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  1. most likely does! I've never seen anything but Sparcraft either. But then I'm at the same place as you
  2. Hi F, please note that there are minimum 2 different mast suppliers for J/80. - Sparcraft (extensively used by J France) - John Mast (I think at least, used by J US) They will most likely have different top pieces.
  3. Seems to me the different sailmaker tuning guides all state different lengths (even old vs new NS guide), makes me wonder how much it matters. You need a good setup/curve etc, no doubt, but maybe forestay length is not vital?
  4. My english is not good enough to understand what parts you are talking about, but the previous owner of my boat, (french made no234) milled a teeny fraction of the hole on the parts that are on the transom of the boat and placed a standard SKF plastic bushing called "PPMF 121412". I put new ones in when needed before the boat goes on the water, and have (almost) no play in the pin/transom thingy PPMF 121412 - Bushings | SKF PPMF 121412 - Bushings | SKF My box has 25 in it so I do not know how easy they are to find but they seem to be a standard part
  5. Nice. Would you please measure the distance between the holes? thanks
  6. What brand mast do you have? I believe the top and profile are different between John and sparecraft? thanks either way!
  7. Thanks! That sounds like a good plan
  8. Hi, Does anyone have pictures or advice on best mounting of a backstay flicker for the j80? I have a sparcraft mast but any guidance is appreciated. Its pretty crowded up there with both windex and masthead running light (running light and windex fastening are standard) thanks
  9. Turns out -4 rod is not all that easily available (in EU at least). Old one is reassembled and new one is on order but will not be going on the boat until next season. Core message, if you want rod, order early!
  10. New forestay ordered in -4 rod. One can separate the aluminium profile and slide them off the wire Once the forestay is out one can cut one end of the wire (in my case Dyform 4.7mm I think) and salvage the joining inside pieces of the profile. These joining parts should then be slid onto the new forestay before the second end piece is pressed. According to the rigger he will press an identical screw-terminal that I had on the old stay onto the Rod allowing me to reuse the turnbuckle at the bottom. This screw-terminal should be able to pass into the furler the same way the old ca
  11. Thanks for the answer. I am not looking to remove the furler but exchange the old wire headstay inside as that has not been done. I was forced to exchange the mast tube a few years ago due to fatigue cracks in the side vertical attachment points. When doing that I changed all standing wires except headstay. Time has come to complete the work. Either way it sounds like the rigger will need to get in the bus with tools...
  12. Looking to swap the headstay wire on my J80. It has a Harken 00 unit. Do I have to cut the wire to get it out and then have the rigger press the new wire on site? Or can I extract it from the foil go to the rigger and reinsert myself? thanks
  13. Thanks! It looks like mine without the foam....
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