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carcrash

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About carcrash

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    http://www.Westlawn.org
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    Cabrillo Beach YC, Waikiki YC, Transpac YC, Grenada YC, LA, NY, and Maine

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  1. I just made cleats glued to the inside of the hull, and then had them down with dyneema lashing. Easy, light. You don't need a box like with lead acid: no outgassing, no acid, nothing to leak.
  2. If there is much breeze at all, I gybe downwind, so no pole needed, just main and jib, trimmed for apparent wind on the beam. That is certainly the cheapest and fastest and safest and most comfortable approach. If its under about 5 knots true, then DDW works for me, but it's barely faster than gybing. My jib is fully battened (obviously non overlapping) with the lowest batten running from the clew to the luff perpendicular. So that lower batten puts downward pressure on the clew, and we can sail wing and wing without a pole. The price of making the jib fully battened was a few hundred dol
  3. 2.5 years since needing to buy (and of course spill) fuel, or do any diesel maintenance. Very happy. No complaints. Once you try electric, you won't go back! The decrease in NVH (noise, vibration, harshness) is tremendous. The simplification and elimination of the biggest work items (everything related to keeping a diesel engine healthy in the marine environment) makes for far more fun and much less work and expense. The huge decrease in weight is probably impossible to get from any other weight saving regimen. Lesson learned: don't plan on driving around like a motorboat. Instead, m
  4. Lift increases with the square of velocity. That is why props work better than flapping wings. Our motivation technology is fundamentally better than nature.
  5. Lift = v^2 so props kick ass
  6. Those two video so clearly show how symmetrical chutes on a tall mast are the opposite of fast. You want the bow to go up, not under, when in a puff! Put a Looooooooooong sprit on that thing!! I have always admired those boats! Really nice.
  7. Foiling should result in boats that look more like airplanes. So this is on the right track.
  8. On my Olson 40, I went with a Tides track. Great! My main is about 4 years old, and was made by my old friend Harry Pattison out of Dimension Polyant GPL Graph X (https://www.dimension-polyant.com/portfolio/gpl-graphx-en/?lang=en) which is mylar with carbon and technora. Still as new in every way, and being in California, we sail most weekends all year. Simply does not stretch, so works great in super light air up to the mid 20s we see often during summer afternoons in Hurricane Gulch here in LA. Full battens, no lazy jacks. Steve Dair set me up with a clever approach: blue/green tap
  9. Yes! This works amazingly well. Months after you posted this, we tried this approach, and now its a go-to strategy. Specific example: We were coming back from Catalina, but as the sunset, the wind went lighter and lighter, as it generally does around here. We were coming back after 5 days on batteries, no charging (still just depend upon shore power), so I did not have much stored power remaining. So we kept sailing until it really glassed off. We were near the Pt Fermin buoy, sailing pretty poor angles still using the jib and main. I turned the motor on, and set the throttle for about 40
  10. The point of those papers: while something simple does work, in fact biology has evolved amazingly efficient systems that utilize many, many degrees of freedom -- not just one or two as in the first post. It is these many degrees of freedom that provide the efficiency, not just wiggling a fin. Sculling with a single oar is substantially less efficient (but sometimes more convenient) than paddling or rowing or a propellor. Propellors are pretty efficient, especially if the diameter can be large enough. A propellor with the same diameter as a whale fin is VERY efficient.
  11. https://news.mit.edu/2007/robofin-0730 https://drexel.edu/now/archive/2012/March/Robotic-Fish-Research-Receives-ONR-Funding/ https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6477606/
  12. This is a comment to the splinter concept of electric power, not the original planetary destruction requirement of burning diesel or gas. If the boat is kept to sailboat speeds, then things work a hell of a lot better. This 10 knot to 15 knot stuff sounds slow compared to a APBA racing powerboat, and it is still a nice comfortable speed to go, but it increases the power requirements fantastically, forcing one to kill dinosaurs. In my experience: The only way electric works is if the speed is kept below 1.1 x SQRT(LWL) using feet for length and knots for speed. Due to the way bow and
  13. Oh: carbon sails means no sail changes needed, same sails for glass calm to 20 knots plus. I’m in SoCal not SF Bay, but in Hurricane Gulch where high teens are common.
  14. My Olson 40 has 6’ headroom. Faster than most mentioned here, and change hands for $50-$75k. Much lighter than nearly anything with similar waterline, means it remains inexpensive. My full sail inventory in state-of-the-art materials is far under $20k. Carbon main and lapper, screecher and a3. Last two on order, been sailing it like a Cal-20, fast and fun. Lapper means visibility under, never touches mast or shrouds, windward sheet is barberhauler. Amazing. Faster than wind speed in all directions under 6 knots with the lapper, including downwind. Lapper is fully battened so well beh
  15. @Israel Hands those are good stories! Thanks for sharing. Reminded me of another: When I was 10, so 4th grade, my parents moved to a house with 100 feet of deep water dock in the back. We had a fleet of sail and power boats. My Dad, a pilot, had a "check-out ride" defined for each boat: how to rig, put away, operate, anchor, navigate (1967, so just compass, divider, parallel rulers, charts), safety equipment (life jackets, whistle, horn, flares), everything that was appropriate for each boat. We had to pass the check-out, and then we were allowed to take the boat by ourselves. I passed al
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