Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

57 Kiss-ass

About SVArcturus

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Location
  • Interests
    boatbuilding & design. marine biology & oceanography

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. If you are talking a light overall staining, it generally isn't a problem. But the bad thing with stainless corrosion if it gets under the surface layer (I'm talking about a microscopically thin-layer), then it doesn't take very much surface contamination (grunge I think is the technical term) to block oxygen and still allow some water in. When this happens, the corrosion will fairly rapidly eat its way through the insides. Better alloys (for instance 316) have a stronger surface layer and heal more easily than lesser alloys (18-8 or 302-304), but they all will yield given water-but-not
  2. Stainless steel rusts wherever the surface gets scratched or abraded enough to remove the oxide protective layer AND there is something to prevent the oxygen in the air from getting to the metal "wound" to create a new oxide coating. The most common cause is something organic covering the stainless when the abrasion takes place. Organics can not only impede oxygen getting to the metal surface, they often consume the oxygen as it works its way through, making an even more effective barrier. Things like critters and bacterial slime growing on your prop shaft do this as well as food grease on
  3. Great! Thanks all. Don't want the off watch disturbed more than necessary. When there's only two of you swapping watches on long passages, relay clicking where you are sleeping is an ungood thing. It's true there's often plenty of noise, but its those erratic ones like relays activating in time with steering changes that are, to me, sleep interrupting. Guess these units don't use mechanical solenoid-type relays!
  4. I'm trying to decide where to put the ACU 100 autopilot control unit for my shiny new Raymarine tiller pilot. The network cabling that came with it works best if I locate it in the quarterberth compartment, but I don't want it there if there will be relay clicking or other noises from it when it operates. In that case, I'll get another cable long enough to reach the lazarette. Does anyone have any experience with one of these? Is it silent? Thanks
  5. Thanks Sassafras, excellent idea. I found my controllers, so have been playing with the anchor's behavior as it comes over the roller. I do need much of the available clearance over the roller to accommodate the shackle/swivel. The anchor "plow" is heavy enough that the shank end comes pretty far above the roller initially before tipping over and heading aft. Any narrowing would have to take place a fair amount fwd or aft of the roller. My eye keeps going to that highest point on the shank (because of the longer lever arm for the roll damping), I like the idea of two parts with
  6. I'm certainly hoping to escape something quite that extreme! Now, if I could just find my windlass controllers. May have to make a temporary one...
  7. BFM, That looks like it works well for your Rocna. I appreciate the thought, but in my case with the Excel I'm not sure it works. If you look at the first image of my roller setup you'll see that unlike the Rocna case, the extensions would have togo much farther out and further down, and I think would end up solidly in the path of a normally-deployed chain/anchor rope. On yours, the extension looks about the same level as the roller so the anchor line leads below it. Directly in front of the roller with the Excel is just air. To use that in my case, they would have to be made rea
  8. Panope, that's a nice looking bulwark. The slot looks like it would work great. The problem (I think) with that approach with the Excel is that the really heavy anchor toe means the anchor shank comes over the roller and keeps going up for a bit before rolling over the top. It behaves much different than my previous CQR plow. With your forward sweeping bulwark, this would probably cause no problem. Adding a piece of slotted plate that far forward on my boat might be tough. I need to play some more with the anchor behavior over the roller as it is deployed and retrieved to see w
  9. It wouldn't be a problem with the normal chain catenaries, but it is those abnormal situations that I'm thinking about. I don't often accidentally or on purpose overrun the chain, but it's not like that never happens. Maneuvering to put down the second anchor when deploying a Bahamian moor can be ticklish that way. Not to mention that the switching back and forth between anchor rodes at each tidal cycle that results during Bahamian moor use can create "nonstandard" catenaries. Basically, don't want to create a situation where an oops becomes "Oh well, I'll just make a new one". Especi
  10. Slug, I can see how this would hold the anchor shaft down, but not how it keeps it from rolling side to side. The eye strap seems to provide a pivot point in line with the one of the anchor on the roller, so how would it stop the anchor "plow" from swaying from side to side as the boat rolled? Seems like one needs to find a way to triangulate that shackle and attachment (so to speak), so it is not longer has a pivot point. Did I miss something?
  11. I am leaning toward a top-grabbing setup. The rubber Y-chocks would work great for securing the anchor, but that chain fouling thing seems all too possible. I'm still sketching things for both approaches. If I can figure one for the tip-securing that can't be chain fouled, I'd prefer that since it requires no action on our part to engage or to release. Ponder, ponder... This thread has helped that thought process considerably, though. Thanks everyone!
  12. Just realized that may be partly because the windlass is about 15' aft of the bow roller. Takes a lot of twist to cause any mayhem over that distance.
  13. Slug, I can see where a hard roller with a chain groove would force the chain to untwist (if it was), but not sure how that affects the chocking of the anchor. I've never had a chain twist problem with the present roller, so that aspects not high on my list at the moment. Ah, now we're in the meat of the problem. Any ideas on a slick way to do that?
  14. Yeah, that's the basic intention. Just wanted to see how others may have handled it before I start building stuff. Still a bit concerned about snagging chain on it, that's why I was looking for ideas. As you probably noticed, the anchor roller setups have already been modified from stock.
  • Create New...