch of time learning a cad cam program. Spent most of my li
  10. I noticed that my old 5 gallon piston compressor has leaked a bit of oil onto the shop floor. Made me wonder about whether I should have an oil lubricated compressor in the shop (where I do primarily composites work) at all. What's to keep the oil from contaminating the compressed air? If I use the blow gun in the shop, do I risk spreading a bit of oil everywhere? I swear I'm not just looking for an excuse to get a new compressor. Related question for vacuum pump-- all things being equal, should you prefer an oilless vacuum pump over an oil lubricated pump?
  11. Or a stubby carbon sprit with an integrated bow roller-- that you could also use to fly some of furling downwind cruising sail...
  12. Nah, no blue water for me. But I do think even cruising up to Alaska one of these could wonderful.
  13. Twisting the thread, and just wasting time Saturday morning.: I was captivated by Pete Goss' video tour of his Garcia "Pearl". His enthusiasm for the "Deriveur Integral" concept (unballasted centerboard) is infectious. But I can't help but thinking that these type of boats must be terribly slow, especially in light air. Tank like construction, small sail area, low righting moment... Sort of like Dylan's new boat, but expensive. What if you did everything you could to keep the deriveur integral concept, but make it a good sailor-- how good of a SAIL boat could you make? Think
  14. Thanks for posting this-- really interesting insight into the behaviour of the 3DI laminates. Was fascinating to read that in the damaged area the resin was "shatttered" and that you could pull the tapes apart by hand. I Seems like this kind of damage would be less likely in a sail with full length fibers. Also wondering if the shattering is a downside of the particular resin used for 3DI, or if that is a universal damage mode for resins used in sail construction. Also interesting to read about the compementary characteristics of Dyneema and the aramid. Did not know about the shri
  15. Actually, I can do 12mm holes if I use the sleave supplied with the sheave-- I was going to use the bearing direct on the axle, but 12mm bits are MUCH more available,including in tenth of a millimeter increments. So the question stands-- Drill and ream, or just drill.
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