CazzaRanda

tighten will push the wedges down. Keel will still move a bit.

They don't need to be tight, they are just pushing the delrins down to reduce lateral movement. You are correct, the thread is only 1-2 inches long. We drysailed the boat for a few years, so you can raise the keel in the water. We never used the tripod to raise the keel though, always a hoist.

If you haven't done an inspection of the keel box yet, it's a good idea to do one. When the keel is up, it's a good idea to clean and paint the inside of the box and the top sides of the keel trunk.

There is no kelp cutter in your boat. The kelp cutter slot has been professionally filled. That water enters (typically above 10 knots of boat speed) from the small space between the keel and the hole in the hull. The next time you haul the boat, seal that space with a bit of silicon. The cork is from a bottle of prosecco (it has been there at least 8 years...), and keeps the splashes down once the silicon is gone. You have a 2000 pounds bulb 7 feet under water. In short chop the top of the keel trunk (that is about 10 feet from the bulb) budges a bit left to right. Consider that, depending on how much you heel, the torque on that point probably gets up to 6,000 pounds*feet

I found this one, but it might be outdated...

Right, the bars solved the wear issues for the spi halyard. The second external spi sheave was rigged with a cheap halyard, as safety and for the few coastal races we did. It saved the day at least once when we "sky-ed" the inner spi halyard... :-)

funny, if I remember well your mast has a similar mod on the spi exit for the same reason. Not the whole struct at the bottom, but two rods welded to the sides of the sheave to prevent chafe. I think it worked because I forgot about it after we did it many years ago...

When you are up inspect the 6 rivets of the tang where the top of the forestay is attached. There's a lot of load there, especially on the upper 2s.

These are the best pics I could find. Not much, but it will give you an idea of what you'll find up there. We used either the main or the spi halyard, using the jib halyard as a backup. 2:1 in sf bay is a must to reduce the load on the clutches (that are already upgraded on your boat).

...let me try. That is a fast boat?

Classic FT10 forum shitfight... never thought I'd be missing one of those, but 14 years later I actually do. Must be the lockdown... Cazza!

Thanks! I'm sure DAMAN IS SMILING SOMEWHERE! (and he's doing it in all caps... :-)

All is well Filippo... I was indeed on board for that first sail with my camera and cheesy music too :-)

It appears that the threads are still in the forum, but they don't seem to be searchable. Here are some good ones: http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?/topic/18839-standing-rigging/ http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?/topic/21804-window-poll/ http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?/topic/33689-pictures-only/ http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?/topic/18363-logos-make-yours-and-post-it/

...and here is the story narrated by Bob: http://www.ft10class.info/soecs/designer-s-comments