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Tomfl

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About Tomfl

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    Anarchist

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  • Location
    Inner Solar System
  • Interests
    photography and skin/SCUBA diving

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  1. I got interested in possibility getting a Weta and went to the Weta forum web site and read the post about what to look for in a used Weta. There seems to be several different versions built in different places and the QC is not the same for all of them. So are there any particular hints about which years are the best bang for the buck and which ones to avoid. The first on I will likely look at is a 2010 model but if I should run from that year it will save me a half days drive to look at it.
  2. Most but not all allow the stays to remain in place with no action on the users part when the amas are folded from what I remember; it was sorta later development. Ian had this warning Highfield Levers 1. There may be a danger of fatigue with long term reliance on highfield levers alone (where fitted, typically on the rotating mast boats) to support mast while folded for an extended period. If any bending loads are generated on the lever, and the boat can move around slightly, then the lever could eventually be damaged from the mast swaying sideways. This could put alternatin
  3. Seawinds don't have a rotating mast. Truth be told I feel much more comfortable on my Seawind than my Prindle with a rotating mast; in fact I really don't mess around that much with the controls to rotate the mast on the Prindle. Not trying to talk the OP out of buying a beach cat but I would not expect much shared skill from sailing one once he got on a bigger boat.
  4. I have a Prindle 18-2 with wings and also have a Seawind 1000 with one meter sugarscoops added. Truth be told the Seawind tacks faster than the Prindle, I suspect more due to the Seawind weighing a lot more so it has more momentum. There is really no shared skill set. First off it is almost impossible to flip a cat like the Seawind (or similar boats) while beach cats commonly flip multiple times a day if sailed on the edge. One of the biggest skills (IMHO) on cruising boats is anchoring and it is somewhat rare to anchor a beach cat. Raising and lowering sails on a beach cat is mostly done
  5. Good point about a Dragonfly maybe being a better choice due to the air draft. I was thinking about a well priced C36 I saw in Germany around the first of the year but COVID-19 put the end to that.
  6. Just did that. I know Don from way back and he is a good guy.
  7. To answer some of the questions it is a 2008 Farrier F-25A according to the ad. I have spent the last five minutes trying to load the page the ad is on and got one 503 error. The boat is listed at Windcraft and the main page does load. Thanks for the information, I may drive down to look at the boat after the Thanksgiving rush, but I hate driving in Florida with all the snowbirds here. Just talked to Don at Windcraft and it is Duracore.
  8. Found an ad for a home build C25 (composite, not wood) rigged with a C28 mast and sail. I have always been under the impression that the center of effort of the sails should be directly above the center of lateral resistance for the hull(s) for a well balanced boat so I have to wonder about this. Not to mention I thought a C25 was designed to not have a boom. Also have to wonder about raising and lowering the mast and how it is, or should be, attached. This stuff is well above my pay grade so any help welcome.
  9. Sounds like the same boat. Last I knew it was still for sale. I spent a lot of time on the phone with the owner but never saw it in person. I got the impression the trailer really needed work to make it road worthy. I am not adverse to cosmetic work. Talking on the phone I could not get a good feel for how the rudder and sugar scoop were working. One thing that kinda worried me was that the owner indicated it took two people to fold/unfold the amas. I have always been a big fan of fboats because it was quite possible for a single person to put them together and take them apart. It
  10. When I am on a ball I use two lines each attached to the cleat on a bow, run through the eye splice on the ball and then attached to the cleat on the other bow. I also attach a line to the Sampson post run through the eye cleat on the ball and attach the other end to the Sampson post; with slack so the lines attached to the cleats on the bows take the load. On the other hand at anchor I use one line with an eye hook in the middle attached to the chain with the bitter ends cleated off on each bow. Not sure how I could attach two lines to the anchor chain without two eye hooks or somethi
  11. I have always subscribed to 'their country, their rules'. Thing is what you are calling "Mr Cleans anchor chain snubber sometimes called a stopper." is what I have always called a bridle, which I thought was used to take the strain off the windlass. Is there some difference between Mr Cleans anchor chain snubber sometimes called a stopper and a bridle I am missing.
  12. NOOBIE QUESTION ALERT. I thought a snubber was a fairly short length of rubber like stuff that you put on the bridle to absorb shock. This is a pix I stole off the internet showing what I call snubbers that I use. Maybe I am wrong about what a snubber is, but West Marine and Amazon call them snubbers. Feel free to correct me.
  13. Maybe I should have mentioned it earlier but the setup I use can include snubbers if I think they are justified. The bridle I use is maybe a little over 30 feet with the hook in the middle. The bitter ends are secured on cleats on each bow of my cat which has a beam of 19'5". I have tape about four feet from both the bitter ends and put snubbers on each side. The thing is I frequently adjust one side of the bridle or the other to get the bows to better face directly into the wind. Often I basically day sail when I cruise; like 50-100 miles from sun up till enough before sundown to feel co
  14. If I was in NZ I would be interested.
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