Jump to content

Blur

Members
  • Content Count

    1,160
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

138 F'n Saint

About Blur

  • Rank
    Super Anarchist
  • Birthday 08/02/1966

Contact Methods

  • AIM
    peterinserve
  • Website URL
    http://www.blur.se

Profile Information

  • Location
    Sweden
  • Interests
    #sailing

Recent Profile Visitors

10,723 profile views
  1. Last night, north of Sicily in Rolex Middle Sea Race...
  2. Thanks. Hadn't seen it until now. Now ramping up for Rolex Middle Sea Race in a few weeks, and then the boats ships to Ft Lauderdale for our US adventures.
  3. This could be the reason you have water coming in I laminated a note that's useful offshore as well "Keel down, mast up" On the partners, ideally they spread the load equally on deck/collar. Euro boats has a full "collar" in hard foam that slides on to the mast and starts 10 mm above the deck fitting and ends 10 mm below the deck in the cabin. Bigger version of the J/80 part below. Attention to details.
  4. Were you sure that the boat was completely dry (i e lifted all the floorboard, and dried out every small compartment). It's not uncommon to have a "dry boat" and then heel over to find water was stuck inside the structure and everywhere else. Like the damn nav seat From what you're describing you might have another issue. Not sure if US and Euro boats are different, but our sprit is almost dry. Maybe 2-3 liters after a 600 nm race. We even made a cover to put over the sprit for really rough upwind races as well as sealing the anchor locker with Sikaflex (collects lots of water in big sea
  5. Will do a proper writeup, but hard to beat "fun per hours spent preparing". Not really a handicap racer (but we've done very well in a couple of races)... and looking at the thread above; a real "kelp collector"
  6. On the original post, I would't worry about what the J/121 is doing. Very different boat. If you're really 100% on target (it took us a few seasons to get there) with resonable pointing, you would do very well on most fleets. Best way is to actually measure your tacking angles on the tracks after a training session or, race, to figure out how much you are off. Then figure out how to improve your pointing ability and still be at target speed.
  7. I think it help to see this as two different things (as a jib trimmer). First sheeting angle, and second sail shape. Naturally, if you're just adjusting the infucker you will get a rounding shape, but as a trimmer you should be able to get the exact same sail shape at 6 degrees sheeting angle as you had with 8 degrees. Many moving parts On the spreader marks, it's a good thing to get the boat lit up according to the tuning guides first and then goi tighter. It took some seasons to get there, but now we are well inboard both on deck and on the spreaders. Again, I think it helps to separat
  8. Just a few thoughts, target speed. Not sure if yours is updated, but in 12 knots we go for 7.20 @ TWA 38 - not sure what's the VMG is but easy to calculate- things that help pointing #1: infucking. We're probably one degree further inboard than the tuning guide. As long as you can maintain target speed, just go for it. I would say that in flat see we're +10cm inboard of the handrail. See below. things that help pointing #2: more backstay things that help pointing #3: getting the boom up and slightly to windward. Rudder angle at 3-4 degrees leads to better pointing.
  9. We're displaying real time data on the mast, so that's a big part of communication between jib-trim, main and me as helmsman. Much easier to know where we are without turning our heads to look at the backstay and easier to communicate around distinct values. We then analyze race-logs to get baseline values, that we know are fast. Perfect at the leeward mark when the main trimmer can be in acceleration mode for the correct TWS:
  10. Standard fitting on euro J/111s :
  11. I vote for 6 x M4 x 12mm Hex Socket Button Screws in Titanium + a small amount of Sikaflex just around the screw. Will help with vibrations + add extra safety. You want to remove the bracket before removing the rig. Properly done this will work for many seasons.
  12. Give it a season. I think I manage just fine solo on the J/111... frustrating at times but you'll learn some techniques that makes it easier. 90% of the time it looks better than what the full crew can manage Our main is on cars (Antal). Process: blow outhaul (to not put strain on sail when boom falls), blow halyard, and then get proper alternate folds by standing in front of the mast. Always start on the same side (ex starboard). Then get the whole sail to leeward and grab 3 sail-ties. It should be fairly easy to replicate the folds at the aft end of the boom. The first 2-3 folds a
×
×
  • Create New...