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Rob

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  1. New forestay ordered in -4 rod. One can separate the aluminium profile and slide them off the wire Once the forestay is out one can cut one end of the wire (in my case Dyform 4.7mm I think) and salvage the joining inside pieces of the profile. These joining parts should then be slid onto the new forestay before the second end piece is pressed. According to the rigger he will press an identical screw-terminal that I had on the old stay onto the Rod allowing me to reuse the turnbuckle at the bottom. This screw-terminal should be able to pass into the furler the same way the old ca
  2. Thanks for the answer. I am not looking to remove the furler but exchange the old wire headstay inside as that has not been done. I was forced to exchange the mast tube a few years ago due to fatigue cracks in the side vertical attachment points. When doing that I changed all standing wires except headstay. Time has come to complete the work. Either way it sounds like the rigger will need to get in the bus with tools...
  3. Looking to swap the headstay wire on my J80. It has a Harken 00 unit. Do I have to cut the wire to get it out and then have the rigger press the new wire on site? Or can I extract it from the foil go to the rigger and reinsert myself? thanks
  4. Thanks! It looks like mine without the foam....
  5. Surprisingly different configurations. @Varan If you find the brochure please take some pictures and post. I have never seen it. Thanks
  6. It sure does. A triple breaker on the port deck reinforcement triangle underneath the pit. One button each for interior light, masthead light and a third which was used for speedo but now runs the autopilot. And of course two main circuit breakers for the battery on the port side of the main bulkhead
  7. Yup. Cheap tricolour using an even cheaper cable that corrodes. At least the sparcraft masted EU version does. Even has a circuit breaker specifically for it on the panel.
  8. May I ask if you are running the stock mast head nav light? Mine is on a 3 year old mast and I (quite rightly) got yelled at by a cruise ship on the VHF (handheld) this summer since it did not work during an overnight sail crossing a commercial shipping lane.... Looking for recommendation for alternatives... Thanks
  9. I have J80 234 built in France. It developed a leak from the starboard winch attachment this summer. Previous owner changed to Harken 35.2 winches and did the reinforcement. I removed the plywood reinforcement and found a block of core foam. Weird as it may seem both the plywood and the foam has holes from attachment screws for original winch. My belief is that the previous owner first installed the foam and plywood and at a later date changed the winches. I would like to get back to as close to original as possible and unless the reinforcement is necessary remove it.
  10. Rob

    J/80 sprit

    I gave it a shot and sanded. picture is just wet 120 grit. lamination is not really “picture perfect”, but hey, boat is 21 years old, carbon was in it’s infancy
  11. I did this but added a piece of automotive cardoor rubber molding to not have the aluminimum edge hit the rudder. My 11 year old is the designated driver in harbors and i would not want him to feel bad about damaging the rudder.
  12. Rob

    J/80 sprit

    So, mine is overdue for a coat of paint. Anyone have sanded all the way down to the carbon and clearcoated it? pics? Thanks
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