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sailthebay26

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14 Whiner

About sailthebay26

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    Anarchist
  • Birthday 04/26/1981

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  • Location
    Newport, RI
  • Interests
    Offshore and shorthanded sailing

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  1. Just put a layer of glass down and then bond a piece of aluminum or stainless down. This is how mast tracks on Hall rigs were built for years. The glass isolates the carbon and then tefgel isolates the fastener. I would recommend tapping only the plate and let the carbon be a thru hole as it doesn't hold threads well. You also are less likely to break the tap as you transition from carbon to aluminum.
  2. I was a designer of carbon rigging for 10 years. The best option on high chafe is rod, if you are going to go the carbon route and not Grand Prix Future FIbres EC6 is the safest hands down. All carbon rigging suffers from chafe, carbon chafe tubes I found to be the best option. Technora doesn't work so well on V1s or headstays with high speed lines passing by.
  3. Check out Rockwest for carbon tubes. They may even have some joints too, I can't remember. You should be able to get any size tube you like.
  4. You may be seeing more top and bottom because of mast tip width. The side by side requires a much larger sheave box and laminate, even more so if you are running locks due to bullet diameter. I know on a lot of Hall rigs (based on the drawing that looks to be one based off line colors/ layers) the side by side has a huge cutout to make it work. Also I am not a fan of the ferrules especially on code sails as the sharp bend causes more problems. I would go with a the cage style chafe guards instead of the ferrule. Also look into adding the J4 lock as southern has a nice one that was used on
  5. I've had great luck with the Helly Aegir kit just note the bibs are a bid warm
  6. I added a few notes as well to the list. There is a kid up here that has the USMMA boat on loan. Its an older proto but will give you a feel for the boat. They are very addicting and I still want one after not sailing one for about 8 years.
  7. That's going to be alot of work and may still end up as a noodle. Most of these rigs with all the aft rigging are needed due to the lack of fore/aft stiffness. You may be able to tension the headstay with swept spreaders but they are going to need to be 20+ degrees in order to work. This sweep will require need chain plate locations further aft and possibly additional structure in the boat to take the loads. You may still end up with a bunch of midpanel deflection or compression failure of the mast butt due to the required tension. As for the question about cathedral rigs usually the cap
  8. I was able to buy the student version of rhino with proof I was taking a class with udemy.com . If I remember correctly the class cost me like 20 bucks
  9. How about drill the holes bigger and insert a dowel in place with epoxy or wood glue? Then small pilot hole and install the screws.
  10. One other point to keep in mind on this job is the stroke and force that the solid vang can handle. Usually the off the shelf vangs have about 6-8 inches of throw depending on the size. You should look into the open and closed length as a major factor to the location on the boom
  11. Pull the rig and get it in horses. The amount of time you will spend in the air fighting it will not be worth the cost. Also this will give you a chance to give the whole rig a once over. You aren't going to have the control to trim the track off if needed while up the rig
  12. That's Gold Diggers stablemate and the owners "IRC" boat if I remember correctly. He was a super nice guy and sure loved his 44s
  13. With the sail living on a furler I would look into the 3di raw. One of the toughest sails but usually sees the most damage when on deck being folded and put below. I would add an external snorkel/ sock to cover and protect the sail while at anchor instead of sewing some type of uv on the leach
  14. I looked at all the North stuff this week. Originally going in I was skeptically but the stuff looks well thought out and surprisingly light. I really like how the smock used neoprene instead of latex seals. In my experience the neoprene is more than enough and way more comfortable. Pricing seems to be in the same as Musto
  15. I've been a fan of Karver and KZ furlers. Note spin furlers are usually top down while code zero are bottom up
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