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nmanno

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About nmanno

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  1. On the battery, I am trying out a chinese manufacturer, so I'll keep a close eye on the battery. Less weight, more power and way cheaper....Lifepo are bulky and heavy so I am going for Lipos. I've been handling lipos for many years now so with the right set-up it should work fine and be safe.
  2. Thanks for that. I thought about it afterwards that I could indeed run the 12V loads directly from a DC converter. I thought of having the 12V battery in case something goes wrong with the 48V battery so I still have a bit of back-up but you are right, not really needed. On solar vs wind, I don't have that much real estate for solar. It's a racing trimaran so there is always a lot of apparent wind whilst sailing. yes, at the beginning I was planning on charging the battery at home but considering it's 30kg and I am on a swing mooring, I thought, why not leave it onboard and get
  3. Hi guys, I am looking for the views from some of you electric gurus. I am planning an electric set-up for my boat. It will be a small torqeedo outboard (cruise 4) with a 48V 150Ah lithium bank. I won’t use the motor much, just to get in and out of my mooring. The electronics using NMEA 2000 + nav lights and interior lights will run on 12V and I am planning on using a small 10Ah lithium battery for that. I don’t have a galley, head etc....so not many appliances. I will also have some small solar panels 2x55W (I know I won’t go far with that) to top-up the batteries during t
  4. Hi guys, I have a broken 20m long Marstrom rotating wing mast that broke in 2 with some delamination where the breakage occurred. It was used on a 40ft racing trimaran. The breakage occurred between the 2 spreader pairs. I haven’t measured it but I would guess at c.8m height. The spreaders are damaged and the carbon standing rigging is shot. Apart from the breakage the tubes are in decent shape. I have the drawings of the mast when new. I can also send pictures. The mast is currently stored in Hong Kong and will be cut into pieces and disposed off if no-one cares. Whoever
  5. Any chance you could brave the harsh UK winter and post a picture of that honeywell sensor installation?
  6. Yes, the mast was Marstrom and was a very nice one, the only thing I wasn't a fan of, was the 2 spreader rig (too many stays, too many weak points). I believe the diamond stay gave up and hence the mast broke. I looked at the boat for a while too before making the leap. I am indeed planning on making small changes to the boat to be able to use it shorthanded for short offshore passages (4 days max but that should go far with that boat!). I am quite excited to have this project on hand but I would love to live in a better place where there are many yards that know what they do so that I
  7. No, we didn't havea backstay or checkstay...the mast was a weird concept with double spreaders and double diamonds and side stays.
  8. We were sailing in 20-25knts of wind on a reach. We had 3 reefs in the the J3, we were playing it safe as still getting to grips with the tri. We heard a loud bang and then a crack and the mast came down in 2 pieces (pretty much in the middle). Our assumption is a carbon diamond stay broke (first bang). Why that happened, unknown though as it was 2 years old, kept in a storage outside of sunlight.
  9. Well, it was a blast as long as it lasted. First outing we did 23knts and that was taking it easy as I'd never sailed on such a large and performance multihull. You get used to the speed but I was still happy everytime I would come back to its mooring after a day of sailing without incident. The mast broke though on the the 5th test sail....and since then I've been crying and sorting out insurance requests (already 6months!)...and I need to order a new mast this week. Since the boat won't be operational for a while, I am also going to do a small refit to have a proper access to the i
  10. Hi guys, thanks for all the pieces of feedback. I have spoken to 2 mast builders and they both recommended the Antal product. Simple, relatively cheap and works well apparently. Also, the swan 50 use it, I assume if Swan uses them, it must be ok. I like the fact that the lock is de-facto at the bottom of the mast most of the time and hence can be serviced regularly. I'll probably go with that unless I hear otherwise.
  11. Thanks and no, I didn't but just had a look at it now. I am surprised they are not making more noise about their product as they are really good on locks generally.
  12. This is so simple and genius! I love the simplicity. Whilst it won't reduce the compression load, I tend to like this KISS approach. So to be clear, on the picture above, you have the 2.1 mainsheet and 2 loops, The main halyard is composed of many such sections and so when you take a reef, you just go to the next loop and put that on the mast "hooks" and re-attach the cunningham and that's it? What are all the other mast hooks one can see on your pictures? Is that for the foresails?
  13. Thanks for that insight. I contacted Southern Spars for my new mast but they don't ("want to") do them for my trimaran and so sent me to Hall who suggested to install an Antal track with locking car.
  14. Sorry I should have stated that. It's a 40ft carbon trimaran that can go offshore. Unfortunately the Selden part won't make it.
  15. Hi all, I am searching the internet and asking around with mast/sail makers but the world of halyard locks is a bit opaque so I am seeking your advice/views. I have a racing multihull and I am getting a new mast for the platform. The previous set-up (Marstrom mast) was a rotating/canting wingmast with all the sails on locks. The headsails were on karver swiveling locks which work fine and I'll use a similar set-up. For the main, Marstrom put a lewamr jammer at the top of the mast with a trip line going to the base of the mast. This set-up didn't work great as the main halyard had a t
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