Jump to content

PeterRoss

Members
  • Content Count

    249
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

28 Suckup

About PeterRoss

  • Rank
    Anarchist

Profile Information

  • Location
    Rhode Island

Recent Profile Visitors

3,394 profile views
  1. He takes risks everytime he touches a boat. Your comment about polyester does not apply. OP noted epoxy was used some time ago. In his case there is nothing wrong with gel coat over epoxy. Any "Professional" who runs away from that repair due to inexperience uses the term "Professional" lightly.
  2. Bullshit!! You are clueless. Sometimes, your inane rants are hilarious because they are so far out in left field. That collection of words is far from constructive. It's mean spirited ignorance at best and it's nonsense. OP asked a question. Some replied with working solutions to his question. You........typed bullshit as usual.
  3. Wash it down with water, water only. I wipe first with cloth towel and warm water to remove most of the blush. You can feel the surface difference right away. Next, scrub with a soft scrub pad. Then sand with 80 grit without goofball kneeling to the gel coat gods or leaps of faith. It simply works and if done properly will not fall off in 6 months. Mixing Duratec additives works beautifully but that doesn't answer the gel coat over epoxy question. I was a disbeliever and never bought into the water only blush removal, until I actually tried it. Do not use soapy water. Nice clean bottled
  4. Wasn't that boat used to convert the buyer's Frac 29 into a Masthead 29? I cleared a space for Hustler John......... The boat would look great with light blue accent on the port bow
  5. https://www.superyachttimes.com/yachts/danneskjold
  6. @Karukera The water enters through the vertical delrin holes. It can also find its way in some of those cap holes, not sure how but it's water, it will find a way in. Laying keel on its side let's any water run out the delrin holes. The vacuum chamber hose can pull through during holes also, tape other holes. Don't recall thread info. The reason I use carbon is the keel strut is carbon. Other glass materials have a negative expansion rate to carbon. Carbon and water both expand in cold. My hopes were to keep enough water out to avoid ice overcoming the carbon trailing edge. Are the
  7. @Karukera You have the keel out of the boat? Kelp cutter groove does not look horrible,, very typical.. Plastic putty spreaders fit in the kelp cutter groove nicely with cutter removed or raised above damage. Use the putty spreader as a dam. Fill damage with putty on both sides at same time. If the repair is longer, find something similar in groove thickness to use as a dam. Putty spreaders release well. I put them in thin side out. It you have the Keel out, lay it on its side to let water pour out. Lay it on both sides, water finds voids to hide in. I've stored them upside d
  8. @WCB, too kind @Karukera, Water does get in keel, freezing, expanding and splitting keel big danger. Getting the water out completely may never happen. It's in the bulb, in the strut and you are going to have to live with it. You just need to control the level somewhat. I highly recommend investing in a resin trap https://www.ebay.com/itm/224556750819?hash=item3448a017e3:g:xXAAAOSweUhhCB9M and vacuum pump https://www.ebay.com/itm/132268632855?hash=item1ecbd32b17:g:AEMAAOSwEm1gFBi9 Do not buy the pump/ chamber kit. Those are for degassing and will not pull wat
  9. Hi Karukera, As asked above, any photos of the issues? I use a multitool with most thin blade available. This is a very surgical effort. Drive the blade into the trailing edge using little to no force pushing until you hit the void.. You want that blade to cut a clean gap. It's easy to push the teeth past the damage into the void. This pries the halves apart. You want to "hog" (evacuate) material out. I'm not sure if that term translates. The goal is to create a gap between halves without while leaving outside skins in faired plane. Pressure on the inside can cause that cra
  10. "Good sailors who keep hitting shit!" ECSA should consider promoting Seamanship. It is desperately needed given the high number of collisions. The MC was on an ECSA handicapper's boat. They sailed blindly into the path of a starboard tack boat while milling around the starting line on port tack. There was a collision and injury. The port tack boat had nobody looking to leeward and apparently cried victim on Facebook, as predicted. How can you impress the importance of seamanship when bloated egomaniacs think they own all points of sail?! Seriously, "they" are going to kill
  11. "They are all good sailors" https://youtu.be/FTD0atfJm9w
  12. Beat me to it. Raising board isn't exactly the same as making keel choice AFTER valid certificate is issued, among other deplorable details. One (raising board) is allowed in certain rules the other is intent to commit fraud, aka intentional cheating. Involving others in the scheme becomes a conspiracy. Karma tends to be a bitch.
  13. George (J) lift the lid look inside that anchor locker above and outboard the pole tube. Whoever built the 109's had a bad habit of neglecting to glass the hard to access areas. That is, no attempt whatsoever to seal the tube yielding large gaps at hull/flange. On port tack the anchor locker fills and doesn't drain so fast. Water enters the boat at the gap behind the tube. In one case it ran aft to BMax and heavily stained the cherry ceiling strips in main cabin. The owner was in disbelief the interior damage came from a gap the size of your fist in the anchor locker. Those 109 style anc
×
×
  • Create New...