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About SoAPieceOfStringWalksIntoABar...

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  • Birthday 11/01/1968

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    N E MO

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  1. Also, I recall DBSS's compression post started going through the hull bottom. Make sure you add some beef around the bottom of f89 to distribute the load. Don't use 6-8 oz pw tape for the chines. 12 or 17 oz biax in and out if you can. (One boat had some cloth tears along the chine).
  2. A few boats are going to Brookville Lake, IN over Memorial weekend. BLSA doesn't have anything going on, so we'll just do our own thing- sail each other's boats, some rabbit starts, tune up, and generally goof around. Camping near the lake. All i550's within driving range are welcome, and tire kickers too.
  3. I drew up the rotated jigs for him, they're posted on the Class site. Found it: http://i550class.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=110
  4. Ceiling, actually, is the word for the fore and aft strips on the inside of the ribs, often installed with a slight gap for air flow, and should be tapered toward the ends of the boat like carvel planking would be. Usually a lighter wood than the outer planking is used, such as cedar, spruce, or cypress (in North America).
  5. No, no rule probs at all. Some of those shapes look familiar, but you've done a great job making them yours! You've made a great looking boat. I like having the jib trimmer sit up against the cabin, so the cabin lip wouldn't work there for me. I wonder how it would look if that frame leaned forward above the deck line? -then, the "Luca Brenta lip" (handy for upside down cam cleats) wouldn't push that crew so far aft?
  6. The basics, 1/4" fir marine plywood has just 3 plies, weighs the same as meranti and more than okoume (both are 5-ply), and costs the same or more. And being rotary cut fir it's tough to finish smoothly. If it's all you can get, you can probably make it work, just be ready to deal with some potato chip type curling. Plan to add some extra, small stringers and budget some extra fairing goo and sanding time.
  7. I'm at 45 minutes (alone) in the lot, then 20 minutes in the water. First time, double that...
  8. Cool! Jeff mentioned they planned to mod the boat for the EC, sounds like they're on it. Based in Nashville(?) I think. Found his site: http://storyhouse.org/boat/
  9. On SA, yellow lines never lie. This looks exactly like 1.25", wouldn't ya say?
  10. . ...and how's that measurement at the station 90' fwd of transom---'Carbon' is a full 5/8'' from 'plan',,so 3/8'' beyond the tolerance...measured on 2 visits,,using a straight-edge under the boat. .......Is Carbon the only boat that doesn't make this tolerance?? You can look at Ben's build pics (and a dozen other builders) to see that there has never been a problem getting the hull bottoms to meet the frames. It's been a couple years now, but I think I recall we checked CO's bottom at 90" and it was within a 1/16" of plan- every thing we checked had this accuracy is my recollection.
  11. Since you asked... "Designed hull shape" from chine to chine is the curve defined by the plans, which is not a straight line. When I measured CO's tranny it was exactly to the plan, except a little 1/16" lump right at the center where some glass overlaps occurred and weren't faired out. So well within the 1/4" allowance... Good luck with your cat herding!
  12. Yeah, I'm thinking of a smaller version of the Hupe Haus, just to cover the boat and not needing to provide workspace inside. I have the boat in my car garage now, so getting it out of there has to be financially equivalent to the pain of having a cold icy truck left outside. "Winter" is something I'm still pretty new at, so I'm not sure how much hassle an icy truck will be, and whether it justifies spending bucks to kick the boat outside and cover it.
  13. That doesn't sound fun at all- hoping for some less deconstructive ideas! ...although turning it over gets me a chance to finish blocking off the bottom. Still have the ghosts of those squiggly pencil witness lines...
  14. Winter outdoor storage- what are folks doing? I've kept the boat garaged till now, but I'm thinking I want the square footage back in my shop. My boat's deck isn't at all water proof- I get a puddle inside about as deep as the amount of rain that falls. I have a deck behind the house I can park under to keep the wind and snow restrained, but it's not water proof. I'm trying to come up with something slicker than "throw a tarp over it". I know folks go a little nuts with bigger boats, with tube/hoop structures and shrink wrapped tents and all. I want a waterproof cover and air circulation,
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